Subversive Woodworking sw_wiki https://subversivewoodworking.co/wiki/index.php?title=Subversive_Woodworking MediaWiki 1.36.1 first-letter Media Special Talk User User talk Sw Sw talk File File talk MediaWiki MediaWiki talk Template Template talk Help Help talk Category Category talk 0 1 1 2021-06-25T06:02:21Z MediaWiki default 2 wikitext text/x-wiki <strong>MediaWiki has been installed.</strong> Consult the [https://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Special:MyLanguage/Help:Contents User's Guide] for information on using the wiki software. == Getting started == * [https://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Special:MyLanguage/Manual:Configuration_settings Configuration settings list] * [https://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Special:MyLanguage/Manual:FAQ MediaWiki FAQ] * [https://lists.wikimedia.org/mailman/listinfo/mediawiki-announce MediaWiki release mailing list] * [https://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Special:MyLanguage/Localisation#Translation_resources Localise MediaWiki for your language] * [https://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Special:MyLanguage/Manual:Combating_spam Learn how to combat spam on your wiki] 5702e4d5fd9173246331a889294caf01a3ad3706 2 1 2021-06-25T13:14:29Z Tariq 3 test wikitext text/x-wiki <strong>MediaWiki has been installed.</strong> Consult the [https://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Special:MyLanguage/Help:Contents User's Guide] for information on using the wiki software. == Getting started == * [https://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Special:MyLanguage/Manual:Configuration_settings Configuration settings list] * [https://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Special:MyLanguage/Manual:FAQ MediaWiki FAQ] * [https://lists.wikimedia.org/mailman/listinfo/mediawiki-announce MediaWiki release mailing list] * [https://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Special:MyLanguage/Localisation#Translation_resources Localise MediaWiki for your language] * [https://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Special:MyLanguage/Manual:Combating_spam Learn how to combat spam on your wiki] ==Tool List==*Saws ** Crosscut saw **Backsaw *Planes **Fore plane **Try plane 6fb300e994d3cf726114a0686dc790d1a4751a4a 3 2 2021-06-25T13:16:27Z Tariq 3 test2 wikitext text/x-wiki <strong>MediaWiki has been installed.</strong> Consult the [https://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Special:MyLanguage/Help:Contents User's Guide] for information on using the wiki software. == Getting started == * [https://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Special:MyLanguage/Manual:Configuration_settings Configuration settings list] * [https://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Special:MyLanguage/Manual:FAQ MediaWiki FAQ] * [https://lists.wikimedia.org/mailman/listinfo/mediawiki-announce MediaWiki release mailing list] * [https://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Special:MyLanguage/Localisation#Translation_resources Localise MediaWiki for your language] * [https://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Special:MyLanguage/Manual:Combating_spam Learn how to combat spam on your wiki] === Tool List === ==== Saws ==== * Crosscut saw * Backsaw ==== Planes ==== * Fore plane * Try plane e6d8b720d01dcb60c45a0226043f58bdda554536 4 3 2021-06-25T13:17:57Z Tariq 3 update heading structure wikitext text/x-wiki <strong>MediaWiki has been installed.</strong> Consult the [https://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Special:MyLanguage/Help:Contents User's Guide] for information on using the wiki software. == Getting started == * [https://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Special:MyLanguage/Manual:Configuration_settings Configuration settings list] * [https://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Special:MyLanguage/Manual:FAQ MediaWiki FAQ] * [https://lists.wikimedia.org/mailman/listinfo/mediawiki-announce MediaWiki release mailing list] * [https://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Special:MyLanguage/Localisation#Translation_resources Localise MediaWiki for your language] * [https://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Special:MyLanguage/Manual:Combating_spam Learn how to combat spam on your wiki] == Tool List == === Saws === * Crosscut saw * Backsaw ==== Planes ==== * Fore plane * Try plane 35ff73bca39badee1d0af75feeb0c45436e558cc 5 4 2021-06-25T13:18:59Z Tariq 3 update heading structure wikitext text/x-wiki <strong>MediaWiki has been installed.</strong> Consult the [https://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Special:MyLanguage/Help:Contents User's Guide] for information on using the wiki software. == Getting started == * [https://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Special:MyLanguage/Manual:Configuration_settings Configuration settings list] * [https://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Special:MyLanguage/Manual:FAQ MediaWiki FAQ] * [https://lists.wikimedia.org/mailman/listinfo/mediawiki-announce MediaWiki release mailing list] * [https://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Special:MyLanguage/Localisation#Translation_resources Localise MediaWiki for your language] * [https://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Special:MyLanguage/Manual:Combating_spam Learn how to combat spam on your wiki] == Tool List == === Saws === * Crosscut saw * Backsaw === Planes === * Fore plane * Try plane 780989237086a8c2d221d3c7b5410049fb3c4e3e 6 5 2021-06-25T13:22:38Z Tariq 3 Add technique section test wikitext text/x-wiki <strong>MediaWiki has been installed.</strong> Consult the [https://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Special:MyLanguage/Help:Contents User's Guide] for information on using the wiki software. == Getting started == * [https://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Special:MyLanguage/Manual:Configuration_settings Configuration settings list] * [https://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Special:MyLanguage/Manual:FAQ MediaWiki FAQ] * [https://lists.wikimedia.org/mailman/listinfo/mediawiki-announce MediaWiki release mailing list] * [https://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Special:MyLanguage/Localisation#Translation_resources Localise MediaWiki for your language] * [https://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Special:MyLanguage/Manual:Combating_spam Learn how to combat spam on your wiki] == Tool List == === Saws === * Crosscut saw * Backsaw === Planes === * Fore plane * Try plane == Techniques == === Course Crosscut === For cutting boards roughly to length, when the ends are going to get trimmed later. Uses a crosscut saw at the sawbench, cutting with the saw at 45 degrees to the work, and holding the lumber down with our knees. === Planing a face === Getting the face of a board flat (or “true”) means that we have a flat plane to base other measurements in the project off. We start with a fore plane if necessary, then move to a try plane. 7faf2969a123f57ce70673fcb8506e54a6d2c7d5 7 6 2021-06-25T13:26:47Z Craig 1 Add mention of technique, tool, project and journey list pages wikitext text/x-wiki Welcome to the Subversive Woodworking wiki. Here you can find (and help create) resources to help you on your woodworking journey. Each woodworking project is made up of [[techniques]] which take practice to master, and require specific [[tools]]. By combining these techniques you can build many different [[projects]]. You can follow your own path through these, or learn using our curated [[journeys]] which take you through some foundational techniques and projects. == Tool List == === Saws === * Crosscut saw * Backsaw === Planes === * Fore plane * Try plane == Techniques == === Course Crosscut === For cutting boards roughly to length, when the ends are going to get trimmed later. Uses a crosscut saw at the sawbench, cutting with the saw at 45 degrees to the work, and holding the lumber down with our knees. === Planing a face === Getting the face of a board flat (or “true”) means that we have a flat plane to base other measurements in the project off. We start with a fore plane if necessary, then move to a try plane. 8824743da76edbe983520e0f7268695100b8882b 10 7 2021-06-25T13:31:51Z Tariq 3 delete test content wikitext text/x-wiki Welcome to the Subversive Woodworking wiki. Here you can find (and help create) resources to help you on your woodworking journey. Each woodworking project is made up of [[techniques]] which take practice to master, and require specific [[tools]]. By combining these techniques you can build many different [[projects]]. You can follow your own path through these, or learn using our curated [[journeys]] which take you through some foundational techniques and projects. 130db37066a110493aa9cc981231a9cedaf602e5 18 10 2021-06-26T02:24:17Z Craig 1 wikitext text/x-wiki Welcome to the Subversive Woodworking wiki. Here you can find (and help create) resources to help you on your woodworking journey. Each woodworking project is made up of [[Techniques]] which take practice to master, and require specific [[Tools]]. By combining these techniques you can build many different [[Projects]]. You can follow your own path through these, or learn using our curated [[Journeys]] which take you through some foundational techniques and projects. 8406abcd5bcfdbbb3751eda035bf16e67c0b1306 0 2 8 2021-06-25T13:29:34Z Tariq 3 test wikitext text/x-wiki === Course Crosscut === For cutting boards roughly to length, when the ends are going to get trimmed later. Uses a crosscut saw at the sawbench, cutting with the saw at 45 degrees to the work, and holding the lumber down with our knees. === Planing a face === Getting the face of a board flat (or “true”) means that we have a flat plane to base other measurements in the project off. We start with a fore plane if necessary, then move to a try plane. d5a5b93ba9821a7b32af0ecbd4999ca476456016 11 8 2021-06-25T23:22:10Z Craig 1 Added some techniques wikitext text/x-wiki Stock Preparation * Face Planing * Edge Planing * Reference Marks * Gauging Widths * Shooting End-Grain * Wood Movement Sawing * Course Crosscut * Medium Crosscut * Fine Crosscut * Rip Cut * Re-saw Carcass Joinery * End-Grain Rebate (Chiselled) * Rebate (Planed) * Groove * Dado * Stopped Dado * Sliding Dovetail * Stopped Sliding Dovetail * Tapered Sliding Dovetail * Through Dovetail * Half-Blind Dovetail Fastening * Nailing * Clinched Nailing * Skew Nailing * Screwing 7bdc9207c5cbc97396e12f05eb2670d57a6dcadc 12 11 2021-06-26T01:46:04Z Craig 1 wikitext text/x-wiki === Stock Preparation === * Understanding Grain *Face Planing * Edge Planing * Reference Marks * Gauging Widths *Four-Square Stock * Shooting End-Grain * Wood Movement === Sawing === * [[Course Crosscut]] * Medium Crosscut * Fine Crosscut * Rip Cut * Re-saw === Carcass Joinery === * End-Grain Rebate (Chiselled) * Rebate (Planed) * Groove * Dado * Stopped Dado * Sliding Dovetail * Stopped Sliding Dovetail * Tapered Sliding Dovetail * Through Dovetail * Half-Blind Dovetail === Fastening === * Nailing * Clinched Nailing * Skew Nailing * Screwing db39d7fc2e532f8751ca54403051bd20a2d472c6 26 12 2021-06-26T07:45:31Z Craig 1 wikitext text/x-wiki === Stock Preparation === * Understanding Grain *[[Face Planing]] * [[Edge Planing]] * [[Reference Marks]] * [[Four-Square Stock]] * [[Shooting End-Grain]] * Wood Movement === Sawing === * [[Course Crosscut]] * Medium Crosscut * Fine Crosscut * Rip Cut * Re-saw === Carcass Joinery === * End-Grain Rebate (Chiselled) * Rebate (Planed) * Groove * [[Dado]] * Stopped Dado * Sliding Dovetail * Stopped Sliding Dovetail * Tapered Sliding Dovetail * Through Dovetail * Half-Blind Dovetail === Fastening === * [[Nailing with Cut Nails]] * [[Clinched Nailing]] * Skew Nailing * Screwing === Finishing === * [[Linseed Oil Finish]] dd805abe6dec98f1327b21710b491689580975f3 0 3 9 2021-06-25T13:30:59Z Tariq 3 initial test wikitext text/x-wiki === Saws === * Crosscut saw * Backsaw === Planes === * Fore plane * Try plane ee724ff86d26fee62bd787d5cdc1aceb5b7148df 0 4 13 2021-06-26T01:47:46Z Craig 1 Created page with "For cutting boards roughly to length, when the ends are going to get trimmed later. Uses a [[Crosscut Hand Saw]] at the [[Sawbench]], cutting with the saw at 45 degrees to th..." wikitext text/x-wiki For cutting boards roughly to length, when the ends are going to get trimmed later. Uses a [[Crosscut Hand Saw]] at the [[Sawbench]], cutting with the saw at 45 degrees to the work, and holding the lumber down with our knees. 553e63c976620fe0e52375c821618cba68c976fd 14 13 2021-06-26T01:57:49Z Craig 1 wikitext text/x-wiki For cutting boards roughly to length, when the ends are going to get trimmed later. Uses a [[Crosscut Hand Saw]] at the [[Sawbench]], cutting with the saw at 45 degrees to the work, and holding the lumber down with our knees. === Tools === * [[Crosscut Hand Saw]] * [[Sawbench]] === Prerequisites === ''none'' === Enables === * [[Four-Square Stock]] === Projects === * [[Chopping Board]] d336b6fb997f5a1fc0981de827fd5df3a3195e9d 0 5 15 2021-06-26T02:03:37Z Craig 1 Created page with "== Joinery & Furniture Making == === Foundational === * [[Chopping Board]]" wikitext text/x-wiki == Joinery & Furniture Making == === Foundational === * [[Chopping Board]] 71b6ab2ac2a3549daa0a05d340c841a779928abf 16 15 2021-06-26T02:04:32Z Craig 1 /* Foundational */ wikitext text/x-wiki == Joinery & Furniture Making == === Foundational Projects === * [[Chopping Board]] e401421e48c939a7f85961b57d6f802df5e294ff 0 6 17 2021-06-26T02:22:52Z Craig 1 Created page with "Learning woodwork requires a balance between the repetitive practice of new [[Techniques]], with the success and satisfaction of completing [[Projects]]. While freedom and cre..." wikitext text/x-wiki Learning woodwork requires a balance between the repetitive practice of new [[Techniques]], with the success and satisfaction of completing [[Projects]]. While freedom and creativity are part of this process, sometimes there can be so many different possibilities open to us that it's hard to know how we can get started actually making things. To find a balance between total freedom, and a single proscribed path, this Subversive Woodworking wiki suggests you consider some guided Journeys. These are short paths you can follow for a while as part of your larger exploration of woodworking. A good Journey: * Is clear on what skills, tools and materials you need in order to get started * Balances learning some new techniques with also producing some satisfying projects * Builds towards a cohesive goal * Allows for sharing knowledge with fellow travelers === Foundational Journeys === ==== [[The Starter Toolbox]] ==== For new woodworkers with no tools, we focus on a series of projects to build and collect the small but very personal set of tools needed to measure, mark and join. This culminates in making a Japanese style portable toolbox to hold these tools, leaving you well set up to participate in woodworking activities in common spaces. 15eb63f1563330b85579b060b06328fa98afe316 0 7 19 2021-06-26T02:30:32Z Craig 1 Created page with "This is still being planed. If you're interested, jump into the discussion thread for this page. === Project Ideas === * Wooden marking gauge * Wooden try square * Marking k..." wikitext text/x-wiki This is still being planed. If you're interested, jump into the discussion thread for this page. === Project Ideas === * Wooden marking gauge * Wooden try square * Marking knife with wooden handle * Tuning up your first chisel * Small Japanese toolbox 4d3aaa77429696207a434535739192416b418629 20 19 2021-06-26T02:32:43Z Craig 1 wikitext text/x-wiki This is still being planed. If you're interested, jump into the discussion thread for this page. === Project Ideas === * Wooden marking gauge * Wooden try square * Marking knife with wooden handle * Tuning up your first chisel *Krenov smoothing plane OR tune up old Stanley plane * Small Japanese toolbox 41e2cf1e8cc22eabbd521a3d2f4af191eba96071 21 20 2021-06-26T02:55:24Z Craig 1 wikitext text/x-wiki This is still being planed. If you're interested, jump into the discussion thread for this page. # Project: Marking knife with wooden handle # Project: Wooden try square # Project: Wooden marking gauge # Project: Krenov Smoothing Plane OR Tune-Up Vintage Stanley #4 # Technique: [[Four Square Board]] # Project: Set of Eating Boards # Project: Small Japanese toolbox bcace62904da706683b9104970cc37b96579e1c4 22 21 2021-06-26T03:20:35Z Craig 1 wikitext text/x-wiki This is still being planed. If you're interested, jump into the discussion thread for this page. # Project: Marking knife with wooden handle # Project: Wooden try square #Project: Tune-Up A Chisel #Project: Wooden mallet # Project: Wooden marking gauge #(acquire a sliding bevel) # Project: Krenov Smoothing Plane OR Tune-Up Vintage Stanley #4 # Technique: [[Four Square Board]] # Project: Set of Eating Boards # Project: Small Japanese toolbox 03dbf37503aeaca9b6b832751a6b0b5fe353a859 23 22 2021-06-26T06:49:58Z Craig 1 added intro wikitext text/x-wiki This Journey is a great way to get started in woodworking. It's specifically designed so that you end up with your own toolbox, and you have collected small and often highly personal tools used to mark out and cut basic joinery (with the exception of saws). This is a particularly good setup for those who do some of their woodworking in a common workshop, such as a woodworking club, classroom or maker space, because larger tools can often be used from a common set in such a workshop. The toolbox itself is built towards the end of this journey. It's designed to be a small toolbox that is highly portable, and as such it's modeled on a common Japanese toolbox design. The techniques used in it's construction, however, are quite universal, and it's an excellent toolbox regardless of whether you prefer a western style of tools (with says and planes that cut on the push stroke), Japanese ones, or something else entirely. The Starter Toolbox Journey is also specifically designed for financial accessibility. Many woodworking books and magazines give the impression that you need to spend hundreds, if not thousands, of dollars before you can get started making furniture. With the tools created and collected as part of this journey you will be setup to build many interesting projects with a total expenditure of only tens of dollars. In addition, because we envisage that this might be a common journey, it's possible for groups to buy the few metal parts needed for these tools in bulk to save money. In addition to collecting and creating your tools, this journey teaches you many of the basics of hand-tool woodworking, allowing you to take rough timber and get it measured up, cut and planed to precise shape and size. To practice these fundamental techniques, you will also produce some handsome wooden eating boards as part of this, using a hand plane you made yourself. # Project: Marking knife with wooden handle # Project: Wooden try square #Project: Tune-Up A Chisel #Project: Wooden mallet # Project: Wooden marking gauge #(acquire a sliding bevel) # Project: Krenov Smoothing Plane OR Tune-Up Vintage Stanley #4 # Technique: [[Four Square Board]] # Project: Set of Eating Boards # Project: Small Japanese toolbox 47a92c15b1f75090fd7b704475050f52b3bb9f92 24 23 2021-06-26T07:28:31Z Craig 1 wikitext text/x-wiki == Introduction == This Journey is a great way to get started in woodworking. It's specifically designed so that you end up with your own toolbox, and you have collected small and often highly personal tools used to mark out and cut basic joinery (with the exception of saws). This is a particularly good setup for those who do some of their woodworking in a common workshop, such as a woodworking club, classroom or maker space, because larger tools can often be used from a common set in such a workshop. The toolbox itself is built towards the end of this journey. It's designed to be a small toolbox that is highly portable, and as such it's modeled on a common Japanese toolbox design. The techniques used in it's construction, however, are quite universal, and it's an excellent toolbox regardless of whether you prefer a western style of tools (with says and planes that cut on the push stroke), Japanese ones, or something else entirely. The Starter Toolbox Journey is also specifically designed for financial accessibility. Many woodworking books and magazines give the impression that you need to spend hundreds, if not thousands, of dollars before you can get started making furniture. With the tools created and collected as part of this journey you will be setup to build many interesting projects with a total expenditure of only tens of dollars. In addition, because we envisage that this might be a common journey, it's possible for groups to buy the few metal parts needed for these tools in bulk to save money. In addition to collecting and creating your tools, this journey teaches you many of the basics of hand-tool woodworking, allowing you to take rough timber and get it measured up, cut and planed to precise shape and size. To practice these fundamental techniques, you will also produce some handsome wooden eating boards as part of this, using a hand plane you made yourself. == Milestones == === Cutting Precise and Square === When you've achieved this, you'll be able to cut wood to length with sub-millimeter accuracy and perfectly square or at another specific angle. This relies on having a good marking knife, try square and sliding bevel, and knowing how to use them. * Project: [[Marking Knife]] * Project: [[Wooden Try Square]] (you'll make two squares, one small and one medium sized) * Project: [[Wooden Sliding Bevel]] * Technique: [[Fine Crosscut]] === Planing Flat and Smooth === In the previous milestone, we were given a leg up by other woodworkers by only working with wood that was already flat, square, and exactly the dimensions we needed. This is unlikely to be the case in the future, as wood is a natural material that comes in all shapes and sizes. To get it flat, we're going to need a plane, and when you've achieved this milestone you'll have a smoothing plane of your own, made to fit your own hands, for the price of the blade. You'll also be able to flatten small boards, and square an edge using the try square you made previously. * Project: [[Krenov Smoothing Plane]] * Technique: [[Face Planing]] * Technique: [[Edge Planing]] * Technique: [[Reference Marks]] === Planing Width and Thickness === To plane your stock to precise width and thickness, you'll need a marking gauge to cut a fine line exactly parallel to the reference face or edge. This will let you plane boards so that all four sides are square and parallel to each other. This technique is so fundamental to all other woodworking tasks, that you'll get to celebrate it by making yourself a set of small cutting boards for eating or serving food. *Project: [[Wooden Marking Gauge]] (you'll make two gauges, to hold two different measurements in a project at once) *Technique: [[Four Square Board]] * Project: [[Set of Eating Boards]] === Chopping Joinery === *Project: Tune-Up A Chisel *Project: Joiners Mallet * *(acquire a sliding bevel) * Project: Krenov Smoothing Plane OR Tune-Up Vintage Stanley #4 * * Project: Small Japanese toolbox 189060a1f9586c902de2714d61c2cfec68c54731 25 24 2021-06-26T07:45:28Z Craig 1 wikitext text/x-wiki == Introduction == This Journey is a great way to get started in woodworking. It's specifically designed so that you end up with your own toolbox, and you have collected small and often highly personal tools used to mark out and cut basic joinery (with the exception of saws). This is a particularly good setup for those who do some of their woodworking in a common workshop, such as a woodworking club, classroom or maker space, because larger tools can often be used from a common set in such a workshop. The toolbox itself is built towards the end of this journey. It's designed to be a small toolbox that is highly portable, and as such it's modeled on a common Japanese toolbox design. The techniques used in it's construction, however, are quite universal, and it's an excellent toolbox regardless of whether you prefer a western style of tools (with says and planes that cut on the push stroke), Japanese ones, or something else entirely. The Starter Toolbox Journey is also specifically designed for financial accessibility. Many woodworking books and magazines give the impression that you need to spend hundreds, if not thousands, of dollars before you can get started making furniture. With the tools created and collected as part of this journey you will be setup to build many interesting projects with a total expenditure of only tens of dollars. In addition, because we envisage that this might be a common journey, it's possible for groups to buy the few metal parts needed for these tools in bulk to save money. In addition to collecting and creating your tools, this journey teaches you many of the basics of hand-tool woodworking, allowing you to take rough timber and get it measured up, cut and planed to precise shape and size. To practice these fundamental techniques, you will also produce some handsome wooden eating boards as part of this, using a hand plane you made yourself. == Milestones == === Cutting Precise and Square === When you've achieved this, you'll be able to cut wood to length with sub-millimeter accuracy and perfectly square or at another specific angle. This relies on having a good marking knife, try square and sliding bevel, and knowing how to use them. * Project: [[Marking Knife]] *Project: [[Linseed Oil Finish]] * Project: [[Wooden Try Square]] (you'll make two squares, one small and one medium sized) * Project: [[Wooden Sliding Bevel]] * Technique: [[Fine Crosscut]] === Planing Flat and Smooth === In the previous milestone, we were given a leg up by other woodworkers by only working with wood that was already flat, square, and exactly the dimensions we needed. This is unlikely to be the case in the future, as wood is a natural material that comes in all shapes and sizes. To get it flat, we're going to need a plane, and when you've achieved this milestone you'll have a smoothing plane of your own, made to fit your own hands, for the price of the blade. You'll also be able to flatten small boards, and square an edge using the try square you made previously. * Project: [[Krenov Smoothing Plane]] * Technique: [[Face Planing]] * Technique: [[Edge Planing]] * Technique: [[Reference Marks]] === Planing Width and Thickness === To plane your stock to precise width and thickness, you'll need a marking gauge to cut a fine line exactly parallel to the reference face or edge. This will let you plane boards so that all four sides are square and parallel to each other. This technique is so fundamental to all other woodworking tasks, that you'll get to celebrate it by making yourself a set of small cutting boards for eating or serving food. *Project: [[Wooden Marking Gauge]] (you'll make two gauges, to hold two different measurements in a project at once) *Technique: [[Four-Square Stock]] *Technique: [[Shooting End-Grain]] * Project: [[Set of Eating Boards]] === Chopping Joinery === Now that you can produce square and precisely dimensioned stock for your projects, you're getting close to being able to make the toolbox. The toolbox involves joinery however, that needs to be chopped out with a chisel. It's time to invest in a chisel (you only need one at this point) and make yourself the all important joiners mallet so that you can get chopping *Project: [[Tune-Up A Chisel]] *Project: [[Joiner's Mallet]] === Making the Box === Finally, it's time to bring it all together in a project. There are a bunch of new techniques here, and each time you'll be stopping to work on them on scrap wood to build confidence before applying them to your toolbox. When you're done, you'll have a place for everything, and everything in it's place. * Technique: [[Dado]] *Technique: [[Nailing with Cut Nails]] *Technique: [[Clinched Nailing]] *Project: [[Japanese Toolbox]] ba4d49bc2ee399ee5f51508f9ef3a1c26b3a43f4 27 25 2021-06-26T07:46:15Z Craig 1 wikitext text/x-wiki == Introduction == This [[Journeys|Journey]] is a great way to get started in woodworking. It's specifically designed so that you end up with your own toolbox, and you have collected small and often highly personal tools used to mark out and cut basic joinery (with the exception of saws). This is a particularly good setup for those who do some of their woodworking in a common workshop, such as a woodworking club, classroom or maker space, because larger tools can often be used from a common set in such a workshop. The toolbox itself is built towards the end of this journey. It's designed to be a small toolbox that is highly portable, and as such it's modeled on a common Japanese toolbox design. The techniques used in it's construction, however, are quite universal, and it's an excellent toolbox regardless of whether you prefer a western style of tools (with says and planes that cut on the push stroke), Japanese ones, or something else entirely. The Starter Toolbox Journey is also specifically designed for financial accessibility. Many woodworking books and magazines give the impression that you need to spend hundreds, if not thousands, of dollars before you can get started making furniture. With the tools created and collected as part of this journey you will be setup to build many interesting projects with a total expenditure of only tens of dollars. In addition, because we envisage that this might be a common journey, it's possible for groups to buy the few metal parts needed for these tools in bulk to save money. In addition to collecting and creating your tools, this journey teaches you many of the basics of hand-tool woodworking, allowing you to take rough timber and get it measured up, cut and planed to precise shape and size. To practice these fundamental techniques, you will also produce some handsome wooden eating boards as part of this, using a hand plane you made yourself. == Milestones == === Cutting Precise and Square === When you've achieved this, you'll be able to cut wood to length with sub-millimeter accuracy and perfectly square or at another specific angle. This relies on having a good marking knife, try square and sliding bevel, and knowing how to use them. * Project: [[Marking Knife]] *Project: [[Linseed Oil Finish]] * Project: [[Wooden Try Square]] (you'll make two squares, one small and one medium sized) * Project: [[Wooden Sliding Bevel]] * Technique: [[Fine Crosscut]] === Planing Flat and Smooth === In the previous milestone, we were given a leg up by other woodworkers by only working with wood that was already flat, square, and exactly the dimensions we needed. This is unlikely to be the case in the future, as wood is a natural material that comes in all shapes and sizes. To get it flat, we're going to need a plane, and when you've achieved this milestone you'll have a smoothing plane of your own, made to fit your own hands, for the price of the blade. You'll also be able to flatten small boards, and square an edge using the try square you made previously. * Project: [[Krenov Smoothing Plane]] * Technique: [[Face Planing]] * Technique: [[Edge Planing]] * Technique: [[Reference Marks]] === Planing Width and Thickness === To plane your stock to precise width and thickness, you'll need a marking gauge to cut a fine line exactly parallel to the reference face or edge. This will let you plane boards so that all four sides are square and parallel to each other. This technique is so fundamental to all other woodworking tasks, that you'll get to celebrate it by making yourself a set of small cutting boards for eating or serving food. *Project: [[Wooden Marking Gauge]] (you'll make two gauges, to hold two different measurements in a project at once) *Technique: [[Four-Square Stock]] *Technique: [[Shooting End-Grain]] * Project: [[Set of Eating Boards]] === Chopping Joinery === Now that you can produce square and precisely dimensioned stock for your projects, you're getting close to being able to make the toolbox. The toolbox involves joinery however, that needs to be chopped out with a chisel. It's time to invest in a chisel (you only need one at this point) and make yourself the all important joiners mallet so that you can get chopping *Project: [[Tune-Up A Chisel]] *Project: [[Joiner's Mallet]] === Making the Box === Finally, it's time to bring it all together in a project. There are a bunch of new techniques here, and each time you'll be stopping to work on them on scrap wood to build confidence before applying them to your toolbox. When you're done, you'll have a place for everything, and everything in it's place. * Technique: [[Dado]] *Technique: [[Nailing with Cut Nails]] *Technique: [[Clinched Nailing]] *Project: [[Japanese Toolbox]] 2c18439c4d1fb9ce96edd04346d560e65fef30bc 30 27 2021-06-26T07:55:59Z Craig 1 wikitext text/x-wiki == Introduction == [[File:Japanese Toolbox.jpg|alt=Completed japanese toolbox full of tools, by George Snyder|thumb|Completed japanese toolbox full of tools, by George Snyder]] This [[Journeys|Journey]] is a great way to get started in woodworking. It's specifically designed so that you end up with your own toolbox, and you have collected small and often highly personal tools used to mark out and cut basic joinery (with the exception of saws). This is a particularly good setup for those who do some of their woodworking in a common workshop, such as a woodworking club, classroom or maker space, because larger tools can often be used from a common set in such a workshop. The toolbox itself is built towards the end of this journey. It's designed to be a small toolbox that is highly portable, and as such it's modeled on a common Japanese toolbox design. The techniques used in it's construction, however, are quite universal, and it's an excellent toolbox regardless of whether you prefer a western style of tools (with says and planes that cut on the push stroke), Japanese ones, or something else entirely. The Starter Toolbox Journey is also specifically designed for financial accessibility. Many woodworking books and magazines give the impression that you need to spend hundreds, if not thousands, of dollars before you can get started making furniture. With the tools created and collected as part of this journey you will be setup to build many interesting projects with a total expenditure of only tens of dollars. In addition, because we envisage that this might be a common journey, it's possible for groups to buy the few metal parts needed for these tools in bulk to save money. In addition to collecting and creating your tools, this journey teaches you many of the basics of hand-tool woodworking, allowing you to take rough timber and get it measured up, cut and planed to precise shape and size. To practice these fundamental techniques, you will also produce some handsome wooden eating boards as part of this, using a hand plane you made yourself. == Milestones == === Cutting Precise and Square === When you've achieved this, you'll be able to cut wood to length with sub-millimeter accuracy and perfectly square or at another specific angle. This relies on having a good marking knife, try square and sliding bevel, and knowing how to use them. * Project: [[Marking Knife]] *Project: [[Linseed Oil Finish]] * Project: [[Wooden Try Square]] (you'll make two squares, one small and one medium sized) * Project: [[Wooden Sliding Bevel]] * Technique: [[Fine Crosscut]] === Planing Flat and Smooth === In the previous milestone, we were given a leg up by other woodworkers by only working with wood that was already flat, square, and exactly the dimensions we needed. This is unlikely to be the case in the future, as wood is a natural material that comes in all shapes and sizes. To get it flat, we're going to need a plane, and when you've achieved this milestone you'll have a smoothing plane of your own, made to fit your own hands, for the price of the blade. You'll also be able to flatten small boards, and square an edge using the try square you made previously. * Project: [[Krenov Smoothing Plane]] * Technique: [[Face Planing]] * Technique: [[Edge Planing]] * Technique: [[Reference Marks]] === Planing Width and Thickness === To plane your stock to precise width and thickness, you'll need a marking gauge to cut a fine line exactly parallel to the reference face or edge. This will let you plane boards so that all four sides are square and parallel to each other. This technique is so fundamental to all other woodworking tasks, that you'll get to celebrate it by making yourself a set of small cutting boards for eating or serving food. *Project: [[Wooden Marking Gauge]] (you'll make two gauges, to hold two different measurements in a project at once) *Technique: [[Four-Square Stock]] *Technique: [[Shooting End-Grain]] * Project: [[Set of Eating Boards]] === Chopping Joinery === Now that you can produce square and precisely dimensioned stock for your projects, you're getting close to being able to make the toolbox. The toolbox involves joinery however, that needs to be chopped out with a chisel. It's time to invest in a chisel (you only need one at this point) and make yourself the all important joiners mallet so that you can get chopping *Project: [[Tune-Up A Chisel]] *Project: [[Joiner's Mallet]] === Making the Box === Finally, it's time to bring it all together in a project. There are a bunch of new techniques here, and each time you'll be stopping to work on them on scrap wood to build confidence before applying them to your toolbox. When you're done, you'll have a place for everything, and everything in it's place. * Technique: [[Dado]] *Technique: [[Nailing with Cut Nails]] *Technique: [[Clinched Nailing]] *Project: [[Japanese Toolbox]] 6e5a8d871971fd7ac3a1cc13f3b943c7b0591198 32 30 2021-06-26T08:25:55Z Craig 1 wikitext text/x-wiki == Introduction == [[File:Japanese Toolbox.jpg|alt=Completed japanese toolbox full of tools, by George Snyder|thumb|Completed japanese toolbox full of tools, by George Snyder]] This [[Journeys|Journey]] is a great way to get started in woodworking. It's specifically designed so that you end up with your own toolbox, and you have collected small and often highly personal tools used to mark out and cut basic joinery (with the exception of saws). This is a particularly good setup for those who do some of their woodworking in a common workshop, such as a woodworking club, classroom or maker space, because larger tools can often be used from a common set in such a workshop. The toolbox itself is built towards the end of this journey. It's designed to be a small toolbox that is highly portable, and as such it's modeled on a common Japanese toolbox design. The techniques used in it's construction, however, are quite universal, and it's an excellent toolbox regardless of whether you prefer a western style of tools (with saws and planes that cut on the push stroke), Japanese ones, or something else entirely. The Starter Toolbox Journey is also specifically designed for financial accessibility. Many woodworking books and magazines give the impression that you need to spend hundreds, if not thousands, of dollars before you can get started making furniture. With the tools created and collected as part of this journey you will be setup to build many interesting projects with a total expenditure of only tens of dollars. In addition, because we envisage that this might be a common journey, it's possible for groups to buy the few metal parts needed for these tools in bulk to save money. In addition to collecting and creating your tools, this journey teaches you many of the basics of hand-tool woodworking, allowing you to take rough timber and get it measured up, cut and planed to precise shape and size. To practice these fundamental techniques, you will also produce some handsome wooden eating boards as part of this, using a hand plane you made yourself. == Milestones == === Cutting Precise and Square === When you've achieved this, you'll be able to cut wood to length with sub-millimeter accuracy and perfectly square or at another specific angle. This relies on having a good marking knife, try square and sliding bevel, and knowing how to use them. * Project: [[Marking Knife]] *Technique: [[Linseed Oil Finish]] * Project: [[Wooden Try Square]] (you'll make two squares, one small and one medium sized) * Project: [[Wooden Sliding Bevel]] * Technique: [[Fine Crosscut]] === Planing Flat and Smooth === In the previous milestone, we were given a leg up by other woodworkers by only working with wood that was already flat, square, and exactly the dimensions we needed. This is unlikely to be the case in the future, as wood is a natural material that comes in all shapes and sizes. To get it flat, we're going to need a plane, and when you've achieved this milestone you'll have a smoothing plane of your own, made to fit your own hands, for the price of the blade. You'll also be able to flatten small boards, and square an edge using the try square you made previously. * Project: [[Krenov Smoothing Plane]] * Technique: [[Face Planing]] * Technique: [[Edge Planing]] * Technique: [[Reference Marks]] === Planing Width and Thickness === To plane your stock to precise width and thickness, you'll need a marking gauge to cut a fine line exactly parallel to the reference face or edge. This will let you plane boards so that all four sides are square and parallel to each other. This technique is so fundamental to all other woodworking tasks, that you'll get to celebrate it by making yourself a set of small cutting boards for eating or serving food. *Project: [[Wooden Marking Gauge]] (you'll make two gauges, to hold two different measurements in a project at once) *Technique: [[Four-Square Stock]] *Technique: [[Shooting End-Grain]] * Project: [[Set of Eating Boards]] === Chopping Joinery === Now that you can produce square and precisely dimensioned stock for your projects, you're getting close to being able to make the toolbox. The toolbox involves joinery however, that needs to be chopped out with a chisel. It's time to invest in a chisel (you only need one at this point) and make yourself the all important joiners mallet so that you can get chopping *Project: [[Tune-Up A Chisel]] *Project: [[Joiner's Mallet]] === Making the Box === Finally, it's time to bring it all together in a project. There are a bunch of new techniques here, and each time you'll be stopping to work on them on scrap wood to build confidence before applying them to your toolbox. When you're done, you'll have a place for everything, and everything in it's place. * Technique: [[Dado]] *Technique: [[Nailing with Cut Nails]] *Technique: [[Clinched Nailing]] *Project: [[Japanese Toolbox]] b100425c3558504efaa948f58d5a97218727f8e2 33 32 2021-06-26T09:22:33Z Tariq 3 Minor stylistic edits wikitext text/x-wiki == Introduction == [[File:Japanese Toolbox.jpg|alt=Completed japanese toolbox full of tools, by George Snyder|thumb|Completed Japanese toolbox full of tools, by George Snyder]] This [[Journeys|Journey]] is a great way to get started in woodworking. It's specifically designed so that you end up with your own toolbox, and a collection of small and often highly personal tools used to mark out and cut basic joinery (with the exception of saws). This is a particularly good setup for those who do some of their woodworking in a common workshop (such as a woodworking club, classroom, or maker space) because larger tools can often be used from a common set in such a workshop. The toolbox itself is built towards the end of this journey. It's designed to be a small toolbox that is highly portable, and as such it's modeled on a common Japanese toolbox design. The techniques used in it's construction, however, are quite universal, and it's an excellent toolbox regardless of whether you prefer a western style of tools (with saws and planes that cut on the push stroke), Japanese ones, or something else entirely. The Starter Toolbox Journey is also specifically designed for financial accessibility. Many woodworking books and magazines give the impression that you need to spend hundreds, if not thousands, of dollars before you can get started making furniture. With the tools created and collected as part of this journey you will be setup to build many interesting projects with a total expenditure of only tens of dollars. In addition, because we envisage that this might be a common journey, it's possible for groups to buy the few metal parts needed for these tools in bulk to save money. In addition to collecting and creating your tools, this journey teaches you many of the basics of hand-tool woodworking, allowing you to take rough timber and get it measured up, cut and planed to precise shape and size. To practice these fundamental techniques, you will also produce some handsome wooden eating boards as part of this, using a hand plane you made yourself. == Milestones == === Cutting Precise and Square === When you've achieved this, you'll be able to cut wood to length with sub-millimeter accuracy and perfectly square, or at another specific angle. This relies on having a good marking knife, try square and sliding bevel, and knowing how to use them. * Project: [[Marking Knife]] *Technique: [[Linseed Oil Finish]] * Project: [[Wooden Try Square]] (you'll make two squares, one small and one medium sized) * Project: [[Wooden Sliding Bevel]] * Technique: [[Fine Crosscut]] === Planing Flat and Smooth === In the previous milestone, we were given a leg up by other woodworkers by only working with wood that was already flat, square, and exactly the dimensions we needed. This is unlikely to be the case in the future, as wood is a natural material that comes in all shapes and sizes. To get it flat, we're going to need a plane, and when you've achieved this milestone you'll have a smoothing plane of your own, made to fit your own hands, for the price of the blade. You'll also be able to flatten small boards, and square an edge using the try square you made previously. * Project: [[Krenov Smoothing Plane]] * Technique: [[Face Planing]] * Technique: [[Edge Planing]] * Technique: [[Reference Marks]] === Planing Width and Thickness === To plane your stock to precise width and thickness, you'll need a marking gauge to cut a fine line exactly parallel to the reference face or edge. This will let you plane boards so that all four sides are square and parallel to each other. This technique is so fundamental to all other woodworking tasks that you'll get to celebrate it by making yourself a set of small cutting boards for eating or serving food. *Project: [[Wooden Marking Gauge]] (you'll make two gauges, to hold two different measurements in a project at once) *Technique: [[Four-Square Stock]] *Technique: [[Shooting End-Grain]] * Project: [[Set of Eating Boards]] === Chopping Joinery === Now that you can produce square and precisely dimensioned stock for your projects, you're getting close to being able to make the toolbox. The toolbox involves joinery however, that needs to be chopped out with a chisel. It's time to invest in a chisel (you only need one at this point) and make yourself the all important joiners mallet so that you can get chopping *Project: [[Tune-Up A Chisel]] *Project: [[Joiner's Mallet]] === Making the Box === Finally, it's time to bring it all together in a project. There are a bunch of new techniques here, and each time you'll be stopping to practice on scrap wood to build confidence before applying these techniques to your toolbox. When you're done, you'll have a place for everything, and everything in it's place. * Technique: [[Dado]] *Technique: [[Nailing with Cut Nails]] *Technique: [[Clinched Nailing]] *Project: [[Japanese Toolbox]] 837fb43fb9711abab8647a78da7ce7087fe7a6ab 0 8 28 2021-06-26T07:50:01Z Craig 1 Created page with "Some useful references. https://www.finewoodworking.com/membership/pdf/221865/011257058.pdf https://www.woodpeck.com/blog/japanese-toolbox.html" wikitext text/x-wiki Some useful references. https://www.finewoodworking.com/membership/pdf/221865/011257058.pdf https://www.woodpeck.com/blog/japanese-toolbox.html 3111b3b395584ead0f5d510934b62061af7a7fb4 6 9 29 2021-06-26T07:55:15Z Craig 1 wikitext text/x-wiki By George Snyder at https://www.woodpeck.com/blog/japanese-toolbox.html d80d1dd1d8b1fdf20ee265448d9d139059ec9c2f 0 10 31 2021-06-26T08:05:35Z Craig 1 Created page with "Some resources https://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/BuildingaKrenovSmoother.html" wikitext text/x-wiki Some resources https://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/BuildingaKrenovSmoother.html 4bcd0b0255d5ebf6d5d0e98240ae76c79b91202c 8 11 34 2021-06-26T11:56:47Z Craig 1 Created page with "Subversive Woodworking" wikitext text/x-wiki Subversive Woodworking 29be786d501df8af92c2e2df25da91449f517d58 0 12 35 2021-06-26T11:59:41Z Craig 1 Moved content from old main page wikitext text/x-wiki Welcome to the Subversive Woodworking wiki. Here you can find (and help create) resources to help you on your woodworking journey. Each woodworking project is made up of [[Techniques]] which take practice to master, and require specific [[Tools]]. By combining these techniques you can build many different [[Projects]]. You can follow your own path through these, or learn using our curated [[Journeys]] which take you through some foundational techniques and projects. 8406abcd5bcfdbbb3751eda035bf16e67c0b1306 37 35 2021-06-26T12:10:26Z Craig 1 wikitext text/x-wiki [[File:Subversive Woodworking Logo.png|left|frameless]] <big>Welcome to Subversive Woodworking. This is both an inclusive way to get started with woodworking and also an explicitly political project encouraging us to value the labour of our own hands over purchased commodities.</big> Each woodworking project is made up of [[Techniques]] which take practice to master, and require specific [[Tools]]. By combining these techniques you can build many different [[Projects]]. You can follow your own path through these, or learn using our curated [[Journeys]] which take you through some foundational techniques and projects. 9c886342ecccee0dfbb9c6152c5a86c8d9e6beb8 38 37 2021-06-26T12:13:13Z Craig 1 wikitext text/x-wiki [[File:Subversive Woodworking Logo.png|left|frameless]] <big>Welcome to Subversive Woodworking. This is both an inclusive way to get started with woodworking and also an explicitly political project encouraging us to value the labour of our own hands over purchased commodities.</big> Each woodworking project is made up of [[Techniques]] which take practice to master, and require specific [[Tools]]. By combining these techniques you can build many different [[Projects]]. You can follow your own path through these, or learn using our curated [[Journeys]] which take you through some foundational techniques and projects. 27c8980e9417700a9b6d1772567766c4fe4d0654 39 38 2021-06-26T12:21:10Z Craig 1 wikitext text/x-wiki [[File:Subversive Woodworking Logo.png|left|frameless]] <big>Welcome to Subversive Woodworking. This is both an inclusive way to get started with woodworking and also an explicitly political project encouraging us to value the labour of our own hands over purchased commodities.</big> <blockquote> With the gross failure of the intellectual class, it has fallen to the craftsman to expose the hidden power inequities of society. Subversive woodworking has to take the lead, helping people make a choice between mindless consumerism and conscious craftsmanship. roy underhill</blockquote> {{Quote|text=Cry "Havoc" and let slip the dogs of war.|sign=William Shakespeare|source=''Julius Caesar'', act III, scene I}} Each woodworking project is made up of [[Techniques]] which take practice to master, and require specific [[Tools]]. By combining these techniques you can build many different [[Projects]]. You can follow your own path through these, or learn using our curated [[Journeys]] which take you through some foundational techniques and projects. bf419a5e295ccc132bcf8a4596b75c23b4075183 40 39 2021-06-26T12:28:21Z Craig 1 wikitext text/x-wiki [[File:Subversive Woodworking Logo.png|left|frameless]] <big>Welcome to Subversive Woodworking. This is both an inclusive way to get started with woodworking and also an explicitly political project encouraging us to value the labour of our own hands over purchased commodities.</big> <blockquote> ''With the gross failure of the intellectual class, it has fallen to the craftsman to expose the hidden power inequities of society. Subversive woodworking has to take the lead, helping people make a choice between mindless consumerism and conscious craftsmanship.'' Roy Underhill of The Woodwright's Shop</blockquote> Each woodworking project is made up of [[Techniques]] which take practice to master, and require specific [[Tools]]. By combining these techniques you can build many different [[Projects]]. You can follow your own path through these, or learn using our curated [[Journeys]] which take you through some foundational techniques and projects. b7a7792f70c1106ac3341ca734a56f5e2b3024b4 41 40 2021-06-26T12:29:28Z Craig 1 wikitext text/x-wiki <big>Welcome to Subversive Woodworking. This is both an inclusive way to get started with woodworking and also an explicitly political project encouraging us to value the labour of our own hands over purchased commodities.</big>[[File:Subversive Woodworking Logo.png|frameless|center]]<blockquote> ''With the gross failure of the intellectual class, it has fallen to the craftsman to expose the hidden power inequities of society. Subversive woodworking has to take the lead, helping people make a choice between mindless consumerism and conscious craftsmanship.'' Roy Underhill of The Woodwright's Shop</blockquote> Each woodworking project is made up of [[Techniques]] which take practice to master, and require specific [[Tools]]. By combining these techniques you can build many different [[Projects]]. You can follow your own path through these, or learn using our curated [[Journeys]] which take you through some foundational techniques and projects. 41a83959ec02c51d402d7858513e0c4643eaf1b6 42 41 2021-06-26T12:52:58Z Craig 1 Added some values wikitext text/x-wiki <big>Welcome to Subversive Woodworking. This is both an inclusive way to get started with woodworking and also an explicitly political project encouraging us to value the labour of our own hands over purchased commodities.</big>[[File:Subversive Woodworking Logo.png|frameless|center]]<blockquote> ''With the gross failure of the intellectual class, it has fallen to the craftsman to expose the hidden power inequities of society. Subversive woodworking has to take the lead, helping people make a choice between mindless consumerism and conscious craftsmanship.'' Roy Underhill of The Woodwright's Shop</blockquote> == Our Values == Subversive Woodworking takes a particular position on values. We don't think that these values are needed for all woodworking, but there are plenty of other woodworking groups around if these don't resonate with you. ==== The Journey Matters ==== How an item gets made is part of it's beauty. When when know that something is crafted with love and care by someone who enjoys the work and avoids exploitation and oppression, we find thing more beautiful. ==== Commoning over Self-Reliance ==== Making things isn't an individual act, we live in a society and we all benefit from helping each other as we go. In particular we aren't just building a static "commons", like a shared workshop, we are actively engaged in the process of "[https://www.onthecommons.org/work/what-commoning-anyway commoning]" which is a messy, human and ever-changing co-creation of shared resources, spaces, relationships and ways of living. == Getting Starting with Woodworking == Each woodworking project is made up of [[Techniques]] which take practice to master, and require specific [[Tools]]. By combining these techniques you can build many different [[Projects]]. You can follow your own path through these, or learn using our curated [[Journeys]] which take you through some foundational techniques and projects. cb68353def335825258aaad77f07166d1d90c6b7 43 42 2021-06-26T13:07:00Z Craig 1 wikitext text/x-wiki <big>Welcome to Subversive Woodworking. This is both an inclusive way to get started with woodworking and also an explicitly political project encouraging us to value the labour of our own hands over purchased commodities.</big>[[File:Subversive Woodworking Logo.png|frameless|center]]<blockquote> ''"With the gross failure of the intellectual class, it has fallen to the craftsman to expose the hidden power inequities of society. Subversive woodworking has to take the lead, helping people make a choice between mindless consumerism and conscious craftsmanship."'' Roy Underhill of The Woodwright's Shop</blockquote> == Our Values == Subversive Woodworking takes a particular position on values. We don't think that these values are needed for all woodworking, but there are plenty of other woodworking groups around if these don't resonate with you ==== The Journey Matters ==== How an item gets made is part of it's beauty. When when know that something is crafted with love and care by someone who enjoys the work and avoids exploitation and oppression, we find thing more beautiful. ==== Commoning over Self-Reliance ==== Making things isn't an individual act, we live in a society and we all benefit from helping each other as we go. In particular we aren't just building a static "commons", like a shared workshop, we are actively engaged in the process of "[https://www.onthecommons.org/work/what-commoning-anyway commoning]" which is a messy, human and ever-changing co-creation of shared resources, spaces, relationships and ways of living. ==== Inclusion and Accessibility ==== Experiencing the joy of making things should be available to everyone, and so we strive to create an environment that welcomes everyone regardless of race, gender, sexuality or ability. We also recognise that economic barriers to starting a new craft can disproportionately exclude already marginalized groups and so we explicitly address financial accessibility. ==== Subverting Consumerism ==== When we buy mass-produced commodities, we are supporting a system with treats all labour as an interchangeable resource able to be exploited by those few owning the means of production. We promote joy in the process of creation in order to change our relationship with consumption<blockquote>''“I want to live in a society where people are intoxicated with the joy of making things.”'' William S Coperthwaite</blockquote> == Getting Starting with Woodworking == Each woodworking project is made up of [[Techniques]] which take practice to master, and require specific [[Tools]]. By combining these techniques you can build many different [[Projects]]. You can follow your own path through these, or learn using our curated [[Journeys]] which take you through some foundational techniques and projects. 6b6df62df58c6eb2398c1257a833f4dbed2b6d11 44 43 2021-06-26T13:17:49Z Craig 1 wikitext text/x-wiki <big>Welcome to Subversive Woodworking. This is both an inclusive way to get started with woodworking and also an explicitly political project encouraging us to value the labour of our own hands over purchased commodities.</big>[[File:Subversive Woodworking Logo.png|frameless|center]]<blockquote> ''"With the gross failure of the intellectual class, it has fallen to the craftsman to expose the hidden power inequities of society. Subversive woodworking has to take the lead, helping people make a choice between mindless consumerism and conscious craftsmanship."'' Roy Underhill of The Woodwright's Shop</blockquote> == Our Values == Subversive Woodworking takes a particular position on values. We don't think that these values are needed for all woodworking, but there are plenty of other woodworking groups around if these don't resonate with you ==== The Journey Matters ==== How an item gets made is part of it's beauty. When when know that something is crafted with love and care by someone who enjoys the work and avoids exploitation and oppression, we find thing more beautiful. ==== Commoning over Self-Reliance ==== Making things isn't an individual act, we live in a society and we all benefit from helping each other as we go. In particular we aren't just building a static "commons", like a shared workshop, we are actively engaged in the process of "[https://www.onthecommons.org/work/what-commoning-anyway commoning]" which is a messy, human and ever-changing co-creation of shared resources, spaces, relationships and ways of living. ==== Inclusion and Accessibility ==== Experiencing the joy of making things should be available to everyone, and so we strive to create an environment that welcomes everyone regardless of race, gender, sexuality or ability. We also recognise that economic barriers to starting a new craft can disproportionately exclude already marginalized groups and so we explicitly address financial accessibility. ==== Subverting Consumerism ==== When we buy mass-produced commodities, we are supporting a system with treats all labour as an interchangeable resource able to be exploited by those few owning the means of production. We promote joy in the process of creation in order to change our relationship with consumption<blockquote>''“I want to live in a society where people are intoxicated with the joy of making things.”'' William S Coperthwaite</blockquote> == Our Craft == Our goal is to make things. Things which fill us with a sense of beauty and pride and which we enjoy having in our lives, gifting to our loved ones, or trading in our communities. ==== Projects, Tools and Techniques ==== You can make anything you want, but to get you started this site includes a library of [[Projects]]. Each woodworking project is made up of [[Techniques]] which take practice to master, and require specific [[Tools]]. You can follow your own path through these, or learn using our curated [[Journeys]] which take you through some foundational techniques and projects. 4f37dca12bcb65f5c251b225cde7dfe2d07025cf 45 44 2021-06-26T14:02:57Z Tariq 3 Wording edits wikitext text/x-wiki <big>Welcome to Subversive Woodworking. This is an avenue for learning accessible woodworking techniques, as well as an invitation to participate in co-creating an inclusive process of [https://www.onthecommons.org/work/what-commoning-anyway commoning] that explicitly contributes to the political project of encouraging us to value the labour of our own hands over purchased commodities.</big>[[File:Subversive Woodworking Logo.png|frameless|center]]<blockquote> ''"With the gross failure of the intellectual class, it has fallen to the craftsman to expose the hidden power inequities of society. Subversive woodworking has to take the lead, helping people make a choice between mindless consumerism and conscious craftsmanship."'' Roy Underhill of The Woodwright's Shop</blockquote> == Our Values == Subversive Woodworking takes an explicit position on values. We don't think that these values are needed for all woodworking, but there are plenty of other woodworking groups around if these don't resonate with you. ==== The Journey Matters ==== How an item gets made is part of it's beauty. Knowing that something is crafted with love and care by someone who enjoys the work and avoids exploitation and oppression can add to it's beauty. ==== Commoning over Self-Reliance ==== Making things isn't an individual act, we live in a society and we all benefit from helping each other as we go. In particular we aren't just building a static "commons", like a shared workshop, we are actively engaged in the process of "[https://www.onthecommons.org/work/what-commoning-anyway commoning]" which is a messy, human and ever-changing co-creation of shared resources, spaces, relationships and ways of living. ==== Inclusion and Accessibility ==== Experiencing the joy of making things should be available to everyone, and so we strive to create an inclusive environment by reducing barriers to participation. This includes explicitly addressing financial accessibility in recognistion of the way that economic barriers to starting a new craft can disproportionately exclude people from groups that are marginalised within mainstream society (due to categorisations such as race, gender, sexuality, and ability). ==== Subverting Consumerism ==== When we buy mass-produced commodities, we are supporting a system that treats all labour as an interchangeable resource able to be exploited by those few owning the means of production. We promote joy in the process of creation in order to change our relationship with consumption.<blockquote>''“I want to live in a society where people are intoxicated with the joy of making things.”'' William S Coperthwaite</blockquote> == Our Craft == Our goal is to make things. Things which fill us with a sense of beauty and pride and which we enjoy having in our lives, gifting to our loved ones, or trading in our communities. ==== Projects, Tools and Techniques ==== You can make anything you want, but to get you started this site includes a library of [[Projects]]. Each woodworking project is made up of [[Techniques]] which take practice to master, and require specific [[Tools]]. You can follow your own path through these, or learn using our curated [[Journeys]] which take you through some foundational techniques and projects. 176542747bde8252d5d427740cfbabcb6ff6027c 46 45 2021-06-27T06:15:07Z Craig 1 wikitext text/x-wiki <big>Welcome to Subversive Woodworking. This is an avenue for learning accessible woodworking techniques, as well as an invitation to participate in co-creating an inclusive process of [https://www.onthecommons.org/work/what-commoning-anyway commoning] that explicitly contributes to the political project of encouraging us to value the labour of our own hands over purchased commodities.</big>[[File:Subversive Woodworking Logo.png|frameless|center]]<big>Subversive Woodworking has several ways to help you [[Getting Started|Get Started]] with hand-tool woodworking, including a one-day class to see if you like it, and an ongoing supportive group, both currently in Brunswick, VIC, Australia.</big><blockquote> ''"With the gross failure of the intellectual class, it has fallen to the craftsman to expose the hidden power inequities of society. Subversive woodworking has to take the lead, helping people make a choice between mindless consumerism and conscious craftsmanship."'' Roy Underhill of The Woodwright's Shop</blockquote> == Our Values == Subversive Woodworking takes an explicit position on values. We don't think that these values are needed for all woodworking, but there are plenty of other woodworking groups around if these don't resonate with you. ==== The Journey Matters ==== How an item gets made is part of it's beauty. Knowing that something is crafted with love and care by someone who enjoys the work and avoids exploitation and oppression can add to it's beauty. ==== Commoning over Self-Reliance ==== Making things isn't an individual act, we live in a society and we all benefit from helping each other as we go. In particular we aren't just building a static "commons", like a shared workshop, we are actively engaged in the process of "[https://www.onthecommons.org/work/what-commoning-anyway commoning]" which is a messy, human and ever-changing co-creation of shared resources, spaces, relationships and ways of living. ==== Inclusion and Accessibility ==== Experiencing the joy of making things should be available to everyone, and so we strive to create an inclusive environment by reducing barriers to participation. This includes explicitly addressing financial accessibility in recognistion of the way that economic barriers to starting a new craft can disproportionately exclude people from groups that are marginalised within mainstream society (due to categorisations such as race, gender, sexuality, and ability). ==== Subverting Consumerism ==== When we buy mass-produced commodities, we are supporting a system that treats all labour as an interchangeable resource able to be exploited by those few owning the means of production. We promote joy in the process of creation in order to change our relationship with consumption.<blockquote>''“I want to live in a society where people are intoxicated with the joy of making things.”'' William S Coperthwaite</blockquote> == Our Craft == Our goal is to make things. Things which fill us with a sense of beauty and pride and which we enjoy having in our lives, gifting to our loved ones, or trading in our communities. ==== Projects, Tools and Techniques ==== You can make anything you want, but to get you started this site includes a library of [[Projects]]. Each woodworking project is made up of [[Techniques]] which take practice to master, and require specific [[Tools]]. You can follow your own path through these, or learn using our curated [[Journeys]] which take you through some foundational techniques and projects. ==== Entry Points ==== If you're new to woodwork, you may want to read about [[Getting Started]]. 81b12ba4646f6fe16f192f0ce4572499d25417db 48 46 2021-06-27T06:35:56Z Craig 1 wikitext text/x-wiki <big>Welcome to Subversive Woodworking. This is an avenue for learning accessible woodworking techniques, as well as an invitation to participate in co-creating an inclusive process of [https://www.onthecommons.org/work/what-commoning-anyway commoning] that explicitly contributes to the political project of encouraging us to value the labour of our own hands over purchased commodities.</big>[[File:Subversive Woodworking Logo.png|frameless|center]]<big>Subversive Woodworking has several ways to help you [[Getting Started|Get Started]] with hand-tool woodworking, including a one-day class to see if you like it, and an ongoing supportive group, both currently in Brunswick, VIC, Australia.</big><blockquote> ''"With the gross failure of the intellectual class, it has fallen to the craftsman to expose the hidden power inequities of society. Subversive woodworking has to take the lead, helping people make a choice between mindless consumerism and conscious craftsmanship."'' Roy Underhill of The Woodwright's Shop</blockquote> == Our Values == Subversive Woodworking takes an explicit position on values. We don't think that these values are needed for all woodworking, but there are plenty of other woodworking groups around if these don't resonate with you. ==== The Journey Matters ==== How an item gets made is part of it's beauty. Knowing that something is crafted with love and care by someone who enjoys the work and avoids exploitation and oppression can add to it's beauty. ==== Commoning over Self-Reliance ==== Making things isn't an individual act, we live in a society and we all benefit from helping each other as we go. In particular we aren't just building a static "commons", like a shared workshop, we are actively engaged in the process of "[https://www.onthecommons.org/work/what-commoning-anyway commoning]" which is a messy, human and ever-changing co-creation of shared resources, spaces, relationships and ways of living. ==== Inclusion and Accessibility ==== Experiencing the joy of making things should be available to everyone, and so we strive to create an inclusive environment by reducing barriers to participation. This includes explicitly addressing financial accessibility in recognistion of the way that economic barriers to starting a new craft can disproportionately exclude people from groups that are marginalised within mainstream society (due to categorisations such as race, gender, sexuality, and ability). ==== Subverting Consumerism ==== When we buy mass-produced commodities, we are supporting a system that treats all labour as an interchangeable resource able to be exploited by those few owning the means of production. We promote joy in the process of creation in order to change our relationship with consumption.<blockquote>''“I want to live in a society where people are intoxicated with the joy of making things.”'' William S Coperthwaite</blockquote> == Our Craft == [[File:Moulding for chest.jpg|thumb]] Our goal is to make things. Things which fill us with a sense of beauty and pride and which we enjoy having in our lives, gifting to our loved ones, or trading in our communities. ==== Projects, Tools and Techniques ==== You can make anything you want, but to get you started this site includes a library of [[Projects]]. Each woodworking project is made up of [[Techniques]] which take practice to master, and require specific [[Tools]]. You can follow your own path through these, or learn using our curated [[Journeys]] which take you through some foundational techniques and projects. ==== Entry Points ==== If you're new to woodwork, you may want to read about [[Getting Started]]. 267b932b3fc792a545dad8a55f5a4e85d949bfec 50 48 2021-06-27T06:43:01Z Craig 1 added images wikitext text/x-wiki <big>Welcome to Subversive Woodworking. This is an avenue for learning accessible woodworking techniques, as well as an invitation to participate in co-creating an inclusive process of [https://www.onthecommons.org/work/what-commoning-anyway commoning] that explicitly contributes to the political project of encouraging us to value the labour of our own hands over purchased commodities.</big>[[File:Subversive Woodworking Logo.png|frameless|center]]<big>Subversive Woodworking has several ways to help you [[Getting Started|Get Started]] with hand-tool woodworking, including a one-day class to see if you like it, and an ongoing supportive group, both currently in Brunswick, VIC, Australia.</big><blockquote> ''"With the gross failure of the intellectual class, it has fallen to the craftsman to expose the hidden power inequities of society. Subversive woodworking has to take the lead, helping people make a choice between mindless consumerism and conscious craftsmanship."'' Roy Underhill of The Woodwright's Shop</blockquote> == Our Values == [[File:Hand on bench.jpg|right|325x325px]] Subversive Woodworking takes an explicit position on values. We don't think that these values are needed for all woodworking, but there are plenty of other woodworking groups around if these don't resonate with you. ==== The Journey Matters ==== How an item gets made is part of it's beauty. Knowing that something is crafted with love and care by someone who enjoys the work and avoids exploitation and oppression can add to it's beauty. ==== Commoning over Self-Reliance ==== Making things isn't an individual act, we live in a society and we all benefit from helping each other as we go. In particular we aren't just building a static "commons", like a shared workshop, we are actively engaged in the process of "[https://www.onthecommons.org/work/what-commoning-anyway commoning]" which is a messy, human and ever-changing co-creation of shared resources, spaces, relationships and ways of living. ==== Inclusion and Accessibility ==== Experiencing the joy of making things should be available to everyone, and so we strive to create an inclusive environment by reducing barriers to participation. This includes explicitly addressing financial accessibility in recognistion of the way that economic barriers to starting a new craft can disproportionately exclude people from groups that are marginalised within mainstream society (due to categorisations such as race, gender, sexuality, and ability). ==== Subverting Consumerism ==== When we buy mass-produced commodities, we are supporting a system that treats all labour as an interchangeable resource able to be exploited by those few owning the means of production. We promote joy in the process of creation in order to change our relationship with consumption.<blockquote>''“I want to live in a society where people are intoxicated with the joy of making things.”'' William S Coperthwaite</blockquote> == Our Craft == [[File:Moulding for chest.jpg|left|334x334px]] Our goal is to make things. Things which fill us with a sense of beauty and pride and which we enjoy having in our lives, gifting to our loved ones, or trading in our communities. ==== Projects, Tools and Techniques ==== You can make anything you want, but to get you started this site includes a library of [[Projects]]. Each woodworking project is made up of [[Techniques]] which take practice to master, and require specific [[Tools]]. You can follow your own path through these, or learn using our curated [[Journeys]] which take you through some foundational techniques and projects. ==== Entry Points ==== If you're new to woodwork, you may want to read about [[Getting Started]]. 9af2291f7b1da257c8f4bab6b5cfa35954173884 6 13 36 2021-06-26T12:04:12Z Craig 1 wikitext text/x-wiki A fist holding a hammer in front of a rising sun. 8711b301d660fa277e517145a420ad6158f0023e 6 14 47 2021-06-27T06:35:14Z Craig 1 wikitext text/x-wiki Planing an ovolo moulding for a blanket chest 1e976d3bc0cbcb6eea172e9aea87007094ac380c 6 15 49 2021-06-27T06:40:24Z Craig 1 wikitext text/x-wiki Bench surface showing a hammer and a hand while assembling salt boxes. a3802fad3dcadc2af6bd596fe11583b22349da9e 0 16 51 2021-06-27T06:54:07Z Craig 1 Created page with "As with any new craft, getting started can be the hardest part of woodworking. We think that this falls into two distinct phases: === Find Out if Woodworking is For You === O..." wikitext text/x-wiki As with any new craft, getting started can be the hardest part of woodworking. We think that this falls into two distinct phases: === Find Out if Woodworking is For You === One-off woodworking classes where you make a useful project are a great way to get started. There are lots of them around Melbourne (and elsewhere), and they are certainly worth a shop. Subversive Woodworking is no different, and we offer a one day workshop called the Bread Labour Workshop, which is an introduction to both the philosophy of subversive woodworking and a fun way to make yourself a useful bread board. We recommend this as the entry point for getting involved with subversive woodworking. === Develop the Fundamentals in a Supported Way === Once you've determined that Woodworking is for you, and that also you like your woodworking with a hand-tool focus and a sizeable portion of subversive lefty politics, it's time to work on the skills and equipment that you need to progress. This is when a lot of woodworkers stall, because as you start to research woodwork you'll find that there are hundreds of ways to do things, and thousands of things you supposedly need. If you're near our group, we'd love to work with you as you start your woodworking adventure. Our aim is to regularly meet to support each other in this, and we've specifically created the [[The Starter Toolbox]] Journey to help with this.. 5837a647b7242c6c9de89e23a1fe7557ed0f4364 53 51 2021-06-28T12:19:00Z Craig 1 wikitext text/x-wiki As with any new craft, getting started can be the hardest part of woodworking. We think that this falls into two distinct phases: === Find Out if Woodworking is For You === One-off woodworking classes where you make a useful project are a great way to get started. There are lots of them around Melbourne (and elsewhere), and they are certainly worth a shop. Subversive Woodworking is no different, and we offer a one day [[Introduction to Subversive Woodworking]] workshop. This will cover both some foundational hand-tool schools and the philosophy of subversive woodworking, as well as being a fun way to make yourself a useful bread board. We recommend this as the entry point for getting involved with subversive woodworking. === Develop the Fundamentals in a Supported Way === Once you've determined that Woodworking is for you, and that also you like your woodworking with a hand-tool focus and a sizeable portion of subversive lefty politics, it's time to work on the skills and equipment that you need to progress. This is when a lot of woodworkers stall, because as you start to research woodwork you'll find that there are hundreds of ways to do things, and thousands of things you supposedly need. If you're near our group, we'd love to work with you as you start your woodworking adventure. Our aim is to regularly meet to support each other in this, and we've specifically created the [[The Starter Toolbox]] Journey to help with this.. cce2f07666df416b55f1eb52e8e18b736161fc28 84 53 2021-08-18T04:29:05Z Craig 1 wikitext text/x-wiki As with any new craft, getting started can be the hardest part of woodworking. We think that this falls into two distinct phases. To find out about when either of these entry points will be running, '''[https://mailchi.mp/6885f65191d4/subversive-woodworking sign up to our mailing list]'''. === Find Out if Woodworking is For You === One-off woodworking classes where you make a useful project are a great way to get started. There are lots of them around Melbourne (and elsewhere), and they are certainly worth a shop. Subversive Woodworking is no different, and we offer a one day [[Introduction to Subversive Woodworking]] workshop. This will cover both some foundational hand-tool schools and the philosophy of subversive woodworking, as well as being a fun way to make yourself a useful bread board. We recommend this as the entry point for getting involved with subversive woodworking. === Develop the Fundamentals in a Supported Way === Once you've determined that Woodworking is for you, and that also you like your woodworking with a hand-tool focus and a sizeable portion of subversive lefty politics, it's time to work on the skills and equipment that you need to progress. This is when a lot of woodworkers stall, because as you start to research woodwork you'll find that there are hundreds of ways to do things, and thousands of things you supposedly need. If you're near our group, we'd love to work with you as you start your woodworking adventure. Our aim is to regularly meet to support each other in this, and we've specifically created the [[The Starter Toolbox]] Journey to help with this.. 30779e8b92478a4ab19649126003e793e4371609 0 12 52 50 2021-06-28T12:18:53Z Craig 1 wikitext text/x-wiki <big>Welcome to Subversive Woodworking. This is an avenue for learning accessible woodworking techniques, as well as an invitation to participate in co-creating an inclusive process of [https://www.onthecommons.org/work/what-commoning-anyway commoning] that explicitly contributes to the political project of encouraging us to value the labour of our own hands over purchased commodities.</big> [[File:Subversive Woodworking Logo.png|frameless|center]]<big>Subversive Woodworking has several ways to help you [[Getting Started|Get Started]] with hand-tool woodworking, including a one-day class to see if you like it, and an ongoing supportive group, both currently in Brunswick, VIC, Australia.</big><blockquote> ''"With the gross failure of the intellectual class, it has fallen to the craftsman to expose the hidden power inequities of society. Subversive woodworking has to take the lead, helping people make a choice between mindless consumerism and conscious craftsmanship."'' Roy Underhill of The Woodwright's Shop</blockquote> == Our Values == [[File:Hand on bench.jpg|right|325x325px]] Subversive Woodworking takes an explicit position on values. We don't think that these values are needed for all woodworking, but there are plenty of other woodworking groups around if these don't resonate with you. ==== The Journey Matters ==== How an item gets made is part of it's beauty. Knowing that something is crafted with love and care by someone who enjoys the work and avoids exploitation and oppression can add to it's beauty. ==== Commoning over Self-Reliance ==== Making things isn't an individual act, we live in a society and we all benefit from helping each other as we go. In particular we aren't just building a static "commons", like a shared workshop, we are actively engaged in the process of "[https://www.onthecommons.org/work/what-commoning-anyway commoning]" which is a messy, human and ever-changing co-creation of shared resources, spaces, relationships and ways of living. ==== Inclusion and Accessibility ==== Experiencing the joy of making things should be available to everyone, and so we strive to create an inclusive environment by reducing barriers to participation. This includes explicitly addressing financial accessibility in recognistion of the way that economic barriers to starting a new craft can disproportionately exclude people from groups that are marginalised within mainstream society (due to categorisations such as race, gender, sexuality, and ability). ==== Subverting Consumerism ==== When we buy mass-produced commodities, we are supporting a system that treats all labour as an interchangeable resource able to be exploited by those few owning the means of production. We promote joy in the process of creation in order to change our relationship with consumption.<blockquote>''“I want to live in a society where people are intoxicated with the joy of making things.”'' William S Coperthwaite</blockquote> == Our Craft == [[File:Moulding for chest.jpg|left|334x334px]] Our goal is to make things. Things which fill us with a sense of beauty and pride and which we enjoy having in our lives, gifting to our loved ones, or trading in our communities. ==== Projects, Tools and Techniques ==== You can make anything you want, but to get you started this site includes a library of [[Projects]]. Each woodworking project is made up of [[Techniques]] which take practice to master, and require specific [[Tools]]. You can follow your own path through these, or learn using our curated [[Journeys]] which take you through some foundational techniques and projects. ==== Entry Points ==== If you're new to woodwork, you may want to read about [[Getting Started]]. 704d68cfa84a4fbe0c3ea5267ddfb4303a59b0c2 56 52 2021-06-28T23:56:27Z Craig 1 wikitext text/x-wiki <big>Welcome to Subversive Woodworking. This is an avenue for learning accessible woodworking techniques, as well as an invitation to participate in co-creating an inclusive process of [https://www.onthecommons.org/work/what-commoning-anyway commoning] that explicitly contributes to the political project of encouraging us to value the labour of our own hands over purchased commodities.</big> [[File:Subversive Woodworking Logo.png|frameless|center]]<big>Subversive Woodworking has several ways to help you [[Getting Started|Get Started]] with hand-tool woodworking, including a one-day class to see if you like it, and an ongoing supportive group, both currently in Brunswick, VIC, Australia.</big><blockquote> ''"With the gross failure of the intellectual class, it has fallen to the craftsman to expose the hidden power inequities of society. Subversive woodworking has to take the lead, helping people make a choice between mindless consumerism and conscious craftsmanship."'' Roy Underhill of The Woodwright's Shop</blockquote> == Our Values == [[File:Hand on bench.jpg|right|325x325px]] Subversive Woodworking takes an explicit position on values. We don't think that these values are needed for all woodworking, but there are plenty of other woodworking groups around if these don't resonate with you. ==== The Journey Matters ==== How an item gets made is part of it's beauty. Knowing that something is crafted with love and care by someone who enjoys the work and avoids exploitation and oppression can add to it's beauty. ==== Commoning over Self-Reliance ==== Making things isn't an individual act, we live in a society and we all benefit from helping each other as we go. In particular we aren't just building a static "commons", like a shared workshop, we are actively engaged in the process of "[https://www.onthecommons.org/work/what-commoning-anyway commoning]" which is a messy, human and ever-changing co-creation of shared resources, spaces, relationships and ways of living. ==== Inclusion and Accessibility ==== Experiencing the joy of making things should be available to everyone, and so we strive to create an inclusive environment by reducing barriers to participation. This includes explicitly addressing financial accessibility in recognition of the way that economic barriers to starting a new craft can disproportionately exclude people from groups that are marginalised within mainstream society (due to categorisations such as race, gender, sexuality, and ability). ==== Subverting Consumerism ==== When we buy mass-produced commodities, we are supporting a system that treats all labour as an interchangeable resource able to be exploited by those few owning the means of production. We promote joy in the process of creation in order to change our relationship with consumption.<blockquote>''“I want to live in a society where people are intoxicated with the joy of making things.”'' William S Coperthwaite</blockquote> == Our Craft == [[File:Moulding for chest.jpg|left|334x334px]] Our goal is to make things. Things which fill us with a sense of beauty and pride and which we enjoy having in our lives, gifting to our loved ones, or trading in our communities. ==== Projects, Tools and Techniques ==== You can make anything you want, but to get you started this site includes a library of [[Projects]]. Each woodworking project is made up of [[Techniques]] which take practice to master, and require specific [[Tools]]. You can follow your own path through these, or learn using our curated [[Journeys]] which take you through some foundational techniques and projects. ==== Entry Points ==== If you're new to woodwork, you may want to read about [[Getting Started]]. 27d854a74a5af5233a238ba4f07658cdf42ff559 83 56 2021-08-18T04:27:05Z Craig 1 wikitext text/x-wiki <big>Welcome to Subversive Woodworking. This is an avenue for learning accessible woodworking techniques, as well as an invitation to participate in co-creating an inclusive process of [https://www.onthecommons.org/work/what-commoning-anyway commoning] that explicitly contributes to the political project of encouraging us to value the labour of our own hands over purchased commodities.</big> [[File:Subversive Woodworking Logo.png|frameless|center]]<big>Subversive Woodworking has several ways to help you [[Getting Started|Get Started]] with hand-tool woodworking, including a one-day class to see if you like it, and an ongoing supportive group, both currently in Brunswick, VIC, Australia.</big><blockquote> ''"With the gross failure of the intellectual class, it has fallen to the craftsman to expose the hidden power inequities of society. Subversive woodworking has to take the lead, helping people make a choice between mindless consumerism and conscious craftsmanship."'' Roy Underhill of The Woodwright's Shop</blockquote>'''<big>[https://mailchi.mp/6885f65191d4/subversive-woodworking Click here to sign up for updates on our volunteer-run classes]</big>''' == Our Values == [[File:Hand on bench.jpg|right|325x325px]] Subversive Woodworking takes an explicit position on values. We don't think that these values are needed for all woodworking, but there are plenty of other woodworking groups around if these don't resonate with you. ==== The Journey Matters ==== How an item gets made is part of it's beauty. Knowing that something is crafted with love and care by someone who enjoys the work and avoids exploitation and oppression can add to it's beauty. ==== Commoning over Self-Reliance ==== Making things isn't an individual act, we live in a society and we all benefit from helping each other as we go. In particular we aren't just building a static "commons", like a shared workshop, we are actively engaged in the process of "[https://www.onthecommons.org/work/what-commoning-anyway commoning]" which is a messy, human and ever-changing co-creation of shared resources, spaces, relationships and ways of living. ==== Inclusion and Accessibility ==== Experiencing the joy of making things should be available to everyone, and so we strive to create an inclusive environment by reducing barriers to participation. This includes explicitly addressing financial accessibility in recognition of the way that economic barriers to starting a new craft can disproportionately exclude people from groups that are marginalised within mainstream society (due to categorisations such as race, gender, sexuality, and ability). ==== Subverting Consumerism ==== When we buy mass-produced commodities, we are supporting a system that treats all labour as an interchangeable resource able to be exploited by those few owning the means of production. We promote joy in the process of creation in order to change our relationship with consumption.<blockquote>''“I want to live in a society where people are intoxicated with the joy of making things.”'' William S Coperthwaite</blockquote> == Our Craft == [[File:Moulding for chest.jpg|left|334x334px]] Our goal is to make things. Things which fill us with a sense of beauty and pride and which we enjoy having in our lives, gifting to our loved ones, or trading in our communities. ==== Projects, Tools and Techniques ==== You can make anything you want, but to get you started this site includes a library of [[Projects]]. Each woodworking project is made up of [[Techniques]] which take practice to master, and require specific [[Tools]]. You can follow your own path through these, or learn using our curated [[Journeys]] which take you through some foundational techniques and projects. ==== Entry Points ==== If you're new to woodwork, you may want to read about [[Getting Started]]. 9595885a5a04a20c0c3e0a48f48d4865d17bcf70 0 17 54 2021-06-28T12:42:41Z Craig 1 Created page with "<big>Welcome to this introductory '''''Subversive Woodworking''''' workshop. We’ll be building a breadboard.</big> <big>This is a great way to get started with learning '''..." wikitext text/x-wiki <big>Welcome to this introductory '''''Subversive Woodworking''''' workshop. We’ll be building a breadboard.</big> <big>This is a great way to get started with learning '''''Woodworking'''''. We start from scratch with a rough board, and turn it into something smooth and beautiful. Squaring timber with hand planes is also the foundational step for most other woodworking projects.</big> <big>Building this breadboard is also a '''''Subversive''''' act because you’re creating something that fulfills real material need without purchasing a commodity produced to make a profit. What’s more, you're spending your time in an activity that provides joy in the act of creation rather than consumption.</big> === Techniques Covered === * [[Course Crosscut]] * [[Face Planing]] * [[Edge Planing]] * [[Reference Marks]] * [[Four-Square Stock]] * [[Shooting End-Grain]] * [[Arrising]] === Details === This is a single-afternoon workshop for a small group, running from 1pm - 4:30pm with afternoon tea provided. It will run several times per year in Brunswick West. Cost is $50 waged, $25 unwaged or first-nations. Twenty percent of the cost goes to [https://paytherent.net.au/ Pay the Rent]. The rest of the cost covers project materials, and afternoon tea, with any left over going to the subversive woodworking common fund to help make future programs more accessible. Teaching is provided free of charge. === Register Your Interest === To find out the next workshop date and register your interest, please leave your details at [mailto:craig@craigambrose.com craig@craigambrose.com]. 6a69648b43a11c4f78bbe9cb758687ea47d015df 0 2 55 26 2021-06-28T23:37:51Z Craig 1 wikitext text/x-wiki === Stock Preparation === * Understanding Grain *[[Face Planing]] * [[Edge Planing]] * [[Reference Marks]] * [[Four-Square Stock]] * [[Shooting End-Grain]] * Wood Movement === Sawing === * [[Course Crosscut]] * Medium Crosscut * Fine Crosscut * Rip Cut * Re-saw === Carcass Joinery === * End-Grain Rebate (Chiselled) * Rebate (Planed) * Groove * [[Dado]] * Stopped Dado * Sliding Dovetail * Stopped Sliding Dovetail * Tapered Sliding Dovetail * Through Dovetail * Half-Blind Dovetail === Fastening === * [[Nailing with Cut Nails]] * [[Clinched Nailing]] * Skew Nailing * Screwing === Finishing === * [[Arrising]] *[[Linseed Oil Finish]] 86c43fb179e513ef710390a77ea330b28fe503f2 75 55 2021-08-14T06:40:55Z Craig 1 wikitext text/x-wiki === Stock Preparation === * Understanding Grain *[[Face Planing]] * [[Edge Planing]] * [[Reference Marks]] * [[Four-Square Stock]] * [[Shooting End-Grain]] * Wood Movement === Sawing === * [[Course Crosscut]] * Medium Crosscut * [[Fine Crosscut]] * Rip Cut * Re-saw === Carcass Joinery === * End-Grain Rebate (Chiselled) * Rebate (Planed) * Groove * [[Dado]] * Stopped Dado * Sliding Dovetail * Stopped Sliding Dovetail * Tapered Sliding Dovetail * Through Dovetail * Half-Blind Dovetail === Fastening === * [[Nailing with Cut Nails]] * [[Clinched Nailing]] * Skew Nailing * Screwing === Finishing === * [[Arrising]] *[[Linseed Oil Finish]] dd8554c99a63bf47a528578e2fdff98efa2b5e5a 76 75 2021-08-14T06:49:22Z Craig 1 wikitext text/x-wiki === Stock Preparation === * Understanding Grain *[[Face Planing]] * [[Edge Planing]] * [[Reference Marks]] * [[Four-Square Stock]] * [[Shooting End-Grain]] * Wood Movement === Sawing === * [[Course Crosscut]] * Medium Crosscut * [[Fine Crosscut]] * Rip Cut * Re-saw === Carcass Joinery === * End-Grain Rebate (Chiselled) * Rebate (Planed) * Groove * [[Dado]] * Stopped Dado * Sliding Dovetail * Stopped Sliding Dovetail * Tapered Sliding Dovetail * Through Dovetail * Half-Blind Dovetail === Frame Joinery === * Mortise and Tenon * Through Tenon * [[Bridle Joint]] === Fastening === * [[Nailing with Cut Nails]] * [[Clinched Nailing]] * Skew Nailing * Screwing === Finishing === * [[Arrising]] *[[Linseed Oil Finish]] d9b685fda5fae3464085aada45bd4cfd61c3ef09 6 18 57 2021-07-18T23:30:39Z Craig 1 wikitext text/x-wiki Example of a Mikov marking knife blade fitted with wooden handle, provided by Taylor Toolworks 6d8fe4103b9078aa473b10055883d146b726244c 0 19 58 2021-07-18T23:33:26Z Craig 1 Created page with "File:Mikov-marking-knife-taylor-toolworks.png|alt=A spear-pointed marking knife blade, fitted between two pieces of wood to provide a handle.|thumb|Spear pointed Mikov marki..." wikitext text/x-wiki [[File:Mikov-marking-knife-taylor-toolworks.png|alt=A spear-pointed marking knife blade, fitted between two pieces of wood to provide a handle.|thumb|Spear pointed Mikov marking knife with wooden handle, example provided by Taylor Toolworks]] == Materials == * Blade - For example [https://taytools.com/products/mikov-unhandled-thin-blade-dual-bevel-marking-knife-kit-with-finger-indents-0-060-thick-blade?pr_prod_strat=copurchase&pr_rec_pid=4483038117975&pr_ref_pid=4623287550039&pr_seq=uniform this Mikov blade.] * Brass Pins * Two-part epoxy glue * Wood of your choice 17fdf0d7027d0ccf631fab31a5c98db41967575c 59 58 2021-07-22T06:57:02Z Craig 1 wikitext text/x-wiki [[File:Mikov-marking-knife-taylor-toolworks.png|alt=A spear-pointed marking knife blade, fitted between two pieces of wood to provide a handle.|thumb|Spear pointed Mikov marking knife with wooden handle, example provided by Taylor Toolworks]] == Materials == * Blade - For example [https://taytools.com/products/mikov-unhandled-thin-blade-dual-bevel-marking-knife-kit-with-finger-indents-0-060-thick-blade?pr_prod_strat=copurchase&pr_rec_pid=4483038117975&pr_ref_pid=4623287550039&pr_seq=uniform this Mikov blade.] * Brass Pins * Two-part epoxy glue * Wood of your choice This project is part of [[The Starter Toolbox]] journey. 104c82d79944f9c8ae0663134e7252e71e7e7efc 0 20 60 2021-07-22T06:57:59Z Craig 1 Created page with "This project is part of [[The Starter Toolbox]] journey. No one in the group has made this yet, but this seems like a good video to try: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cxNpw..." wikitext text/x-wiki This project is part of [[The Starter Toolbox]] journey. No one in the group has made this yet, but this seems like a good video to try: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cxNpwOiF5zQ bad570635ed92ad8d320ca02cbe13d014d28f247 73 60 2021-08-14T06:30:23Z Craig 1 draft steps wikitext text/x-wiki This project is part of [[The Starter Toolbox]] journey. No one in the group has made this yet, but this seems like a good video to try: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cxNpwOiF5zQ === Key Terms: === insert labelled diagram - Handle (also called the 'stock' or the 'post') - Blade - [http://www.woodworkbasics.com/bridle-joint.html Bridle joint] (a notch, also called the mortise, in the handle for the blade to fit into). - Inside corner of square (90 degrees) - Outside of square - Dowel Pins === Tools & Materials: === - Two different pieces of wood, cut to size (see example) - a thicker piece for the handle and a thinner one for the blade. Example dimensions: Handle: 3/4" thick x 2" wide x 5" long; Blade: 1/4" thick x 2.5" wide x 10" long - Rip saw / Tenon saw - Chisel (same size as notch) - Smoothing plane - Glue (slow-setting, e.g., PVA) - Dowel pins x 2 === Steps: === Step 1: Decide on the size of the try square (it can be useful to have multiple try squares of different sizes). Step 2: Cut handle and blade to length and prepare (if not already provided as such) Step 3: Prepare the handle and blade for the bridle joint: - 3a: Measure the notch for the bridle joint in the end of the handle - 3b: Saw the notch from the handle - 3c: True the floor of the notch with the chisel - 3d: Plane the end of the blade until it slips into the notch without bending the two forks of the notch Step 4: Join the handle and the blade - note this is a 3-step process, the first two steps need to be done together. - 4a: Glue the planed-end of the blade into the notch prepared in the handle - 4b: ''Before the glue sets'', manipulate the blade and handle so that the inside corner of the square is a true 90 degrees. - 4c: After the glue sets, insert two dowels into the join to pin the handle and blade together. Step 5: True the outside of the square (and re-check that the inside of the square is true as well). e57e2aecb91fe6e05413192b67c11b9939b35e92 74 73 2021-08-14T06:34:45Z Craig 1 wikitext text/x-wiki This project is part of [[The Starter Toolbox]] journey. === Key Terms: === insert labelled diagram - Handle (also called the 'stock' or the 'post') - Blade - [http://www.woodworkbasics.com/bridle-joint.html Bridle joint] (a notch, also called the mortise, in the handle for the blade to fit into). - Inside corner of square (90 degrees) - Outside of square - Dowel Pins === Tools & Materials: === - Two different pieces of wood, cut to size (see example) - a thicker piece for the handle and a thinner one for the blade. Example dimensions: Handle: 3/4" thick x 2" wide x 5" long; Blade: 1/4" thick x 2.5" wide x 10" long - Rip saw / Tenon saw - Chisel (same size as notch) - Smoothing plane - Glue (slow-setting, e.g., PVA) - Dowel pins x 2 === Steps: === Step 1: Decide on the size of the try square (it can be useful to have multiple try squares of different sizes). Step 2: Cut handle and blade to length and prepare (if not already provided as such) Step 3: Prepare the handle and blade for the bridle joint: - 3a: Measure the notch for the bridle joint in the end of the handle - 3b: Saw the notch from the handle - 3c: True the floor of the notch with the chisel - 3d: Plane the end of the blade until it slips into the notch without bending the two forks of the notch Step 4: Join the handle and the blade - note this is a 3-step process, the first two steps need to be done together. - 4a: Glue the planed-end of the blade into the notch prepared in the handle - 4b: ''Before the glue sets'', manipulate the blade and handle so that the inside corner of the square is a true 90 degrees. - 4c: After the glue sets, insert two dowels into the join to pin the handle and blade together. Step 5: True the outside of the square (and re-check that the inside of the square is true as well). === Further resources: === - [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cxNpwOiF5zQ Wood by Wright instructional video] - [https://www.instructables.com/Wooden-Try-Square/ Instructables step-by-step written guide] === Examples: === No one in the group has made this yet. f6a6449e19a58d0a1adf3b70c7a82d66aab03d00 77 74 2021-08-14T06:53:26Z Craig 1 wikitext text/x-wiki This project is part of [[The Starter Toolbox]] journey. === Key Terms === insert labelled diagram * Handle (also called the 'stock' or the 'post') * Blade * Inside corner of square (90 degrees) * Outside of square * Dowel Pins === Techniques === * [[Bridle Joint]] (a notch, also called the mortise, in the handle for the blade to fit into). * [[Fine Crosscut]] * [[Face Planing]] === Tools & Materials === Two different pieces of wood, cut to size (see example) - a thicker piece for the handle and a thinner one for the blade. Example dimensions: Handle: 3/4" thick x 2" wide x 5" long; Blade: 1/4" thick x 2.5" wide x 10" long * Tenon saw (a medium/large rip saw) * Carcass Saw (a medium crosscut saw) * Chisel (same size as notch) * Smoothing plane * Glue (slow-setting, e.g., PVA) * Dowel pins x 2 * Marking knife * Try square === Steps === * Step 1: Decide on the size of the try square (it can be useful to have multiple try squares of different sizes). * Step 2: Cut handle and blade to length using a [[Fine Crosscut]] * Step 3: Prepare the handle and blade for the [[Bridle Joint]]: ** 3a: Measure the notch for the bridle joint in the end of the handle ** 3b: Saw the notch from the handle ** 3c: True the floor of the notch with the chisel ** 3d: [[Face Planing|Face Plane]] the end of the blade until it slips into the notch without bending the two forks of the notch * Step 4: Join the handle and the blade - note this is a 3-step process, the first two steps need to be done together. ** 4a: Glue the planed-end of the blade into the notch prepared in the handle ** 4b: ''Before the glue sets'', manipulate the blade and handle so that the inside corner of the square is a true 90 degrees. ** 4c: After the glue sets, insert two dowels into the join to pin the handle and blade together. * Step 5: True the outside of the square (and re-check that the inside of the square is true as well). === Further resources: === - [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cxNpwOiF5zQ Wood by Wright instructional video] - [https://www.instructables.com/Wooden-Try-Square/ Instructables step-by-step written guide] === Examples: === No one in the group has made this yet. 15971df04bf50cf94a4e54e74c678fac41544d4c 78 77 2021-08-14T12:54:50Z Tariq 3 wikitext text/x-wiki This project is part of [[The Starter Toolbox]] journey. === Key Terms === insert labelled diagram * Handle (also called the 'stock' or the 'post') * Blade *Notch * Inside corner of square (90 degrees) * Outside of square * Dowel Pins === Techniques === * [[Bridle Joint]] (a notch, also called the mortise, in the handle for the blade to fit into). * [[Fine Crosscut]] * [[Face Planing]] === Tools & Materials === Two different pieces of wood, cut to size (see example) - a thicker piece for the handle and a thinner one for the blade. Example dimensions: Handle: 3/4" thick x 2" wide x 5" long; Blade: 1/4" thick x 2.5" wide x 10" long * Tenon saw (a medium/large rip saw) * Carcass Saw (a medium crosscut saw) * Chisel (same size as notch) * Smoothing plane * Glue (slow-setting, e.g., PVA) * Dowel pins x 2 * Marking knife * Try square === Steps === * Step 1: Decide on the size of the try square (it can be useful to have multiple try squares of different sizes). * Step 2: Cut handle and blade to length using a [[Fine Crosscut]] * Step 3: Prepare the handle and blade for the [[Bridle Joint]]: ** 3a: Measure the notch for the bridle joint in the end of the handle ** 3b: Saw the notch from the handle ** 3c: True the floor of the notch with the chisel ** 3d: [[Face Planing|Face Plane]] the end of the blade until it slips into the notch without bending the two forks of the notch * Step 4: Join the handle and the blade - note this is a 3-step process, the first two steps need to be done together: ** 4a: Glue the planed-end of the blade into the notch prepared in the handle ** 4b: ''Before the glue sets'', manipulate the blade and handle so that the inside corner of the square is a true 90 degrees. ** 4c: After the glue sets, insert two dowels into the join to pin the handle and blade together. * Step 5: True the outside of the square (and re-check that the inside of the square is true as well). === Further resources: === - [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cxNpwOiF5zQ Wood by Wright instructional video] - [https://www.instructables.com/Wooden-Try-Square/ Instructables step-by-step written guide] === Examples: === No one in the group has made this yet. cffd8867c51c12964cc39278276ed40897745f42 80 78 2021-08-14T13:15:10Z Tariq 3 wikitext text/x-wiki This project is part of [[The Starter Toolbox]] journey. A try square is used for marking and checking 90° angles on pieces of wood. The ''square'' in the name refers to the 90° angle. To ''try'' a piece of wood is to check if the edges and faces are straight, flat, and square to one another. A try square is made of two key parts fixed together at 90° to form an 'L' shape. [[File:ExplodedTrySquare.png|thumb|Exploded image of wooden try square]] === Key Terms === * Handle (also called the 'stock' or the 'post') * Blade (also called the 'beam' or 'toungue') *Notch * Inside corner of square (90 degrees) * Outside of square * Dowel Pins === Techniques === * [[Bridle Joint]] * [[Fine Crosscut]] * [[Face Planing]] === Tools & Materials === Two different pieces of wood, cut to size (see example) - a thicker piece for the handle and a thinner one for the blade. Example dimensions: Handle: 3/4" thick x 2" wide x 5" long; Blade: 1/4" thick x 2.5" wide x 10" long * Tenon saw (a medium/large rip saw) * Carcass Saw (a medium crosscut saw) * Chisel (same size as notch) * Smoothing plane * Glue (slow-setting, e.g., PVA) * Dowel pins x 2 * Marking knife * Try square === Steps === * Step 1: Decide on the size of the try square (it can be useful to have multiple try squares of different sizes). * Step 2: Cut handle and blade to length using a [[Fine Crosscut]] * Step 3: Prepare the handle and blade for the [[Bridle Joint]]: ** 3a: Measure the notch for the bridle joint in the end of the handle ** 3b: Saw the notch from the handle ** 3c: True the floor of the notch with the chisel ** 3d: [[Face Planing|Face Plane]] the end of the blade until it slips into the notch without bending the two forks of the notch * Step 4: Join the handle and the blade - note this is a 3-step process, the first two steps need to be done together: ** 4a: Glue the planed-end of the blade into the notch prepared in the handle ** 4b: ''Before the glue sets'', manipulate the blade and handle so that the inside corner of the square is a true 90 degrees. ** 4c: After the glue sets, insert two dowels into the join to pin the handle and blade together. * Step 5: True the outside of the square (and re-check that the inside of the square is true as well). === Further resources: === - [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cxNpwOiF5zQ Wood by Wright instructional video] - [https://www.instructables.com/Wooden-Try-Square/ Instructables step-by-step written guide] - [https://www.craftsmanspace.com/free-projects/try-square-plan.html Craftsmanspace step-by-step written guide with diagrams] === Examples: === No one in the group has made this yet. 00a563779db4b6a1baeb25d613f9bc7de470bbf1 81 80 2021-08-14T13:18:50Z Tariq 3 wikitext text/x-wiki This project is part of [[The Starter Toolbox]] journey. A try square is used for marking and checking 90° angles on pieces of wood. The ''square'' in the name refers to the 90° angle. To ''try'' a piece of wood is to check if the edges and faces are straight, flat, and square to one another. A try square is made of two key parts fixed together at 90° to form an 'L' shape. [[File:ExplodedTrySquare.png|thumb|Exploded image of wooden try square]] === Key Terms === * Handle (also called the 'stock' or the 'post') * Blade (also called the 'beam' or 'tongue') *Notch (cut into handle for the blade to fit into) * Inside corner of square (90 degrees) * Outside of square * Dowel Pins === Techniques === * [[Bridle Joint]] * [[Fine Crosscut]] * [[Face Planing]] === Tools & Materials === Two different pieces of wood, cut to size - a thicker piece for the handle and a thinner one for the blade. Example dimensions: Handle: 3/4" thick x 2" wide x 5" long; Blade: 1/4" thick x 2.5" wide x 10" long * Tenon saw (a medium/large rip saw) * Carcass Saw (a medium crosscut saw) * Chisel (same size as notch) * Smoothing plane * Glue (slow-setting, e.g., PVA) * Dowel pins x 2 * Marking knife * Try square === Steps === * Step 1: Decide on the size of the try square (it can be useful to have multiple try squares of different sizes). * Step 2: Cut handle and blade to length using a [[Fine Crosscut]] * Step 3: Prepare the handle and blade for the [[Bridle Joint]]: ** 3a: Measure the notch for the bridle joint in the end of the handle ** 3b: Saw the notch from the handle ** 3c: True the floor of the notch with the chisel ** 3d: [[Face Planing|Face Plane]] the end of the blade until it slips into the notch without bending the two forks of the notch * Step 4: Join the handle and the blade - note this is a 3-step process, the first two steps need to be done together: ** 4a: Glue the planed-end of the blade into the notch prepared in the handle ** 4b: ''Before the glue sets'', manipulate the blade and handle so that the inside corner of the square is a true 90 degrees. ** 4c: After the glue sets, insert two dowels into the join to pin the handle and blade together. * Step 5: True the outside of the square (and re-check that the inside of the square is true as well). === Further resources: === - [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cxNpwOiF5zQ Wood by Wright instructional video] - [https://www.instructables.com/Wooden-Try-Square/ Instructables step-by-step written guide] - [https://www.craftsmanspace.com/free-projects/try-square-plan.html Craftsmanspace step-by-step written guide with diagrams] === Examples: === No one in the group has made this yet. 6c801cb47b62e1d4ed9d166a0edfad865d2c1e74 82 81 2021-08-14T13:20:12Z Tariq 3 wikitext text/x-wiki This project is part of [[The Starter Toolbox]] journey. A try square is used for marking and checking 90° angles on pieces of wood. The ''square'' in the name refers to the 90° angle. To ''try'' a piece of wood is to check if the edges and faces are straight, flat, and square to one another. A try square is made of two key parts fixed together at 90° to form an 'L' shape. [[File:ExplodedTrySquare.png|thumb|Exploded image of wooden try square]] === Key Terms === * Handle (also called the 'stock' or the 'post') * Blade (also called the 'beam' or 'tongue' or 'straight edge') *Notch (cut into handle for the blade to fit into) * Inside corner of square (90 degrees) * Outside of square * Dowel Pins === Techniques === * [[Bridle Joint]] * [[Fine Crosscut]] * [[Face Planing]] === Tools & Materials === Two different pieces of wood, cut to size - a thicker piece for the handle and a thinner one for the blade. Example dimensions: Handle: 3/4" thick x 2" wide x 5" long; Blade: 1/4" thick x 2.5" wide x 10" long * Tenon saw (a medium/large rip saw) * Carcass Saw (a medium crosscut saw) * Chisel (same size as notch) * Smoothing plane * Glue (slow-setting, e.g., PVA) * Dowel pins x 2 * Marking knife * Try square === Steps === * Step 1: Decide on the size of the try square (it can be useful to have multiple try squares of different sizes). * Step 2: Cut handle and blade to length using a [[Fine Crosscut]] * Step 3: Prepare the handle and blade for the [[Bridle Joint]]: ** 3a: Measure the notch for the bridle joint in the end of the handle ** 3b: Saw the notch from the handle ** 3c: True the floor of the notch with the chisel ** 3d: [[Face Planing|Face Plane]] the end of the blade until it slips into the notch without bending the two forks of the notch * Step 4: Join the handle and the blade - note this is a 3-step process, the first two steps need to be done together: ** 4a: Glue the planed-end of the blade into the notch prepared in the handle ** 4b: ''Before the glue sets'', manipulate the blade and handle so that the inside corner of the square is a true 90 degrees. ** 4c: After the glue sets, insert two dowels into the join to pin the handle and blade together. * Step 5: True the outside of the square (and re-check that the inside of the square is true as well). === Further resources: === - [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cxNpwOiF5zQ Wood by Wright instructional video] - [https://www.instructables.com/Wooden-Try-Square/ Instructables step-by-step written guide] - [https://www.craftsmanspace.com/free-projects/try-square-plan.html Craftsmanspace step-by-step written guide with diagrams] === Examples: === No one in the group has made this yet. a5699c21fe2c50a9ab2ace2e5304a8d73bd6f746 87 82 2021-08-24T11:39:20Z Tariq 3 wikitext text/x-wiki This project is part of [[The Starter Toolbox]] journey. A try square is used for marking and checking 90° angles on pieces of wood. The ''square'' in the name refers to the 90° angle. To ''try'' a piece of wood is to check if the edges and faces are straight, flat, and square to one another. A try square is made of two key parts fixed together at 90° to form an 'L' shape. [[File:ExplodedTrySquare.png|thumb|Exploded image of wooden try square]] === Key Terms === * Handle (also called the 'stock' or the 'post') * Blade (also called the 'beam' or 'tongue' or 'straight edge') *Notch (cut into handle for the blade to fit into) * Inside corner of square (90 degrees) * Outside of square * Dowel Pins === Techniques === * [[Bridle Joint]] * [[Fine Crosscut]] * [[Face Planing]] [[File:Signal-2021-08-24-210045 004 (2).jpg|thumb|Example of wood prepared for the handle, blade, and dowels of a try plane prior to cutting to size.]] === Tools & Materials === * Two different pieces of wood, cut to size - a thicker piece for the handle and a thinner one for the blade. Example dimensions: Handle: 3/4" thick x 2" wide x 5" long; Blade: 1/4" thick x 2.5" wide x 10" long *Dowel pins x 2 *Try square *Marking knife *Marking gauge *Tenon saw (a medium/large rip saw) * Carcass saw (a medium crosscut saw) *Coping saw (optional) * Chisel (same size as notch) * Smoothing plane *Glue (slow-setting, e.g., PVA) *Pencil === Steps === * Step 1: Decide on the size of the try square (it can be useful to have multiple try squares of different sizes). * Step 2: Mark the lengths required on each piece of wood (both the handle and blade) using the marking knife and pencil *Step 2: Cut handle and blade to their respective lengths using a [[Fine Crosscut]] * Step 3: Prepare the handle and blade for the [[Bridle Joint]]: ** 3a: Measure the notch for the bridle joint in the end of the handle (using the marking gauge to measure two parallel lines into the end of the handle to the depth of 3/4th that of the blade width, and the same width as the thickness of the blade, drawing a cross-hatch on the 'waste section' in the middle that will be removed to create the notch). ** 3b: Use the Tenon saw to cut each of the parallel lines previously marked into the handle. **3c: Using the Coping saw, remove the bulk of waste section to leave the two forks of the notch (optional). ** 3d: True the floor of the notch with the chisel (by carefully removing any remaining waste section with the chisel so that the floor of the notch is flat). **3e: Carefully test how far off the blade is from slipping into the notch without bending the two forks of the notch and then [[Face Planing|Face Plane]] the end of the blade until it does. * Step 4: Join the handle and the blade - note this is a 3-step process, the first two steps need to be done together: ** 4a: Glue the planed-end of the blade into the notch prepared in the handle ** 4b: ''Before the glue sets'', manipulate the blade and handle so that the inside corner of the square is a true 90 degrees. ** 4c: After the glue sets, insert two dowels into the join to pin the handle and blade together. * Step 5: True the outside of the square (and re-check that the inside of the square is true as well). === Further resources: === - [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cxNpwOiF5zQ Wood by Wright instructional video] - [https://www.instructables.com/Wooden-Try-Square/ Instructables step-by-step written guide] - [https://www.craftsmanspace.com/free-projects/try-square-plan.html Craftsmanspace step-by-step written guide with diagrams] === Examples: === No one in the group has made this yet. e8c0c1752932c883077914c711d76565851cbbcb 89 87 2021-08-24T11:51:27Z Tariq 3 added images and extra detail to steps wikitext text/x-wiki This project is part of [[The Starter Toolbox]] journey. A try square is used for marking and checking 90° angles on pieces of wood. The ''square'' in the name refers to the 90° angle. To ''try'' a piece of wood is to check if the edges and faces are straight, flat, and square to one another. A try square is made of two key parts fixed together at 90° to form an 'L' shape. [[File:ExplodedTrySquare.png|thumb|Exploded image of wooden try square]] === Key Terms === * Handle (also called the 'stock' or the 'post') * Blade (also called the 'beam' or 'tongue' or 'straight edge') *Notch (cut into handle for the blade to fit into) * Inside corner of square (90 degrees) * Outside of square * Dowel Pins === Techniques === * [[Bridle Joint]] * [[Fine Crosscut]] * [[Face Planing]] [[File:Signal-2021-08-24-210045 004 (2).jpg|thumb|Example of wood prepared for the handle, blade, and dowels of a try plane prior to cutting to size.]] === Tools & Materials === * Two different pieces of wood, cut to size - a thicker piece for the handle and a thinner one for the blade. Example dimensions: Handle: 3/4" thick x 2" wide x 5" long; Blade: 1/4" thick x 2.5" wide x 10" long *Dowel pins x 2 *Try square *Marking knife *Marking gauge *Tenon saw (a medium/large rip saw) * Carcass saw (a medium crosscut saw) *Coping saw (optional) * Chisel (same size as notch) * Smoothing plane *Glue (slow-setting, e.g., PVA) *Pencil === Steps === * Step 1: Decide on the size of the try square (it can be useful to have multiple try squares of different sizes). * Step 2: Mark the lengths required on each piece of wood (both the handle and blade) using the marking knife and pencil *Step 2: Cut handle and blade to their respective lengths using a [[Fine Crosscut]] *Step 3: Prepare the handle and blade for the [[Bridle Joint]]: ** 3a: Measure the notch for the bridle joint in the end of the handle (using the marking gauge to measure two parallel lines into the end of the handle to the depth of 3/4th that of the blade width, and the same width as the thickness of the blade.[[File:TryPlace marking the notch.jpg|thumb|Example of a the notch marked out ready to cut in the end of a handle ]] ** 3b: Use the Tenon saw to cut each of the parallel lines previously marked into the handle. **3c: Using the Coping saw, remove the bulk of the middle section to leave the two forks of the notch. ** 3d: True the floor of the notch with the chisel (by carefully removing any remaining waste section with the chisel so that the floor of the notch is flat). ** **3e: Carefully test how far off the blade is from slipping into the notch without bending the two forks of the notch and then [[Face Planing|Face Plane]] the end of the blade until it does. * Step 4: Join the handle and the blade - note this is a 3-step process, the first two steps need to be done together: ** 4a: Glue the planed-end of the blade into the notch prepared in the handle ** 4b: ''Before the glue sets'', manipulate the blade and handle so that the inside corner of the square is a true 90 degrees. ** 4c: After the glue sets, insert two dowels into the join to pin the handle and blade together. * Step 5: True the outside of the square (and re-check that the inside of the square is true as well). === Further resources: === - [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cxNpwOiF5zQ Wood by Wright instructional video] - [https://www.instructables.com/Wooden-Try-Square/ Instructables step-by-step written guide] - [https://www.craftsmanspace.com/free-projects/try-square-plan.html Craftsmanspace step-by-step written guide with diagrams] === Examples: === No one in the group has made this yet. dcb00d1c403dfbeac8d7c2de3a2ace3430de336a 90 89 2021-08-24T11:54:51Z Tariq 3 wikitext text/x-wiki This project is part of [[The Starter Toolbox]] journey. A try square is used for marking and checking 90° angles on pieces of wood. The ''square'' in the name refers to the 90° angle. To ''try'' a piece of wood is to check if the edges and faces are straight, flat, and square to one another. A try square is made of two key parts fixed together at 90° to form an 'L' shape. [[File:ExplodedTrySquare.png|thumb|Exploded image of wooden try square]] === Key Terms === * Handle (also called the 'stock' or the 'post') * Blade (also called the 'beam' or 'tongue' or 'straight edge') *Notch (cut into handle for the blade to fit into) * Inside corner of square (90 degrees) * Outside of square * Dowel Pins === Techniques === * [[Bridle Joint]] * [[Fine Crosscut]] * [[Face Planing]] [[File:Signal-2021-08-24-210045 004 (2).jpg|thumb|Example of wood prepared for the handle, blade, and dowels of a try plane prior to cutting to size.]] === Tools & Materials === * Two different pieces of wood, cut to size - a thicker piece for the handle and a thinner one for the blade. Example dimensions: Handle: 3/4" thick x 2" wide x 5" long; Blade: 1/4" thick x 2.5" wide x 10" long *Dowel pins x 2 *Try square *Marking knife *Marking gauge *Tenon saw (a medium/large rip saw) * Carcass saw (a medium crosscut saw) *Coping saw (optional) * Chisel (same size as notch) * Smoothing plane *Glue (slow-setting, e.g., PVA) *Pencil === Steps === * Step 1: Decide on the size of the try square (it can be useful to have multiple try squares of different sizes). * Step 2: Mark the lengths required on each piece of wood (both the handle and blade) using the marking knife and pencil *Step 2: Cut handle and blade to their respective lengths using a [[Fine Crosscut]] *Step 3: Prepare the handle and blade for the [[Bridle Joint]]: ** 3a: Measure the notch for the bridle joint in the end of the handle (using the marking gauge to measure two parallel lines into the end of the handle to the depth of 3/4th that of the blade width, and the same width as the thickness of the blade.[[File:TryPlace marking the notch.jpg|thumb|Example of a the notch marked out ready to cut in the end of a handle ]] ** 3b: Use the Tenon saw to cut each of the parallel lines previously marked into the handle. **3c: Using the Coping saw, cut just above the base of the middle section and remove the waste to leave the two forks of the notch. ** 3d: True the floor of the notch with the chisel (by carefully removing any remaining waste section with the chisel so that the floor of the notch is flat). ** **3e: Carefully test how far off the blade is from slipping into the notch without bending the two forks of the notch and then [[Face Planing|Face Plane]] the end of the blade until it does. * Step 4: Join the handle and the blade - note this is a 3-step process, the first two steps need to be done together: ** 4a: Glue the planed-end of the blade into the notch prepared in the handle ** 4b: ''Before the glue sets'', manipulate the blade and handle so that the inside corner of the square is a true 90 degrees. ** 4c: After the glue sets, insert two dowels into the join to pin the handle and blade together. * Step 5: True the outside of the square (and re-check that the inside of the square is true as well). === Further resources: === - [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cxNpwOiF5zQ Wood by Wright instructional video] - [https://www.instructables.com/Wooden-Try-Square/ Instructables step-by-step written guide] - [https://www.craftsmanspace.com/free-projects/try-square-plan.html Craftsmanspace step-by-step written guide with diagrams] === Examples: === No one in the group has made this yet. 62e9584016d9e974684af52dddd6716b542171e0 91 90 2021-08-24T11:56:49Z Tariq 3 wikitext text/x-wiki This project is part of [[The Starter Toolbox]] journey. A try square is used for marking and checking 90° angles on pieces of wood. The ''square'' in the name refers to the 90° angle. To ''try'' a piece of wood is to check if the edges and faces are straight, flat, and square to one another. A try square is made of two key parts fixed together at 90° to form an 'L' shape. [[File:ExplodedTrySquare.png|thumb|Exploded image of wooden try square]] === Key Terms === * Handle (also called the 'stock' or the 'post') * Blade (also called the 'beam' or 'tongue' or 'straight edge') *Notch (cut into handle for the blade to fit into) * Inside corner of square (90 degrees) * Outside of square * Dowel Pins === Techniques === * [[Bridle Joint]] * [[Fine Crosscut]] * [[Face Planing]] [[File:Signal-2021-08-24-210045 004 (2).jpg|thumb|Example of wood prepared for the handle, blade, and dowels of a try plane prior to cutting to size.]] === Tools & Materials === * Two different pieces of wood, cut to size - a thicker piece for the handle and a thinner one for the blade. Example dimensions: Handle: 3/4" thick x 2" wide x 5" long; Blade: 1/4" thick x 2.5" wide x 10" long *Dowel pins x 2 *Try square *Marking knife *Marking gauge *Tenon saw (a medium/large rip saw) * Carcass saw (a medium crosscut saw) *Coping saw (optional) * Chisel (same size as notch) * Smoothing plane *Glue (slow-setting, e.g., PVA) *Pencil === Steps === * Step 1: Decide on the size of the try square (it can be useful to have multiple try squares of different sizes). * Step 2: Mark the lengths required on each piece of wood (both the handle and blade) using the marking knife and pencil *Step 2: Cut handle and blade to their respective lengths using a [[Fine Crosscut]] *Step 3: Prepare the handle and blade for the [[Bridle Joint]]: ** 3a: Measure the notch for the bridle joint in the end of the handle (using the marking gauge to measure two parallel lines into the end of the handle to the depth of 3/4th that of the blade width, and the same width as the thickness of the blade.[[File:TryPlace marking the notch.jpg|thumb|Example of a the notch marked out ready to cut in the end of a handle ]] ** 3b: Use the Tenon saw to cut each of the parallel lines previously marked into the handle. **3c: Using the Coping saw, cut just above the base of the middle section and remove the waste to leave the two forks of the notch. ** 3d: True the floor of the notch with the chisel (by carefully removing any remaining waste section with the chisel so that the floor of the notch is flat). ** **3e: Carefully test if the blade matches the size of the notch and then [[Face Planing|Face Plane]] the end of the blade until it can slip into the notch without bending the two forks. * Step 4: Join the handle and the blade - note this is a 3-step process, the first two steps need to be done together: ** 4a: Glue the planed-end of the blade into the notch prepared in the handle ** 4b: ''Before the glue sets'', manipulate the blade and handle so that the inside corner of the square is a true 90 degrees. ** 4c: After the glue sets, insert two dowels into the join to pin the handle and blade together. * Step 5: True the outside of the square (and re-check that the inside of the square is true as well). === Further resources: === - [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cxNpwOiF5zQ Wood by Wright instructional video] - [https://www.instructables.com/Wooden-Try-Square/ Instructables step-by-step written guide] - [https://www.craftsmanspace.com/free-projects/try-square-plan.html Craftsmanspace step-by-step written guide with diagrams] === Examples: === No one in the group has made this yet. 19c1260906daebdec9e65462ef39b152df105a0a 92 91 2021-08-24T11:58:44Z Tariq 3 wikitext text/x-wiki This project is part of [[The Starter Toolbox]] journey. A try square is used for marking and checking 90° angles on pieces of wood. The ''square'' in the name refers to the 90° angle. To ''try'' a piece of wood is to check if the edges and faces are straight, flat, and square to one another. A try square is made of two key parts fixed together at 90° to form an 'L' shape. [[File:ExplodedTrySquare.png|thumb|Exploded image of wooden try square]] === Key Terms === * Handle (also called the 'stock' or the 'post') * Blade (also called the 'beam' or 'tongue' or 'straight edge') *Notch (cut into handle for the blade to fit into) * Inside corner of square (90 degrees) * Outside of square * Dowel Pins === Techniques === * [[Bridle Joint]] * [[Fine Crosscut]] * [[Face Planing]] === Tools & Materials === * Two different pieces of wood, cut to size - a thicker piece for the handle and a thinner one for the blade. Example dimensions: Handle: 3/4" thick x 2" wide x 5" long; Blade: 1/4" thick x 2.5" wide x 10" long *[[File:Signal-2021-08-24-210045 004 (2).jpg|thumb|Example of wood prepared for the handle, blade, and dowels of a try plane prior to cutting to size.]]Dowel pins x 2 *Try square *Marking knife *Marking gauge *Tenon saw (a medium/large rip saw) * Carcass saw (a medium crosscut saw) *Coping saw (optional) * Chisel (same size as notch) * Smoothing plane *Glue (slow-setting, e.g., PVA) *Pencil === Steps === * Step 1: Decide on the size of the try square (it can be useful to have multiple try squares of different sizes). * Step 2: Mark the lengths required on each piece of wood (both the handle and blade) using the marking knife and pencil *Step 2: Cut handle and blade to their respective lengths using a [[Fine Crosscut]] *Step 3: Prepare the handle and blade for the [[Bridle Joint]]: ** 3a: Measure the notch for the bridle joint in the end of the handle (using the marking gauge to measure and mark two parallel lines into the end of the handle to the depth of 3/4th that of the blade width, and the same width as the thickness of the blade).[[File:TryPlace marking the notch.jpg|thumb|Example of a the notch marked out ready to cut in the end of a handle ]] ** 3b: Use the Tenon saw to cut each of the parallel lines previously marked into the handle. **3c: Using the Coping saw, cut just above the base of the middle section and remove the waste to leave the two forks of the notch. ** 3d: True the floor of the notch with the chisel (by carefully removing any remaining waste section with the chisel so that the floor of the notch is flat). ** **3e: Carefully test if the blade matches the size of the notch and then [[Face Planing|Face Plane]] the end of the blade until it can slip into the notch without bending the two forks. * Step 4: Join the handle and the blade - note this is a 3-step process, the first two steps need to be done together: ** 4a: Glue the planed-end of the blade into the notch prepared in the handle ** 4b: ''Before the glue sets'', manipulate the blade and handle so that the inside corner of the square is a true 90 degrees. ** 4c: After the glue sets, insert two dowels into the join to pin the handle and blade together. * Step 5: True the outside of the square (and re-check that the inside of the square is true as well). === Further resources: === - [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cxNpwOiF5zQ Wood by Wright instructional video] - [https://www.instructables.com/Wooden-Try-Square/ Instructables step-by-step written guide] - [https://www.craftsmanspace.com/free-projects/try-square-plan.html Craftsmanspace step-by-step written guide with diagrams] === Examples: === No one in the group has made this yet. bb0fd528ad6305c5802f11329d48fdfce8081bf9 94 92 2021-08-24T12:08:50Z Tariq 3 wikitext text/x-wiki This project is part of [[The Starter Toolbox]] journey. A try square is used for marking and checking 90° angles on pieces of wood. The ''square'' in the name refers to the 90° angle. To ''try'' a piece of wood is to check if the edges and faces are straight, flat, and square to one another. A try square is made of two key parts fixed together at 90° to form an 'L' shape. [[File:ExplodedTrySquare.png|thumb|Exploded image of wooden try square]] === Key Terms === * Handle (also called the 'stock' or the 'post') * Blade (also called the 'beam' or 'tongue' or 'straight edge') *Notch (cut into handle for the blade to fit into) * Inside corner of square (90 degrees) * Outside of square * Dowel Pins === Techniques === * [[Bridle Joint]] * [[Fine Crosscut]] * [[Face Planing]] === Tools & Materials === * Dowel pins *Two different pieces of wood, cut to size - a thicker piece for the handle and a thinner one for the blade. *[[File:Signal-2021-08-24-210045 004 (2).jpg|thumb|Example of wood prepared for the handle, blade, and dowels of a try plane prior to cutting to size.]][[File:TrySquare handle blade layout.jpg|thumb|Example of handle and blade cut to a selected size (dimensions: Handle: 3/4" thick x 2" wide x 5" long; Blade: 1/4" thick x 2.5" wide x 10" long).]] *Try square *Marking knife *Marking gauge *Tenon saw (a medium/large rip saw) * Carcass saw (a medium crosscut saw) *Coping saw (optional) * Chisel (same size as notch) * Smoothing plane *Glue (slow-setting, e.g., PVA) *Pencil === Steps === * Step 1: Decide on the size of the try square (it can be useful to have multiple try squares of different sizes). * Step 2: Mark the lengths required on each piece of wood (both the handle and blade) using the marking knife and pencil *Step 2: Cut handle and blade to their respective lengths using a [[Fine Crosscut]] *Step 3: Prepare the handle and blade for the [[Bridle Joint]]: ** 3a: Measure the notch for the bridle joint in the end of the handle (using the marking gauge to measure and mark two parallel lines into the end of the handle to the depth of 3/4th that of the blade width, and the same width as the thickness of the blade).[[File:TryPlace marking the notch.jpg|thumb|Example of a the notch marked out ready to cut in the end of a handle ]] ** 3b: Use the Tenon saw to cut each of the parallel lines previously marked into the handle. **3c: Using the Coping saw, cut just above the base of the middle section and remove the waste to leave the two forks of the notch. ** 3d: True the floor of the notch with the chisel (by carefully removing any remaining waste section with the chisel so that the floor of the notch is flat). ** **3e: Carefully test if the blade matches the size of the notch and then [[Face Planing|Face Plane]] the end of the blade until it can slip into the notch without bending the two forks. * Step 4: Join the handle and the blade - note this is a 3-step process, the first two steps need to be done together: ** 4a: Glue the planed-end of the blade into the notch prepared in the handle ** 4b: ''Before the glue sets'', manipulate the blade and handle so that the inside corner of the square is a true 90 degrees. ** 4c: After the glue sets, insert two dowels into the join to pin the handle and blade together. * Step 5: True the outside of the square (and re-check that the inside of the square is true as well). === Further resources: === - [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cxNpwOiF5zQ Wood by Wright instructional video] - [https://www.instructables.com/Wooden-Try-Square/ Instructables step-by-step written guide] - [https://www.craftsmanspace.com/free-projects/try-square-plan.html Craftsmanspace step-by-step written guide with diagrams] === Examples: === No one in the group has made this yet. ce28be800e292176b66b36e50760d1df09d506f3 95 94 2021-08-24T12:10:08Z Tariq 3 wikitext text/x-wiki This project is part of [[The Starter Toolbox]] journey. A try square is used for marking and checking 90° angles on pieces of wood. The ''square'' in the name refers to the 90° angle. To ''try'' a piece of wood is to check if the edges and faces are straight, flat, and square to one another. A try square is made of two key parts fixed together at 90° to form an 'L' shape. [[File:ExplodedTrySquare.png|thumb|Exploded image of wooden try square]] === Key Terms === * Handle (also called the 'stock' or the 'post') * Blade (also called the 'beam' or 'tongue' or 'straight edge') *Notch (cut into handle for the blade to fit into) * Inside corner of square (90 degrees) * Outside of square * Dowel Pins === Techniques === * [[Bridle Joint]] * [[Fine Crosscut]] * [[Face Planing]] === Tools & Materials === *Two different pieces of wood, cut to size - a thicker piece for the handle and a thinner one for the blade.[[File:Signal-2021-08-24-210045 004 (2).jpg|thumb|Example of wood prepared for the handle, blade, and dowels of a try plane prior to cutting to size.]] *Dowel pins *Try square *Marking knife *Marking gauge *Tenon saw (a medium/large rip saw) * Carcass saw (a medium crosscut saw) *Coping saw (optional) * Chisel (same size as notch) * Smoothing plane *Glue (slow-setting, e.g., PVA) *Pencil === Steps === * Step 1: Decide on the size of the try square (it can be useful to have multiple try squares of different sizes).[[File:TrySquare handle blade layout.jpg|thumb|Example of handle and blade cut to a selected size (dimensions: Handle: 3/4" thick x 2" wide x 5" long; Blade: 1/4" thick x 2.5" wide x 10" long).]] * Step 2: Mark the lengths required on each piece of wood (both the handle and blade) using the marking knife and pencil *Step 2: Cut handle and blade to their respective lengths using a [[Fine Crosscut]] *Step 3: Prepare the handle and blade for the [[Bridle Joint]]: ** 3a: Measure the notch for the bridle joint in the end of the handle (using the marking gauge to measure and mark two parallel lines into the end of the handle to the depth of 3/4th that of the blade width, and the same width as the thickness of the blade).[[File:TryPlace marking the notch.jpg|thumb|Example of a the notch marked out ready to cut in the end of a handle ]] ** 3b: Use the Tenon saw to cut each of the parallel lines previously marked into the handle. **3c: Using the Coping saw, cut just above the base of the middle section and remove the waste to leave the two forks of the notch. ** 3d: True the floor of the notch with the chisel (by carefully removing any remaining waste section with the chisel so that the floor of the notch is flat). ** **3e: Carefully test if the blade matches the size of the notch and then [[Face Planing|Face Plane]] the end of the blade until it can slip into the notch without bending the two forks. * Step 4: Join the handle and the blade - note this is a 3-step process, the first two steps need to be done together: ** 4a: Glue the planed-end of the blade into the notch prepared in the handle ** 4b: ''Before the glue sets'', manipulate the blade and handle so that the inside corner of the square is a true 90 degrees. ** 4c: After the glue sets, insert two dowels into the join to pin the handle and blade together. * Step 5: True the outside of the square (and re-check that the inside of the square is true as well). === Further resources: === - [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cxNpwOiF5zQ Wood by Wright instructional video] - [https://www.instructables.com/Wooden-Try-Square/ Instructables step-by-step written guide] - [https://www.craftsmanspace.com/free-projects/try-square-plan.html Craftsmanspace step-by-step written guide with diagrams] === Examples: === No one in the group has made this yet. c26b4184b2b4358649a9ebd79227edaf308dd3c9 96 95 2021-08-24T22:02:49Z Tariq 3 wikitext text/x-wiki This project is part of [[The Starter Toolbox]] journey. A try square is used for marking and checking 90° angles on pieces of wood. The ''square'' in the name refers to the 90° angle. To ''try'' a piece of wood is to check if the edges and faces are straight, flat, and square to one another. A try square is made of two key parts fixed together at 90° to form an 'L' shape. [[File:ExplodedTrySquare.png|thumb|Exploded image of wooden try square]] === Key Terms === * Handle (also called the 'stock' or the 'post') * Blade (also called the 'beam' or 'tongue' or 'straight edge') *Notch (cut into handle for the blade to fit into) * Inside corner of square (90 degrees) * Outside of square * Dowel Pins === Techniques === * [[Bridle Joint]] * [[Fine Crosscut]] * [[Face Planing]] === Tools & Materials === *Two different pieces of prepared wood - a thicker piece for the handle and a thinner one for the blade.[[File:Signal-2021-08-24-210045 004 (2).jpg|thumb|Example of wood prepared for the handle, blade, and dowels of a try plane prior to cutting to size.]] *Dowel pins *Try square *Marking knife *Marking gauge *Tenon saw (a medium/large rip saw) * Carcass saw (a medium crosscut saw) *Coping saw (optional) * Chisel (same size as notch) * Smoothing plane *Glue (slow-setting, e.g., PVA) *Pencil === Steps === * Step 1: Decide on the size of the try square (it can be useful to have multiple try squares of different sizes).[[File:TrySquare handle blade layout.jpg|thumb|Example of handle and blade cut to a selected size (dimensions: Handle: 3/4" thick x 2" wide x 5" long; Blade: 1/4" thick x 2.5" wide x 10" long).]] * Step 2: Mark the lengths required on each piece of wood (the handle and blade) using the marking knife and pencil *Step 2: Cut handle and blade to their respective lengths using a [[Fine Crosscut]] *Step 3: Prepare the handle and blade for the [[Bridle Joint]]: ** 3a: Measure the notch for the bridle joint in the end of the handle (using the marking gauge to measure and mark two parallel lines into the end of the handle to the depth of 3/4th that of the blade width, and the same width as the thickness of the blade).[[File:TryPlace marking the notch.jpg|thumb|Example of a the notch marked out ready to cut in the end of a handle ]] ** 3b: Use the Tenon saw to cut each of the parallel lines previously marked into the handle. **3c: Using the Coping saw, cut just above the base of the middle section and remove the waste to leave the two forks of the notch. ** 3d: True the floor of the notch with the chisel (by carefully removing any remaining waste section with the chisel so that the floor of the notch is flat). ** **3e: Carefully test if the blade matches the size of the notch and then [[Face Planing|Face Plane]] the end of the blade until it can slip into the notch without bending the two forks. * Step 4: Join the handle and the blade - note this is a 3-step process, the first two steps need to be done together: ** 4a: Glue the planed-end of the blade into the notch prepared in the handle ** 4b: ''Before the glue sets'', manipulate the blade and handle so that the inside corner of the square is a true 90 degrees. ** 4c: After the glue sets, insert two dowels into the join to pin the handle and blade together. * Step 5: True the outside of the square (and re-check that the inside of the square is true as well). === Further resources: === - [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cxNpwOiF5zQ Wood by Wright instructional video] - [https://www.instructables.com/Wooden-Try-Square/ Instructables step-by-step written guide] - [https://www.craftsmanspace.com/free-projects/try-square-plan.html Craftsmanspace step-by-step written guide with diagrams] === Examples: === No one in the group has made this yet. 06bf3cc9d7b8ddf431c41accfcf33d6d738fde01 97 96 2021-08-24T22:06:43Z Tariq 3 wikitext text/x-wiki This project is part of [[The Starter Toolbox]] journey. A try square is used for marking and checking 90° angles on pieces of wood. The ''square'' in the name refers to the 90° angle. To ''try'' a piece of wood is to check if the edges and faces are straight, flat, and square to one another. A try square is made of two key parts fixed together at 90° to form an 'L' shape. [[File:ExplodedTrySquare.png|thumb|Exploded image of wooden try square]] === Key Terms === * Handle (also called the 'stock' or the 'post') * Blade (also called the 'beam' or 'tongue' or 'straight edge') *Notch (cut into handle for the blade to fit into) * Inside corner of square (90 degrees) * Outside of square * Dowel Pins === Techniques === * [[Bridle Joint]] * [[Fine Crosscut]] * [[Face Planing]] === Tools & Materials === *Two different pieces of prepared wood - a thicker piece for the handle and a thinner one for the blade.[[File:Signal-2021-08-24-210045 004 (2).jpg|thumb|Example of wood prepared for the handle, blade, and dowels of a try plane prior to cutting to size.]] *Pencil *Marking knife *Marking gauge *Tenon saw (a medium/large rip saw) * Carcass saw (a medium crosscut saw) *Coping saw (optional) * Chisel (same size as notch) * Smoothing plane *Glue (slow-setting, e.g., PVA) *Dowel pins *Hand drill *Try square === Steps === * Step 1: Decide on the size of the try square (it can be useful to have multiple try squares of different sizes).[[File:TrySquare handle blade layout.jpg|thumb|Example of handle and blade cut to a selected size (dimensions: Handle: 3/4" thick x 2" wide x 5" long; Blade: 1/4" thick x 2.5" wide x 10" long).]] * Step 2: Mark the lengths required on each piece of wood (the handle and blade) using the marking knife and pencil *Step 2: Cut handle and blade to their respective lengths using a [[Fine Crosscut]] *Step 3: Prepare the handle and blade for the [[Bridle Joint]]: ** 3a: Measure the notch for the bridle joint in the end of the handle (using the marking gauge to measure and mark two parallel lines into the end of the handle to the depth of 3/4th that of the blade width, and the same width as the thickness of the blade).[[File:TryPlace marking the notch.jpg|thumb|Example of a the notch marked out ready to cut in the end of a handle ]] ** 3b: Use the Tenon saw to cut each of the parallel lines previously marked into the handle. **3c: Using the Coping saw, cut just above the base of the middle section and remove the waste to leave the two forks of the notch. ** 3d: True the floor of the notch with the chisel (by carefully removing any remaining waste section with the chisel so that the floor of the notch is flat). ** **3e: Carefully test if the blade matches the size of the notch and then [[Face Planing|Face Plane]] the end of the blade until it can slip into the notch without bending the two forks. * Step 4: Join the handle and the blade - note this is a 3-step process, the first two steps need to be done together: ** 4a: Glue the planed-end of the blade into the notch prepared in the handle ** 4b: ''Before the glue sets'', manipulate the blade and handle so that the inside corner of the square is a true 90 degrees. ** 4c: After the glue sets, drill the holes for the dowel pins. **4d Insert the dowels into to pin the handle and blade together. * Step 5: True the outside of the square (and re-check that the inside of the square is true as well). === Further resources: === - [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cxNpwOiF5zQ Wood by Wright instructional video] - [https://www.instructables.com/Wooden-Try-Square/ Instructables step-by-step written guide] - [https://www.craftsmanspace.com/free-projects/try-square-plan.html Craftsmanspace step-by-step written guide with diagrams] === Examples: === No one in the group has made this yet. 2c3a3ea8b3817ad6149400d8107c6f132f3c132a 100 97 2021-09-11T13:08:41Z Tariq 3 wikitext text/x-wiki This project is part of [[The Starter Toolbox]] journey. A try square is used for marking and checking 90° angles on pieces of wood. The ''square'' in the name refers to the 90° angle. To ''try'' a piece of wood is to check if the edges and faces are straight, flat, and square to one another. A try square is made of two key parts fixed together at 90° to form an 'L' shape. [[File:ExplodedTrySquare.png|thumb|Exploded image of wooden try square]] === Key Terms === * Handle (also called the 'stock' or the 'post') * Blade (also called the 'beam' or 'tongue' or 'straight edge') *Notch (cut into handle for the blade to fit into) * Inside corner of square (90 degrees) * Outside of square * Dowel Pins === Techniques === * [[Bridle Joint]] * [[Fine Crosscut]] * [[Face Planing]] === Tools & Materials === [[File:Signal-2021-08-24-210045 004 (2).jpg|thumb|Example of wood prepared for the handle, blade, and dowels of a try plane prior to cutting to size.|200x200px]][[File:TrySquare handle blade layout.jpg|thumb|Example dimensions for a handle and blade cut to a selected size: Handle: 3/4" thick x 2" wide x 5" long; Blade: 1/4" thick x 2.5" wide x 10" long.|alt=Example dimensions for a handle and blade cut to a selected size: Handle: 3/4" thick x 2" wide x 5" long; Blade: 1/4" thick x 2.5" wide x 10" long.|200x200px]] *Two different pieces of prepared wood - a thicker piece for the handle and a thinner one for the blade. *Pencil *Marking knife *Marking gauge *Tenon saw (a medium/large rip saw) * Carcass saw (a medium crosscut saw) *Coping saw (optional) * Chisel (same size as notch) * Smoothing plane *Glue (slow-setting, e.g., PVA) *Dowel pins *Hand drill *Try square === Steps === * Step 1: Decide on the size of the try square (it can be useful to have multiple try squares of different sizes). * Step 2: Mark the lengths required on each piece of wood (the handle and blade) using the marking knife and pencil *[[File:TryPlace marking the notch.jpg|thumb|Example of a the notch marked out ready to cut in the end of a handle |200x200px]]Step 3: Cut handle and blade to their respective lengths using a [[Fine Crosscut]] *Step 4: Prepare the handle and blade for the [[Bridle Joint]]: ** 4a: Measure the notch for the bridle joint in the end of the handle (using the marking gauge to measure and mark two parallel lines into the end of the handle to the depth of 3/4th that of the blade width, and the same width as the thickness of the blade). ** 4b: Use the Tenon saw to cut each of the parallel lines previously marked into the handle. **4c: Using the Coping saw, cut just above the base of the middle section and remove the waste to leave the two forks of the notch. ** 4d: True the floor of the notch with the chisel (by carefully removing any remaining waste section with the chisel so that the floor of the notch is flat). ** **4e: Carefully test if the blade matches the size of the notch and, if needed, [[Face Planing|Face Plane]] the end of the blade until it can slip into the notch without bending the two forks. * Step 5: Join the handle and the blade. ** 5a: Glue the planed-end of the blade into the notch prepared in the handle ** 5b: ''Before the glue sets'', manipulate the blade and handle so that the inside corner of the square is a true 90 degree[[File:Partially planed dowelpins.jpg|alt=Image of join with two dowel pins inserted, one planned flat to the handle surface and the other still protuding|thumb|200x200px|Image of an example join with two dowel pins inserted, one planned flat to the handle surface and the other still protruding]] * Step 6: After the glue sets, insert dowel pins where the blade and handle intersect. **6a: Drill holes for the dowel pins **6b: Insert prepared dowel pins into the drilled hole **6c: Saw off the excess dowel from the pins **6d: Plane the pins smooth * Step 7: True the outside of the square (and re-check that the inside of the square is true as well). === Further resources: === - [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cxNpwOiF5zQ Wood by Wright instructional video] - [https://www.instructables.com/Wooden-Try-Square/ Instructables step-by-step written guide] - [https://www.craftsmanspace.com/free-projects/try-square-plan.html Craftsmanspace step-by-step written guide with diagrams] === Examples: === e12ac35e8ccbdc3ef4ee44b3b65f9574121a02bd 0 21 61 2021-07-24T05:48:47Z Craig 1 Created page with "Reference here: https://www.popularwoodworking.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/0612_Marking_Gauge.pdf" wikitext text/x-wiki Reference here: https://www.popularwoodworking.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/0612_Marking_Gauge.pdf 75c3b0c68d2a2106ab55935e4203a1e5ab3fd1f2 62 61 2021-07-24T05:49:44Z Craig 1 wikitext text/x-wiki This project is part of [[The Starter Toolbox]] journey. Reference here: https://www.popularwoodworking.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/0612_Marking_Gauge.pdf a1af820c6deeb059e597f08d66540d3338f79845 0 3 63 9 2021-07-25T07:10:38Z Tariq 3 Added tools to list wikitext text/x-wiki === Marking tools === * [./Https://subversivewoodworking.co/wiki/index.php/Marking%20Knife Marking Knife] * [./Https://subversivewoodworking.co/wiki/index.php/Wooden%20Marking%20Gauge Marking gauge] === Measuring tools === * [./Https://subversivewoodworking.co/wiki/index.php/Wooden%20Try%20Square Try square] === Saws === * Crosscut saw * Backsaw === Planes === * Fore plane * Try plane *[./Https://subversivewoodworking.co/wiki/index.php/Krenov%20Smoothing%20Plane Smoothing plane] ce1a478259261986efbf61a0d7e48c1187b4a4ec 64 63 2021-07-25T07:11:26Z Tariq 3 wikitext text/x-wiki === Marking tools === * Marking Knife * Marking gauge === Measuring tools === * Try square === Saws === * Crosscut saw * Backsaw === Planes === * Fore plane * Try plane *Smoothing plane 2ce018830e61354887537707ec0f41191b8e3457 65 64 2021-07-25T07:30:07Z Tariq 3 wikitext text/x-wiki === Laying out tools === * Marking knife * Marking gauge *Try square === Saws === * Crosscut saw * Backsaw *Coping saw === Planes === * Fore plane * Try plane *Smoothing plane === Chisels === * === Holding tools === * Vice * Surface clamp * Bench stop === Driving tools === * Mallet === Systems of tool classification: === * [https://archive.org/details/prevocationalind00woodrich/page/n9/mode/2up A classification of hand woodworking tools from 1919 by Harry Wood and James H Smith] 5ef89a5a216386981850e44431a5ae8f965f938d 66 65 2021-07-25T07:57:11Z Tariq 3 wikitext text/x-wiki === Laying out tools === * Marking knife * Marking gauge *Try square *Sliding bevel === Saws === * Crosscut saw * Backsaw *Coping saw === Planes === * Fore plane * Try plane *Smoothing plane === Chisels & cutting === * * === Holding tools === * Vice * Holdfast *Surface clamp * Bench stop === Driving tools === * Mallet === Drilling & Boring === * Hand drill * Brace === Sharpening === * Sharpening stones === Systems of tool classification: === * [http://handtoollist.com/#section-first-tools A list of woodworking hand tools that can be filtered by the the source-of-advice (expert /book) compiled in 2014] *[https://archive.org/details/prevocationalind00woodrich/page/n9/mode/2up A classification of hand woodworking tools from 1919 by Harry Wood and James H Smith] 1728ddf17d45ea7bb1eaa1902806b66b488dbdaa 98 66 2021-08-27T03:10:29Z Tariq 3 Added Further Resources section wikitext text/x-wiki === Laying out tools === * Marking knife * Marking gauge *Try square *Sliding bevel === Saws === * Crosscut saw * Backsaw *Coping saw === Planes === * Fore plane * Try plane *Smoothing plane === Chisels & cutting === * * === Holding tools === * Vice * Holdfast *Surface clamp * Bench stop === Driving tools === * Mallet === Drilling & Boring === * Hand drill * Brace === Sharpening === * Sharpening stones === Systems of tool classification === * [http://handtoollist.com/#section-first-tools A list of woodworking hand tools that can be filtered by the the source-of-advice (expert /book) compiled in 2014] *[https://archive.org/details/prevocationalind00woodrich/page/n9/mode/2up A classification of hand woodworking tools from 1919 by Harry Wood and James H Smith] === Further Resources === * The Hand Tool Preservation Association of Australia (HTPAA) has [https://www.htpaa.org.au/hand-tools/australian-tools-makers a set of resources on Australian tool makers and information relating to individual tools]. 3d69e08bf3cc2bf063bd1d94fede220b13584fe6 0 22 67 2021-07-25T21:34:45Z Tariq 3 Created page with "This project is part of [[The Starter Toolbox]] journey. No one in the group has made this yet." wikitext text/x-wiki This project is part of [[The Starter Toolbox]] journey. No one in the group has made this yet. a535820243a2e9411ea0d75019645505283fc125 2 23 68 2021-07-25T23:40:52Z Tariq 3 Created page with "Current project documentation can be found (here.)(https://hackmd.io/@Teq/handcraft_projects) As soon as I've completed some, I'll include a brief summary here too." wikitext text/x-wiki Current project documentation can be found (here.)(https://hackmd.io/@Teq/handcraft_projects) As soon as I've completed some, I'll include a brief summary here too. 22434a0b71446aa51c6449ca6262f7220c2a972d 69 68 2021-07-25T23:42:03Z Tariq 3 wikitext text/x-wiki Current project documentation can be found [https://hackmd.io/@Teq/handcraft_projects here] As soon as I've completed some, I'll include a brief summary here too. a7e20c1839c1aa8a85d9e95685dec3d10460e126 70 69 2021-07-26T00:06:23Z Tariq 3 wikitext text/x-wiki I've long-standing interest in handcrafts but it has been a long time since I focused on learning specific techniques or contributing to meaningful projects. I've recently started to learn hand woodworking and am increasingly keen to re-integrate handcrafts of multiple kinds into my daily life. This approach is part of a broader interest in participating in ''commoning processes''. Within this context, I see learning handcrafts as a valuable avenue for simultaneously cultivating communities ''intoxicated with the joy of making things'' while resisting the consumer capitalism that currently structures our societies. In the context of Subversive Woodworking, I plan to work my way through multiple [[Journeys]]. Once I get started on, I hope to provide a brief summary documenting these hand woodworking projects here. For in-progress updates (and more general handcrafting projects), I keep my documentation [https://hackmd.io/@Teq/handcraft_projects here] For more general info about me, I've a short bio [https://hackmd.io/@Teq/Bio here]. 766c37b01eb71c31921a99ce710d6ee682493bd7 71 70 2021-07-26T00:14:01Z Tariq 3 wikitext text/x-wiki I've long-standing interest in handcrafts, and recently started to learn hand woodworking. While it has been a long time since I focused on learning specific techniques or contributing to meaningful projects, I am increasingly keen to re-integrate handcraft practices into my daily life. This interest is part of a broader goal of participating in multiple ''commoning processes''. As part of this, I consider participating in Subversive Woodworking an avenue for simultaneously cultivating communities ''intoxicated with the joy of making things'' while resisting the consumer capitalism that currently structures our societies. In the context of Subversive Woodworking, I plan to work my way through multiple [[Journeys]]. Once I get started on, I hope to provide a brief summary documenting these hand woodworking projects here. For in-progress updates (and more general handcrafting projects), I keep my documentation [https://hackmd.io/@Teq/handcraft_projects here] For more general info about me, I've a short bio [https://hackmd.io/@Teq/Bio here]. f6288696c4ab30e171aaf42af4c790380afd06fd 72 71 2021-07-26T00:16:21Z Tariq 3 wikitext text/x-wiki I've a long-standing interest in handcrafts, and recently started to learn hand woodworking. While it has been a long time since I focused on any meaningful projects, I am increasingly keen to re-integrate handcraft practices into my daily life. This interest is part of a broader goal of contributing to commoning processes. As part of this, I consider participating in Subversive Woodworking an avenue for simultaneously cultivating communities intoxicated with the joy of making things while resisting the consumer capitalism that currently structures our societies. In the context of Subversive Woodworking, I plan to work my way through multiple [[Journeys]]. Once I get started on this, I hope to provide a brief summary documenting these hand woodworking projects here. For in-progress updates (and more general handcrafting projects), I keep my documentation [https://hackmd.io/@Teq/handcraft_projects here] For more general info about me, I've a short bio [https://hackmd.io/@Teq/Bio here]. 97eb5452e24c9862627eeff919f3f1207dd5792a 6 24 79 2021-08-14T13:13:49Z Tariq 3 wikitext text/x-wiki Exploded image of a wooden try square. Source: https://www.craftsmanspace.com/free-projects/try-square-plan.html 375829cf2ea57885a3f42ebe151b133d8d577630 6 25 85 2021-08-24T11:31:21Z Tariq 3 wikitext text/x-wiki Photo of four pieces of wood: the handle; the blade; and two pieces prepared as dowel pins. 282736b5c2773194f27024ea0525f8b1afe2a526 6 26 86 2021-08-24T11:36:56Z Tariq 3 wikitext text/x-wiki Photo of four pieces of wood: one thicker one for the handle, one thinker one for the blade, and two rounded sticks prepared for the dowel pins. 819d683912a970383aca0c0de3e38fc94cf0c0e8 6 27 88 2021-08-24T11:44:19Z Tariq 3 wikitext text/x-wiki Photo of a the end of a piece of wood (the handle) with a wooden line around it and two parallel knife marks running over the end. 0fb0397b300d4e3ec5093c06fe7ee8c587e80d49 6 28 93 2021-08-24T12:06:16Z Tariq 3 wikitext text/x-wiki Photo of two pieces of wood in an L-shape d999edd2cade608d1263749cfcd4605b5a19b0f1 6 29 99 2021-09-11T12:56:53Z Tariq 3 wikitext text/x-wiki Image of a join with two dowel pins inserted, one planed flat to the surface and the other still protruding slightly. 13b0f8bda4d5b03e297f9a9e6cce4a7a8150edef 6 30 101 2021-09-11T13:11:01Z Tariq 3 wikitext text/x-wiki Example of wooden try plane 1 b135b0c35fa22552ed545ecdf1c9b714b119264d 6 31 102 2021-09-11T13:19:17Z Tariq 3 wikitext text/x-wiki Image of try plane with two long dowels inserted (yet to be cut) 74fa9cf60a255e0a4815fc50e1ebdfa8a7f9e834 0 20 103 100 2021-09-11T13:22:22Z Tariq 3 Updated images wikitext text/x-wiki This project is part of [[The Starter Toolbox]] journey. A try square is used for marking and checking 90° angles on pieces of wood. The ''square'' in the name refers to the 90° angle. To ''try'' a piece of wood is to check if the edges and faces are straight, flat, and square to one another. A try square is made of two key parts fixed together at 90° to form an 'L' shape. [[File:ExplodedTrySquare.png|thumb|Exploded image of wooden try square|390x390px]] === Key Terms === * Handle (also called the 'stock' or the 'post') * Blade (also called the 'beam' or 'tongue' or 'straight edge') *Notch (cut into handle for the blade to fit into) * Inside corner of square (90 degrees) * Outside of square * Dowel Pins === Techniques === * [[Bridle Joint]] * [[Fine Crosscut]] * [[Face Planing]] === Tools & Materials === [[File:Signal-2021-08-24-210045 004 (2).jpg|thumb|Example of wood prepared for the handle, blade, and dowels of a try plane prior to cutting to size.|200x200px]][[File:TrySquare handle blade layout.jpg|thumb|Example dimensions for a handle and blade cut to a selected size: Handle: 3/4" thick x 2" wide x 5" long; Blade: 1/4" thick x 2.5" wide x 10" long.|alt=Example dimensions for a handle and blade cut to a selected size: Handle: 3/4" thick x 2" wide x 5" long; Blade: 1/4" thick x 2.5" wide x 10" long.|200x200px]] *Two different pieces of prepared wood - a thicker piece for the handle and a thinner one for the blade. *Pencil *Marking knife *Marking gauge *Tenon saw (a medium/large rip saw) * Carcass saw (a medium crosscut saw) *Coping saw (optional) * Chisel (same size as notch) * Smoothing plane *Glue (slow-setting, e.g., PVA) *Dowel pins *Hand drill *Try square === Steps === * Step 1: Decide on the size of the try square (it can be useful to have multiple try squares of different sizes). * Step 2: Mark the lengths required on each piece of wood (the handle and blade) using the marking knife and pencil *[[File:TryPlace marking the notch.jpg|thumb|Example of a the notch marked out ready to cut in the end of a handle |200x200px]]Step 3: Cut handle and blade to their respective lengths using a [[Fine Crosscut]] *Step 4: Prepare the handle and blade for the [[Bridle Joint]]: ** 4a: Measure the notch for the bridle joint in the end of the handle (using the marking gauge to measure and mark two parallel lines into the end of the handle to the depth of 3/4th that of the blade width, and the same width as the thickness of the blade). ** 4b: Use the Tenon saw to cut each of the parallel lines previously marked into the handle. **4c: Using the Coping saw, cut just above the base of the middle section and remove the waste to leave the two forks of the notch. ** 4d: True the floor of the notch with the chisel (by carefully removing any remaining waste section with the chisel so that the floor of the notch is flat). ** **4e: Carefully test if the blade matches the size of the notch and, if needed, [[Face Planing|Face Plane]] the end of the blade until it can slip into the notch without bending the two forks. * Step 5: Join the handle and the blade. ** 5a: Glue the planed-end of the blade into the notch prepared in the handle ** 5b: ''Before the glue sets'', manipulate the blade and handle so that the inside corner of the square is a true 90 degree * [[File:TryPlane DowelsInserted.jpg|alt=Image of dowels inserted into try plane joing|thumb|200x200px|Dowels inserted and ready for excess to be cut off.]]Step 6: After the glue sets, insert dowel pins where the blade and handle intersect. **6a: Drill holes for the dowel pins **6b: Insert prepared dowel pins into the drilled hole **6c: Saw off the excess dowel from the pins **6d: Plane the pins smooth[[File:Partially planed dowelpins.jpg|alt=Image of join with two dowel pins inserted, one planned flat to the handle surface and the other still protuding|thumb|200x200px|An example join with two dowel pins inserted, one planned flat to the handle surface and another still slightly protruding]] * Step 7: True the outside of the square (and re-check that the inside of the square is true as well). === Further resources: === - [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cxNpwOiF5zQ Wood by Wright instructional video] - [https://www.instructables.com/Wooden-Try-Square/ Instructables step-by-step written guide] - [https://www.craftsmanspace.com/free-projects/try-square-plan.html Craftsmanspace step-by-step written guide with diagrams] === Examples: === [[File:Example TryPlane Teq 2021.jpg|alt=Image of an example wooden try plane by Tariq, 2021|left|thumb|400x400px|Example of wooden try plane by [https://subversivewoodworking.co/wiki/index.php/User:Tariq Tariq], 2021]] f4d48e4e396029bbd0c9a6186d6771d9d416c194 105 103 2021-09-11T13:29:44Z Tariq 3 wikitext text/x-wiki This project is part of [[The Starter Toolbox]] journey. A try square is used for marking and checking 90° angles on pieces of wood. The ''square'' in the name refers to the 90° angle. To ''try'' a piece of wood is to check if the edges and faces are straight, flat, and square to one another. A try square is made of two key parts fixed together at 90° to form an 'L' shape. [[File:ExplodedTrySquare.png|thumb|Exploded image of wooden try square|390x390px]] === Key Terms === * Handle (also called the 'stock' or the 'post') * Blade (also called the 'beam' or 'tongue' or 'straight edge') *Notch (cut into handle for the blade to fit into) * Inside corner of square (90 degrees) * Outside of square * Dowel Pins === Techniques === * [[Bridle Joint]] * [[Fine Crosscut]] * [[Face Planing]] === Tools & Materials === [[File:Signal-2021-08-24-210045 004 (2).jpg|thumb|Example of wood prepared for the handle, blade, and dowels of a try plane prior to cutting to size.|200x200px]][[File:TrySquare handle blade layout.jpg|thumb|Example dimensions for a handle and blade cut to a selected size: Handle: 3/4" thick x 2" wide x 5" long; Blade: 1/4" thick x 2.5" wide x 10" long.|alt=Example dimensions for a handle and blade cut to a selected size: Handle: 3/4" thick x 2" wide x 5" long; Blade: 1/4" thick x 2.5" wide x 10" long.|200x200px]] *Two different pieces of prepared wood - a thicker piece for the handle and a thinner one for the blade. *Pencil *Marking knife *Marking gauge *Tenon saw (a medium/large rip saw) * Carcass saw (a medium crosscut saw) *Coping saw (optional) * Chisel (same size as notch) * Smoothing plane *Glue (slow-setting, e.g., PVA) *Dowel pins *Hand drill *Try square === Steps === * Step 1: Decide on the size of the try square (it can be useful to have multiple try squares of different sizes). * Step 2: Mark the lengths required on each piece of wood (the handle and blade) using the marking knife and pencil *[[File:TryPlace marking the notch.jpg|thumb|Example of a the notch marked out ready to cut in the end of a handle |200x200px]]Step 3: Cut handle and blade to their respective lengths using a [[Fine Crosscut]] *Step 4: Prepare the handle and blade for the [[Bridle Joint]]: ** 4a: Measure the notch for the bridle joint in the end of the handle (using the marking gauge to measure and mark two parallel lines into the end of the handle to the depth of 3/4th that of the blade width, and the same width as the thickness of the blade). ** 4b: Use the Tenon saw to cut each of the parallel lines previously marked into the handle. **4c: Using the Coping saw, cut just above the base of the middle section and remove the waste to leave the two forks of the notch. ** 4d: True the floor of the notch with the chisel (by carefully removing any remaining waste section with the chisel so that the floor of the notch is flat). ** **4e: Carefully test if the blade matches the size of the notch and, if needed, [[Face Planing|Face Plane]] the end of the blade until it can slip into the notch without bending the two forks.[[File:TrySquare V1 Teq JoinImage.jpg|alt=Image of wooden try plane angled to show the join|thumb|200x200px|Example of first-attempt of the join]] * Step 5: Join the handle and the blade. ** 5a: Glue the planed-end of the blade into the notch prepared in the handle ** 5b: ''Before the glue sets'', manipulate the blade and handle so that the inside corner of the square is a true 90 degree * [[File:TryPlane DowelsInserted.jpg|alt=Image of dowels inserted into try plane joing|thumb|200x200px|Dowels inserted and ready for excess to be cut off.]]Step 6: After the glue sets, insert dowel pins where the blade and handle intersect. **6a: Drill holes for the dowel pins **6b: Insert prepared dowel pins into the drilled hole **6c: Saw off the excess dowel from the pins **6d: Plane the pins smooth[[File:Partially planed dowelpins.jpg|alt=Image of join with two dowel pins inserted, one planned flat to the handle surface and the other still protuding|thumb|200x200px|An example join with two dowel pins inserted, one planned flat to the handle surface and another still slightly protruding]] * Step 7: True the outside of the square (and re-check that the inside of the square is true as well). === Further resources: === - [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cxNpwOiF5zQ Wood by Wright instructional video] - [https://www.instructables.com/Wooden-Try-Square/ Instructables step-by-step written guide] - [https://www.craftsmanspace.com/free-projects/try-square-plan.html Craftsmanspace step-by-step written guide with diagrams] === Examples: === [[File:Example TryPlane Teq 2021.jpg|alt=Image of an example wooden try plane by Tariq, 2021|left|thumb|400x400px|Example of wooden try plane by [https://subversivewoodworking.co/wiki/index.php/User:Tariq Tariq], 2021]] f374936953b1e99f42b6806eb5a8c477359a07ab 109 105 2021-09-12T05:34:53Z Tariq 3 Add step wikitext text/x-wiki This project is part of [[The Starter Toolbox]] journey. A try square is used for marking and checking 90° angles on pieces of wood. The ''square'' in the name refers to the 90° angle. To ''try'' a piece of wood is to check if the edges and faces are straight, flat, and square to one another. A try square is made of two key parts fixed together at 90° to form an 'L' shape. [[File:ExplodedTrySquare.png|thumb|Exploded image of wooden try square|390x390px]] === Key Terms === * Handle (also called the 'stock' or the 'post') * Blade (also called the 'beam' or 'tongue' or 'straight edge') *Notch (cut into handle for the blade to fit into) * Inside corner of square (90 degrees) * Outside of square * Dowel Pins === Techniques === * [[Bridle Joint]] * [[Fine Crosscut]] * [[Face Planing]] === Tools & Materials === [[File:Signal-2021-08-24-210045 004 (2).jpg|thumb|Example of wood prepared for the handle, blade, and dowels of a try plane prior to cutting to size.|200x200px]][[File:TrySquare handle blade layout.jpg|thumb|Example dimensions for a handle and blade cut to a selected size: Handle: 3/4" thick x 2" wide x 5" long; Blade: 1/4" thick x 2.5" wide x 10" long.|alt=Example dimensions for a handle and blade cut to a selected size: Handle: 3/4" thick x 2" wide x 5" long; Blade: 1/4" thick x 2.5" wide x 10" long.|200x200px]] *Two different pieces of prepared wood - a thicker piece for the handle and a thinner one for the blade. *Pencil *Marking knife *Marking gauge *Tenon saw (a medium/large rip saw) * Carcass saw (a medium crosscut saw) *Coping saw (optional) * Chisel (same size as notch) * Smoothing plane *Glue (slow-setting, e.g., PVA) *Dowel pins *Hand drill *Try square === Steps === * Step 1: Decide on the size of the try square (it can be useful to have multiple try squares of different sizes). * Step 2: Mark the lengths required on each piece of wood (the handle and blade) using the marking knife and pencil *[[File:TryPlace marking the notch.jpg|thumb|Example of a the notch marked out ready to cut in the end of a handle |200x200px]]Step 3: Cut handle and blade to their respective lengths using a [[Fine Crosscut]] *Step 4: Prepare the handle and blade for the [[Bridle Joint]]: ** 4a: Measure the notch for the bridle joint in the end of the handle (using the marking gauge to measure and mark two parallel lines into the end of the handle to the depth of 3/4th that of the blade width, and the same width as the thickness of the blade). ** 4b: Use the Tenon saw to cut each of the parallel lines previously marked into the handle. **4c: Using the Coping saw, cut just above the base of the middle section and remove the waste to leave the two forks of the notch. ** 4d: True the floor of the notch with the chisel (by carefully removing any remaining waste section with the chisel so that the floor of the notch is flat). ** **4e: Carefully test if the blade matches the size of the notch and, if needed, [[Face Planing|Face Plane]] the end of the blade until it can slip into the notch without bending the two forks.[[File:TrySquare V1 Teq JoinImage.jpg|alt=Image of wooden try plane angled to show the join|thumb|200x200px|Example of first-attempt of the join]] * Step 5: Join the handle and the blade by gluing the planed-end of the blade into the notch prepared in the handle (and immediately do step 6) *Step 6: ''Before the glue sets'', manipulate the blade and handle so that the inside corner of the square is a true 90 degree. If an existing square is not available, check if the square has a 90° angle by directly comparing the squared line drawn by the try square ''against itself''. To do this, work from a perfectly flat edge, and if there is no discrepancy between the squared line drawn with the try square used one way and then flipped over you have a perfect 90° angle. if there is a discrepancy, carefully plane the outside edge of the blade until there isn't.[[File:Testing a try square for accuracy commons.wikimedia.png|link=https://subversivewoodworking.co/wiki/index.php/File:Testing%20a%20try%20square%20for%20accuracy%20commons.wikimedia.png|alt=Image of testing a square for accuracy by working from a perfectly flat edge, and once there is no discrepancy between the squared line drawn with the try square used one way and then flipped over you have a perfect 90° angle|none|thumb|200x200px]] * === Further resources: === - [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cxNpwOiF5zQ Wood by Wright instructional video] - [https://www.instructables.com/Wooden-Try-Square/ Instructables step-by-step written guide] - [https://www.craftsmanspace.com/free-projects/try-square-plan.html Craftsmanspace step-by-step written guide with diagrams] === Examples: === [[File:Example TryPlane Teq 2021.jpg|alt=Image of an example wooden try plane by Tariq, 2021|left|thumb|400x400px|Example of wooden try plane by [https://subversivewoodworking.co/wiki/index.php/User:Tariq Tariq], 2021]] 4d9d00f02be32fca94257493215468a4b53d7e50 110 109 2021-09-12T05:36:22Z Tariq 3 add steps wikitext text/x-wiki This project is part of [[The Starter Toolbox]] journey. A try square is used for marking and checking 90° angles on pieces of wood. The ''square'' in the name refers to the 90° angle. To ''try'' a piece of wood is to check if the edges and faces are straight, flat, and square to one another. A try square is made of two key parts fixed together at 90° to form an 'L' shape. [[File:ExplodedTrySquare.png|thumb|Exploded image of wooden try square|390x390px]] === Key Terms === * Handle (also called the 'stock' or the 'post') * Blade (also called the 'beam' or 'tongue' or 'straight edge') *Notch (cut into handle for the blade to fit into) * Inside corner of square (90 degrees) * Outside of square * Dowel Pins === Techniques === * [[Bridle Joint]] * [[Fine Crosscut]] * [[Face Planing]] === Tools & Materials === [[File:Signal-2021-08-24-210045 004 (2).jpg|thumb|Example of wood prepared for the handle, blade, and dowels of a try plane prior to cutting to size.|200x200px]][[File:TrySquare handle blade layout.jpg|thumb|Example dimensions for a handle and blade cut to a selected size: Handle: 3/4" thick x 2" wide x 5" long; Blade: 1/4" thick x 2.5" wide x 10" long.|alt=Example dimensions for a handle and blade cut to a selected size: Handle: 3/4" thick x 2" wide x 5" long; Blade: 1/4" thick x 2.5" wide x 10" long.|200x200px]] *Two different pieces of prepared wood - a thicker piece for the handle and a thinner one for the blade. *Pencil *Marking knife *Marking gauge *Tenon saw (a medium/large rip saw) * Carcass saw (a medium crosscut saw) *Coping saw (optional) * Chisel (same size as notch) * Smoothing plane *Glue (slow-setting, e.g., PVA) *Dowel pins *Hand drill *Try square === Steps === * Step 1: Decide on the size of the try square (it can be useful to have multiple try squares of different sizes). * Step 2: Mark the lengths required on each piece of wood (the handle and blade) using the marking knife and pencil *[[File:TryPlace marking the notch.jpg|thumb|Example of a the notch marked out ready to cut in the end of a handle |200x200px]]Step 3: Cut handle and blade to their respective lengths using a [[Fine Crosscut]] *Step 4: Prepare the handle and blade for the [[Bridle Joint]]: ** 4a: Measure the notch for the bridle joint in the end of the handle (using the marking gauge to measure and mark two parallel lines into the end of the handle to the depth of 3/4th that of the blade width, and the same width as the thickness of the blade). ** 4b: Use the Tenon saw to cut each of the parallel lines previously marked into the handle. **4c: Using the Coping saw, cut just above the base of the middle section and remove the waste to leave the two forks of the notch. ** 4d: True the floor of the notch with the chisel (by carefully removing any remaining waste section with the chisel so that the floor of the notch is flat). ** **4e: Carefully test if the blade matches the size of the notch and, if needed, [[Face Planing|Face Plane]] the end of the blade until it can slip into the notch without bending the two forks.[[File:TrySquare V1 Teq JoinImage.jpg|alt=Image of wooden try plane angled to show the join|thumb|200x200px|Example of first-attempt of the join]] * Step 5: Join the handle and the blade by gluing the planed-end of the blade into the notch prepared in the handle (and immediately do step 6) *Step 6: ''Before the glue sets'', manipulate the blade and handle so that the inside corner of the square is a true 90 degree. If an existing square is not available, check if the square has a 90° angle by directly comparing the squared line drawn by the try square ''against itself''. To do this, work from a perfectly flat edge, and if there is no discrepancy between the squared line drawn with the try square used one way and then flipped over you have a perfect 90° angle. if there is a discrepancy, carefully plane the outside edge of the blade until there isn't.[[File:Testing a try square for accuracy commons.wikimedia.png|link=https://subversivewoodworking.co/wiki/index.php/File:Testing%20a%20try%20square%20for%20accuracy%20commons.wikimedia.png|alt=Image of testing a square for accuracy by working from a perfectly flat edge, and once there is no discrepancy between the squared line drawn with the try square used one way and then flipped over you have a perfect 90° angle|none|thumb|200x200px]] *Step 7: After the glue sets, insert dowel pins where the blade and handle intersect. ** 7a: Drill holes for the dowel pins **7b: Insert prepared dowel pins into the drilled hole **7c: Saw off the excess dowel from the pins **7d: Plane the pins smooth[[File:TrySquare Step InsertingDowelPins.jpg|link=https://subversivewoodworking.co/wiki/index.php/File:TrySquare%20Step%20InsertingDowelPins.jpg|alt=Image of dowels inserted into try plane joing|none|thumb|200x200px|Dowels inserted and ready for the excess to be cut off the example try-square]] *Step 8: Re-check the inside angle to ensure it is square, and check if the outside of the blade and handle are true (and carefully planing the relevant edges if not). *Step 9: Soften each of the edges of the square by [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PMFRV98jBZk breaking the Arris] (by running a plane over the edge at a skewed angle). * === Further resources: === - [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cxNpwOiF5zQ Wood by Wright instructional video] - [https://www.instructables.com/Wooden-Try-Square/ Instructables step-by-step written guide] - [https://www.craftsmanspace.com/free-projects/try-square-plan.html Craftsmanspace step-by-step written guide with diagrams] === Examples: === [[File:Example TryPlane Teq 2021.jpg|alt=Image of an example wooden try plane by Tariq, 2021|left|thumb|400x400px|Example of wooden try plane by [https://subversivewoodworking.co/wiki/index.php/User:Tariq Tariq], 2021]] ca6daf0112339723a97b880b7dad4b79a4e28463 111 110 2021-09-12T05:42:26Z Tariq 3 update images wikitext text/x-wiki This project is part of [[The Starter Toolbox]] journey. A try square is used for marking and checking 90° angles on pieces of wood. The ''square'' in the name refers to the 90° angle. To ''try'' a piece of wood is to check if the edges and faces are straight, flat, and square to one another. A try square is made of two key parts fixed together at 90° to form an 'L' shape. [[File:ExplodedTrySquare.png|thumb|Exploded image of wooden try square|390x390px]] === Key Terms === * Handle (also called the 'stock' or the 'post') * Blade (also called the 'beam' or 'tongue' or 'straight edge') *Notch (cut into handle for the blade to fit into) * Inside corner of square (90 degrees) * Outside of square * Dowel Pins === Techniques === * [[Bridle Joint]] * [[Fine Crosscut]] * [[Face Planing]] *[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PMFRV98jBZk Breaking the Arris] === Tools & Materials === *Two different pieces of prepared wood - a thicker piece for the handle and a thinner one for the blade. *Pencil *Marking knife *Marking gauge *Tenon saw (a medium/large rip saw) * Carcass saw (a medium crosscut saw) *Coping saw (optional) * Chisel (same size as notch) * Block plane *Smoothing plane *Glue (slow-setting, e.g., PVA) *Dowel pins *Hand drill *Try square (optional) === Steps === * Step 1: Decide on the size of the try square (it can be useful to have multiple try squares of different sizes). * Step 2: Mark the lengths required on each piece of wood (the handle and blade) using the marking knife and pencil *Step 3: Cut handle and blade to their respective lengths using a [[Fine Crosscut]][[File:TrySquare handle blade layout.jpg|thumb|Example dimensions for a handle and blade cut to a selected size: Handle: 3/4" thick x 2" wide x 5" long; Blade: 1/4" thick x 2.5" wide x 10" long.|alt=Example dimensions for a handle and blade cut to a selected size: Handle: 3/4" thick x 2" wide x 5" long; Blade: 1/4" thick x 2.5" wide x 10" long.|200x200px|none]] *Step 4: Prepare the handle and blade for the [[Bridle Joint]]: ** 4a: Measure the notch for the bridle joint in the end of the handle (using the marking gauge to measure and mark two parallel lines into the end of the handle to the depth of 3/4th that of the blade width, and the same width as the thickness of the blade).[[File:TryPlace marking the notch.jpg|thumb|Example of a the notch marked out ready to cut in the end of a handle |200x200px|none]] ** 4b: Use the Tenon saw to cut each of the parallel lines previously marked into the handle. **4c: Using the Coping saw, cut just above the base of the middle section and remove the waste to leave the two forks of the notch. ** 4d: True the floor of the notch with the chisel (by carefully removing any remaining waste section with the chisel so that the floor of the notch is flat). ** **4e: Carefully test if the blade matches the size of the notch and, if needed, [[Face Planing|Face Plane]] the end of the blade until it can slip into the notch without bending the two forks.[[File:TrySquare V1 Teq JoinImage.jpg|alt=Image of wooden try plane angled to show the join|thumb|200x200px|Example of first-attempt of the join|none]] * Step 5: Join the handle and the blade by gluing the planed-end of the blade into the notch prepared in the handle (and immediately do step 6) *Step 6: ''Before the glue sets'', manipulate the blade and handle so that the inside corner of the square is a true 90 degree. If an existing square is not available, check if the square has a 90° angle by directly comparing the squared line drawn by the try square ''against itself''. To do this, work from a perfectly flat edge, and if there is no discrepancy between the squared line drawn with the try square used one way and then flipped over you have a perfect 90° angle. if there is a discrepancy, carefully plane the outside edge of the blade until there isn't.[[File:Testing a try square for accuracy commons.wikimedia.png|link=https://subversivewoodworking.co/wiki/index.php/File:Testing%20a%20try%20square%20for%20accuracy%20commons.wikimedia.png|alt=Image of testing a square for accuracy by working from a perfectly flat edge, and once there is no discrepancy between the squared line drawn with the try square used one way and then flipped over you have a perfect 90° angle|none|thumb|200x200px]] *Step 7: After the glue sets, insert dowel pins where the blade and handle intersect. ** 7a: Drill holes for the dowel pins **7b: Insert prepared dowel pins into the drilled hole **7c: Saw off the excess dowel from the pins **7d: Plane the pins smooth[[File:TrySquare Step InsertingDowelPins.jpg|link=https://subversivewoodworking.co/wiki/index.php/File:TrySquare%20Step%20InsertingDowelPins.jpg|alt=Image of dowels inserted into try plane joing|none|thumb|200x200px|Dowels inserted and ready for the excess to be cut off the example try-square]] *Step 8: Re-check the inside angle to ensure it is square, and check if the outside of the blade and handle are true (and carefully planing the relevant edges if not). *Step 9: Soften each of the edges of the square by [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PMFRV98jBZk breaking the Arris] (by running a plane over the edge at a skewed angle). * === Toolbox Journey Examples: === Share an image of your try square and help others on their [https://subversivewoodworking.co/wiki/index.php/Journeys Journeys]![[File:Example TryPlane Teq 2021.jpg|alt=Image of an example wooden try plane by Tariq, 2021|thumb|400x400px|Example of wooden try plane by [https://subversivewoodworking.co/wiki/index.php/User:Tariq Tariq], 2021|none]] === Further resources: === - [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cxNpwOiF5zQ Wood by Wright instructional video] - [https://www.instructables.com/Wooden-Try-Square/ Instructables step-by-step written guide] - [https://www.craftsmanspace.com/free-projects/try-square-plan.html Craftsmanspace step-by-step written guide with diagrams] 0167c33cea86610a67ea44400e01a07c1ebfe41a 112 111 2021-09-12T05:45:56Z Tariq 3 typos wikitext text/x-wiki This project is part of [[The Starter Toolbox]] journey. A try square is used for marking and checking 90° angles on pieces of wood. The ''square'' in the name refers to the 90° angle. To ''try'' a piece of wood is to check if the edges and faces are straight, flat, and square to one another. A try square is made of two key parts fixed together at 90° to form an 'L' shape. [[File:ExplodedTrySquare.png|thumb|Exploded image of wooden try square|390x390px]] === Key Terms === * Handle (also called the 'stock' or the 'post') * Blade (also called the 'beam' or 'tongue' or 'straight edge') *Notch (cut into handle for the blade to fit into) * Inside corner of square (90 degrees) * Outside of square * Dowel Pins === Techniques === * [[Bridle Joint]] * [[Fine Crosscut]] * [[Face Planing]] *[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PMFRV98jBZk Breaking the Arris] === Tools & Materials === *Two different pieces of prepared wood - a thicker piece for the handle and a thinner one for the blade. *Pencil *Marking knife *Marking gauge *Tenon saw (a medium/large rip saw) * Carcass saw (a medium crosscut saw) *Coping saw (optional) * Chisel (same size as notch) * Block plane *Smoothing plane *Glue (slow-setting, e.g., PVA) *Dowel pins *Hand drill *Try square (optional) === Steps === * Step 1: Decide on the size of the try square (it can be useful to have multiple try squares of different sizes). * Step 2: Mark the lengths required on each piece of wood (the handle and blade) using the marking knife and pencil *Step 3: Cut handle and blade to their respective lengths using a [[Fine Crosscut]][[File:TrySquare handle blade layout.jpg|thumb|Example of a handle and blade cut to a selected size: Handle: 3/4" thick x 2" wide x 5" long; Blade: 1/4" thick x 2.5" wide x 10" long.|alt=Example of a handle and blade cut to a selected size: Handle: 3/4" thick x 2" wide x 5" long; Blade: 1/4" thick x 2.5" wide x 10" long.|200x200px|none]] *Step 4: Prepare the handle and blade for the [[Bridle Joint]]: ** 4a: Measure the notch for the bridle joint in the end of the handle (using the marking gauge to measure and mark two parallel lines into the end of the handle to the depth of 3/4th that of the blade width, and the same width as the thickness of the blade).[[File:TryPlace marking the notch.jpg|thumb|Example of a the notch marked out ready to cut in the end of a handle |200x200px|none]] ** 4b: Use the Tenon saw to cut each of the parallel lines previously marked into the handle. **4c: Using the Coping saw, cut just above the base of the middle section and remove the waste to leave the two forks of the notch. ** 4d: True the floor of the notch with the chisel (by carefully removing any remaining waste section with the chisel so that the floor of the notch is flat). ** **4e: Carefully test if the blade matches the size of the notch and, if needed, [[Face Planing|Face Plane]] the end of the blade until it can slip into the notch without bending the two forks.[[File:TrySquare V1 Teq JoinImage.jpg|alt=Image of wooden try plane angled to show the join|thumb|200x200px|Example of first-attempt of the join|none]] * Step 5: Join the handle and the blade by gluing the planed-end of the blade into the notch prepared in the handle (and immediately do step 6) *Step 6: ''Before the glue sets'', manipulate the blade and handle so that the inside corner of the square is a true 90 degree. If an existing square is not available, check if the square has a 90° angle by directly comparing the squared line drawn by the try square ''against itself''. To do this, work from a perfectly flat edge, and if there is no discrepancy between the squared line drawn with the try square used one way and then flipped over you have a perfect 90° angle. if there is a discrepancy, carefully plane the outside edge of the blade until there isn't.[[File:Testing a try square for accuracy commons.wikimedia.png|link=https://subversivewoodworking.co/wiki/index.php/File:Testing%20a%20try%20square%20for%20accuracy%20commons.wikimedia.png|alt=Image of testing a square for accuracy by working from a perfectly flat edge, and once there is no discrepancy between the squared line drawn with the try square used one way and then flipped over you have a perfect 90° angle|none|thumb|200x200px]] *Step 7: After the glue sets, insert dowel pins where the blade and handle intersect. ** 7a: Drill holes for the dowel pins **7b: Insert prepared dowel pins into the drilled hole **7c: Saw off the excess dowel from the pins **7d: Plane the pins smooth[[File:TrySquare Step InsertingDowelPins.jpg|link=https://subversivewoodworking.co/wiki/index.php/File:TrySquare%20Step%20InsertingDowelPins.jpg|alt=Image of dowels inserted into try plane joing|none|thumb|200x200px|Dowels inserted and ready for the excess to be cut off the example try-square]] *Step 8: Re-check the inside angle to ensure it is square, and check if the outside of the blade and handle are true (and carefully plane the relevant edges if not) *Step 9: Soften each of the edges of the square by running the block plane over them at a skewed angle to [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PMFRV98jBZk break the Arris] * === Toolbox Journey Examples: === Share an image of your try square and help others on their [https://subversivewoodworking.co/wiki/index.php/Journeys Journeys]![[File:Example TryPlane Teq 2021.jpg|alt=Image of an example wooden try plane by Tariq, 2021|thumb|400x400px|Example of wooden try plane by [https://subversivewoodworking.co/wiki/index.php/User:Tariq Tariq], 2021|none]] === Further resources: === - [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cxNpwOiF5zQ Wood by Wright instructional video] - [https://www.instructables.com/Wooden-Try-Square/ Instructables step-by-step written guide] - [https://www.craftsmanspace.com/free-projects/try-square-plan.html Craftsmanspace step-by-step written guide with diagrams] 00ddd861d94b4f0559230a0556accd4928b173d6 113 112 2021-09-12T05:53:08Z Tariq 3 wikitext text/x-wiki This project is part of [[The Starter Toolbox]] journey. A try square is used for marking and checking 90° angles on pieces of wood. The ''square'' in the name refers to the 90° angle. To ''try'' a piece of wood is to check if the edges and faces are straight, flat, and square to one another. A try square is made of two key parts fixed together at 90° to form an 'L' shape. [[File:ExplodedTrySquare.png|thumb|Exploded image of wooden try square|390x390px]] === Key Terms === * Handle (also called the 'stock' or the 'post') * Blade (also called the 'beam' or 'tongue' or 'straight edge') *Notch (cut into handle for the blade to fit into) * Inside corner of square (90 degrees) * Outside of square * Dowel Pins === Techniques === * [[Bridle Joint]] * [[Fine Crosscut]] * [[Face Planing]] *[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PMFRV98jBZk Breaking the Arris] === Tools & Materials === *Two different pieces of prepared wood - a thicker piece for the handle and a thinner one for the blade. *Pencil *Marking knife *Marking gauge *Tenon saw (a medium/large rip saw) * Carcass saw (a medium crosscut saw) *Coping saw (optional) * Chisel (same size as notch) * Block plane *Smoothing plane *Glue (slow-setting, e.g., PVA) *Dowel pins *Hand drill *Try square (optional) === Steps === * Step 1: Decide on the size of the try square (it can be useful to have multiple try squares of different sizes). * Step 2: Mark the lengths required on each piece of wood (the handle and blade) using the marking knife and pencil *Step 3: Cut handle and blade to their respective lengths using a [[Fine Crosscut]][[File:TrySquare handle blade layout.jpg|thumb|Example of a handle and blade cut to a selected size: Handle: 3/4" thick x 2" wide x 5" long; Blade: 1/4" thick x 2.5" wide x 10" long.|alt=Example of a handle and blade cut to a selected size: Handle: 3/4" thick x 2" wide x 5" long; Blade: 1/4" thick x 2.5" wide x 10" long.|200x200px|none]] *Step 4: Prepare the handle and blade for the [[Bridle Joint]]: ** 4a: Measure the notch for the bridle joint in the end of the handle (using the marking gauge to measure and mark two parallel lines into the end of the handle to the depth of 3/4th that of the blade width, and the same width as the thickness of the blade).[[File:TryPlace marking the notch.jpg|thumb|Example of a the notch marked out ready to cut in the end of a handle |200x200px|none]] ** 4b: Use the Tenon saw to cut each of the parallel lines previously marked into the handle. **4c: Using the Coping saw, cut just above the base of the middle section and remove the waste to leave the two forks of the notch. ** 4d: True the floor of the notch with the chisel (by carefully removing any remaining waste section with the chisel so that the floor of the notch is flat). ** **4e: Carefully test if the blade matches the size of the notch and, if needed, [[Face Planing|Face Plane]] the end of the blade until it can slip into the notch without bending the two forks.[[File:TrySquare V1 Teq JoinImage.jpg|alt=Image of wooden try plane angled to show the join|thumb|200x200px|Example of first-attempt of the join|none]] * Step 5: Join the handle and the blade by gluing the planed-end of the blade into the notch prepared in the handle (and immediately do step 6) *Step 6: ''Before the glue sets'', manipulate the blade and handle so that the inside corner of the square is a true 90 degree. If an existing square is not available, check if the square has a 90° angle by directly comparing the squared line drawn by the try square ''against itself''. To do this, work from a perfectly flat edge, and if there is no discrepancy between the squared line drawn with the try square used one way and then flipped over you have a perfect 90° angle. if there is a discrepancy, carefully plane the outside edge of the blade until there isn't.[[File:Testing a try square for accuracy commons.wikimedia.png|link=https://subversivewoodworking.co/wiki/index.php/File:Testing%20a%20try%20square%20for%20accuracy%20commons.wikimedia.png|alt=Image of testing a square for accuracy by working from a perfectly flat edge, and once there is no discrepancy between the squared line drawn with the try square used one way and then flipped over you have a perfect 90° angle|none|thumb|200x200px]] *Step 7: After the glue sets, insert dowel pins where the blade and handle intersect. ** 7a: Drill holes for the dowel pins **7b: Insert prepared dowel pins into the drilled hole **7c: Saw off the excess dowel from the pins **7d: Plane the pins smooth[[File:TrySquare Step InsertingDowelPins.jpg|link=https://subversivewoodworking.co/wiki/index.php/File:TrySquare%20Step%20InsertingDowelPins.jpg|alt=Image of dowels inserted into try plane joing|none|thumb|200x200px|Dowels inserted and ready for the excess to be cut off the example try-square]] *Step 8: Re-check the inside angle to ensure it is square, and check if the outside of the blade and handle are true (and carefully plane the relevant edges if not) *Step 9: Soften each of the edges of the square by running the block plane over them at a skewed angle to [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PMFRV98jBZk break the Arris] * === Toolbox Journey Examples: === Share an image of your try square and help others on their [https://subversivewoodworking.co/wiki/index.php/Journeys Journeys][[File:Example TryPlane Teq 2021.jpg|alt=Image of an example wooden try plane by Tariq, 2021|thumb|400x400px|Example of wooden try plane by [https://subversivewoodworking.co/wiki/index.php/User:Tariq Tariq], 2021|none]] === Further resources: === - [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cxNpwOiF5zQ Wood by Wright instructional video] - [https://www.instructables.com/Wooden-Try-Square/ Instructables step-by-step written guide] - [https://www.craftsmanspace.com/free-projects/try-square-plan.html Craftsmanspace step-by-step written guide with diagrams] 781d97fa31e69ac08dc81309015b22aaa7d44a72 114 113 2021-09-12T05:53:42Z Tariq 3 wikitext text/x-wiki This project is part of [[The Starter Toolbox]] journey. A try square is used for marking and checking 90° angles on pieces of wood. The ''square'' in the name refers to the 90° angle. To ''try'' a piece of wood is to check if the edges and faces are straight, flat, and square to one another. A try square is made of two key parts fixed together at 90° to form an 'L' shape. [[File:ExplodedTrySquare.png|thumb|Exploded image of wooden try square|390x390px]] === Key Terms === * Handle (also called the 'stock' or the 'post') * Blade (also called the 'beam' or 'tongue' or 'straight edge') *Notch (cut into handle for the blade to fit into) * Inside corner of square (90 degrees) * Outside of square * Dowel Pins === Techniques === * [[Bridle Joint]] * [[Fine Crosscut]] * [[Face Planing]] *[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PMFRV98jBZk Breaking the Arris] === Tools & Materials === *Two different pieces of prepared wood - a thicker piece for the handle and a thinner one for the blade. *Pencil *Marking knife *Marking gauge *Tenon saw (a medium/large rip saw) * Carcass saw (a medium crosscut saw) *Coping saw (optional) * Chisel (same size as notch) * Block plane *Smoothing plane *Glue (slow-setting, e.g., PVA) *Dowel pins *Hand drill *Try square (optional) === Steps === * Step 1: Decide on the size of the try square (it can be useful to have multiple try squares of different sizes). * Step 2: Mark the lengths required on each piece of wood (the handle and blade) using the marking knife and pencil *Step 3: Cut handle and blade to their respective lengths using a [[Fine Crosscut]][[File:TrySquare handle blade layout.jpg|thumb|Example of a handle and blade cut to a selected size: Handle: 3/4" thick x 2" wide x 5" long; Blade: 1/4" thick x 2.5" wide x 10" long.|alt=Example of a handle and blade cut to a selected size: Handle: 3/4" thick x 2" wide x 5" long; Blade: 1/4" thick x 2.5" wide x 10" long.|200x200px|none]] *Step 4: Prepare the handle and blade for the [[Bridle Joint]]: ** 4a: Measure the notch for the bridle joint in the end of the handle (using the marking gauge to measure and mark two parallel lines into the end of the handle to the depth of 3/4th that of the blade width, and the same width as the thickness of the blade).[[File:TryPlace marking the notch.jpg|thumb|Example of a the notch marked out ready to cut in the end of a handle |200x200px|none]] ** 4b: Use the Tenon saw to cut each of the parallel lines previously marked into the handle. **4c: Using the Coping saw, cut just above the base of the middle section and remove the waste to leave the two forks of the notch. ** 4d: True the floor of the notch with the chisel (by carefully removing any remaining waste section with the chisel so that the floor of the notch is flat). ** **4e: Carefully test if the blade matches the size of the notch and, if needed, [[Face Planing|Face Plane]] the end of the blade until it can slip into the notch without bending the two forks.[[File:TrySquare V1 Teq JoinImage.jpg|alt=Image of wooden try plane angled to show the join|thumb|200x200px|Example of first-attempt of the join|none]] * Step 5: Join the handle and the blade by gluing the planed-end of the blade into the notch prepared in the handle (and immediately do step 6) *Step 6: ''Before the glue sets'', manipulate the blade and handle so that the inside corner of the square is a true 90 degree. If an existing square is not available, check if the square has a 90° angle by directly comparing the squared line drawn by the try square ''against itself''. To do this, work from a perfectly flat edge, and if there is no discrepancy between the squared line drawn with the try square used one way and then flipped over you have a perfect 90° angle. if there is a discrepancy, carefully plane the outside edge of the blade until there isn't.[[File:Testing a try square for accuracy commons.wikimedia.png|link=https://subversivewoodworking.co/wiki/index.php/File:Testing%20a%20try%20square%20for%20accuracy%20commons.wikimedia.png|alt=Image of testing a square for accuracy by working from a perfectly flat edge, and once there is no discrepancy between the squared line drawn with the try square used one way and then flipped over you have a perfect 90° angle|none|thumb|200x200px]] *Step 7: After the glue sets, insert dowel pins where the blade and handle intersect. ** 7a: Drill holes for the dowel pins **7b: Insert prepared dowel pins into the drilled hole **7c: Saw off the excess dowel from the pins **7d: Plane the pins smooth[[File:TrySquare Step InsertingDowelPins.jpg|link=https://subversivewoodworking.co/wiki/index.php/File:TrySquare%20Step%20InsertingDowelPins.jpg|alt=Image of dowels inserted into try plane joing|none|thumb|200x200px|Dowels inserted and ready for the excess to be cut off the example try-square]] *Step 8: Re-check the inside angle to ensure it is square, and check if the outside of the blade and handle are true (and carefully plane the relevant edges if not) *Step 9: Soften each of the edges of the square by running the block plane over them at a skewed angle to break the arris * === Toolbox Journey Examples: === Share an image of your try square and help others on their [https://subversivewoodworking.co/wiki/index.php/Journeys Journeys][[File:Example TryPlane Teq 2021.jpg|alt=Image of an example wooden try plane by Tariq, 2021|thumb|400x400px|Example of wooden try plane by [https://subversivewoodworking.co/wiki/index.php/User:Tariq Tariq], 2021|none]] === Further resources: === - [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cxNpwOiF5zQ Wood by Wright instructional video] - [https://www.instructables.com/Wooden-Try-Square/ Instructables step-by-step written guide] - [https://www.craftsmanspace.com/free-projects/try-square-plan.html Craftsmanspace step-by-step written guide with diagrams] 5de1957f1592949efb4d2015a7c591af1c239092 115 114 2021-09-12T05:54:15Z Tariq 3 wikitext text/x-wiki This project is part of [[The Starter Toolbox]] journey. A try square is used for marking and checking 90° angles on pieces of wood. The ''square'' in the name refers to the 90° angle. To ''try'' a piece of wood is to check if the edges and faces are straight, flat, and square to one another. A try square is made of two key parts fixed together at 90° to form an 'L' shape. [[File:ExplodedTrySquare.png|thumb|Exploded image of wooden try square|390x390px]] === Key Terms === * Handle (also called the 'stock' or the 'post') * Blade (also called the 'beam' or 'tongue' or 'straight edge') *Notch (cut into handle for the blade to fit into) * Inside corner of square (90 degrees) * Outside of square * Dowel Pins === Techniques === * [[Bridle Joint]] * [[Fine Crosscut]] * [[Face Planing]] *[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PMFRV98jBZk Breaking the Arris] === Tools & Materials === *Two different pieces of prepared wood - a thicker piece for the handle and a thinner one for the blade. *Pencil *Marking knife *Marking gauge *Tenon saw (a medium/large rip saw) * Carcass saw (a medium crosscut saw) *Coping saw (optional) * Chisel (same size as notch) * Block plane *Smoothing plane *Glue (slow-setting, e.g., PVA) *Dowel pins *Hand drill *Try square (optional) === Steps === * Step 1: Decide on the size of the try square (it can be useful to have multiple try squares of different sizes). * Step 2: Mark the lengths required on each piece of wood (the handle and blade) using the marking knife and pencil *Step 3: Cut handle and blade to their respective lengths using a [[Fine Crosscut]][[File:TrySquare handle blade layout.jpg|thumb|Example of a handle and blade cut to a selected size: Handle: 3/4" thick x 2" wide x 5" long; Blade: 1/4" thick x 2.5" wide x 10" long.|alt=Example of a handle and blade cut to a selected size: Handle: 3/4" thick x 2" wide x 5" long; Blade: 1/4" thick x 2.5" wide x 10" long.|200x200px|none]] *Step 4: Prepare the handle and blade for the [[Bridle Joint]]: ** 4a: Measure the notch for the bridle joint in the end of the handle (using the marking gauge to measure and mark two parallel lines into the end of the handle to the depth of 3/4th that of the blade width, and the same width as the thickness of the blade).[[File:TryPlace marking the notch.jpg|thumb|Example of a the notch marked out ready to cut in the end of a handle |200x200px|none]] ** 4b: Use the Tenon saw to cut each of the parallel lines previously marked into the handle. **4c: Using the Coping saw, cut just above the base of the middle section and remove the waste to leave the two forks of the notch. ** 4d: True the floor of the notch with the chisel (by carefully removing any remaining waste section with the chisel so that the floor of the notch is flat). ** **4e: Carefully test if the blade matches the size of the notch and, if needed, [[Face Planing|Face Plane]] the end of the blade until it can slip into the notch without bending the two forks.[[File:TrySquare V1 Teq JoinImage.jpg|alt=Image of wooden try plane angled to show the join|thumb|200x200px|Example of first-attempt of the join|none]] * Step 5: Join the handle and the blade by gluing the planed-end of the blade into the notch prepared in the handle (and immediately do step 6) *Step 6: ''Before the glue sets'', manipulate the blade and handle so that the inside corner of the square is a true 90 degree. If an existing square is not available, check if the square has a 90° angle by directly comparing the squared line drawn by the try square ''against itself''. To do this, work from a perfectly flat edge, and if there is no discrepancy between the squared line drawn with the try square used one way and then flipped over you have a perfect 90° angle. if there is a discrepancy, carefully plane the outside edge of the blade until there isn't.[[File:Testing a try square for accuracy commons.wikimedia.png|link=https://subversivewoodworking.co/wiki/index.php/File:Testing%20a%20try%20square%20for%20accuracy%20commons.wikimedia.png|alt=Image of testing a square for accuracy by working from a perfectly flat edge, and once there is no discrepancy between the squared line drawn with the try square used one way and then flipped over you have a perfect 90° angle|none|thumb|200x200px]] *Step 7: After the glue sets, insert dowel pins where the blade and handle intersect. ** 7a: Drill holes for the dowel pins **7b: Insert prepared dowel pins into the drilled hole **7c: Saw off the excess dowel from the pins **7d: Plane the pins smooth[[File:TrySquare Step InsertingDowelPins.jpg|link=https://subversivewoodworking.co/wiki/index.php/File:TrySquare%20Step%20InsertingDowelPins.jpg|alt=Image of dowels inserted into try plane joing|none|thumb|200x200px|Dowels inserted and ready for the excess to be cut off the example try-square]] *Step 8: Re-check the inside angle to ensure it is square, and check if the outside of the blade and handle are true (and carefully plane the relevant edges if not) *Step 9: Soften each of the edges of the square by running the block plane over them at a skewed angle to break the arris * === Finished Examples: === Share an image of your try square and help others on their [https://subversivewoodworking.co/wiki/index.php/Journeys Journeys][[File:Example TryPlane Teq 2021.jpg|alt=Image of an example wooden try plane by Tariq, 2021|thumb|400x400px|Example of wooden try plane by [https://subversivewoodworking.co/wiki/index.php/User:Tariq Tariq], 2021|none]] === Further resources: === - [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cxNpwOiF5zQ Wood by Wright instructional video] - [https://www.instructables.com/Wooden-Try-Square/ Instructables step-by-step written guide] - [https://www.craftsmanspace.com/free-projects/try-square-plan.html Craftsmanspace step-by-step written guide with diagrams] 1bac9437ffb3ecbf8ba6a4f3b76803b9b8f4396a 118 115 2021-09-12T06:29:30Z Tariq 3 Updated link to technique Arrising wikitext text/x-wiki This project is part of [[The Starter Toolbox]] journey. A try square is used for marking and checking 90° angles on pieces of wood. The ''square'' in the name refers to the 90° angle. To ''try'' a piece of wood is to check if the edges and faces are straight, flat, and square to one another. A try square is made of two key parts fixed together at 90° to form an 'L' shape. [[File:ExplodedTrySquare.png|thumb|Exploded image of wooden try square|390x390px]] === Key Terms === * Handle (also called the 'stock' or the 'post') * Blade (also called the 'beam' or 'tongue' or 'straight edge') *Notch (cut into handle for the blade to fit into) * Inside corner of square (90 degrees) * Outside of square * Dowel Pins === Techniques === * [[Bridle Joint]] * [[Fine Crosscut]] * [[Face Planing]] *[[Arrising]] === Tools & Materials === *Two different pieces of prepared wood - a thicker piece for the handle and a thinner one for the blade. *Pencil *Marking knife *Marking gauge *Tenon saw (a medium/large rip saw) * Carcass saw (a medium crosscut saw) *Coping saw (optional) * Chisel (same size as notch) * Block plane *Smoothing plane *Glue (slow-setting, e.g., PVA) *Dowel pins *Hand drill *Try square (optional) === Steps === * Step 1: Decide on the size of the try square (it can be useful to have multiple try squares of different sizes). * Step 2: Mark the lengths required on each piece of wood (the handle and blade) using the marking knife and pencil *Step 3: Cut handle and blade to their respective lengths using a [[Fine Crosscut]][[File:TrySquare handle blade layout.jpg|thumb|Example of a handle and blade cut to a selected size: Handle: 3/4" thick x 2" wide x 5" long; Blade: 1/4" thick x 2.5" wide x 10" long.|alt=Example of a handle and blade cut to a selected size: Handle: 3/4" thick x 2" wide x 5" long; Blade: 1/4" thick x 2.5" wide x 10" long.|200x200px|none]] *Step 4: Prepare the handle and blade for the [[Bridle Joint]]: ** 4a: Measure the notch for the bridle joint in the end of the handle (using the marking gauge to measure and mark two parallel lines into the end of the handle to the depth of 3/4th that of the blade width, and the same width as the thickness of the blade).[[File:TryPlace marking the notch.jpg|thumb|Example of a the notch marked out ready to cut in the end of a handle |200x200px|none]] ** 4b: Use the Tenon saw to cut each of the parallel lines previously marked into the handle. **4c: Using the Coping saw, cut just above the base of the middle section and remove the waste to leave the two forks of the notch. ** 4d: True the floor of the notch with the chisel (by carefully removing any remaining waste section with the chisel so that the floor of the notch is flat). ** **4e: Carefully test if the blade matches the size of the notch and, if needed, [[Face Planing|Face Plane]] the end of the blade until it can slip into the notch without bending the two forks.[[File:TrySquare V1 Teq JoinImage.jpg|alt=Image of wooden try plane angled to show the join|thumb|200x200px|Example of first-attempt of the join|none]] * Step 5: Join the handle and the blade by gluing the planed-end of the blade into the notch prepared in the handle (and immediately do step 6) *Step 6: ''Before the glue sets'', manipulate the blade and handle so that the inside corner of the square is a true 90 degree. If an existing square is not available, check if the square has a 90° angle by directly comparing the squared line drawn by the try square ''against itself''. To do this, work from a perfectly flat edge, and if there is no discrepancy between the squared line drawn with the try square used one way and then flipped over you have a perfect 90° angle. if there is a discrepancy, carefully plane the outside edge of the blade until there isn't.[[File:Testing a try square for accuracy commons.wikimedia.png|link=https://subversivewoodworking.co/wiki/index.php/File:Testing%20a%20try%20square%20for%20accuracy%20commons.wikimedia.png|alt=Image of testing a square for accuracy by working from a perfectly flat edge, and once there is no discrepancy between the squared line drawn with the try square used one way and then flipped over you have a perfect 90° angle|none|thumb|200x200px]] *Step 7: After the glue sets, insert dowel pins where the blade and handle intersect. ** 7a: Drill holes for the dowel pins **7b: Insert prepared dowel pins into the drilled hole **7c: Saw off the excess dowel from the pins **7d: Plane the pins smooth[[File:TrySquare Step InsertingDowelPins.jpg|link=https://subversivewoodworking.co/wiki/index.php/File:TrySquare%20Step%20InsertingDowelPins.jpg|alt=Image of dowels inserted into try plane joing|none|thumb|200x200px|Dowels inserted and ready for the excess to be cut off the example try-square]] *Step 8: Re-check the inside angle to ensure it is square, and check if the outside of the blade and handle are true (and carefully plane the relevant edges if not) *Step 9: Soften each of the edges of the square by running the block plane over them at a skewed angle to break the arris * === Finished Examples: === Share an image of your try square and help others on their [https://subversivewoodworking.co/wiki/index.php/Journeys Journeys][[File:Example TryPlane Teq 2021.jpg|alt=Image of an example wooden try plane by Tariq, 2021|thumb|400x400px|Example of wooden try plane by [https://subversivewoodworking.co/wiki/index.php/User:Tariq Tariq], 2021|none]] === Further resources: === - [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cxNpwOiF5zQ Wood by Wright instructional video] - [https://www.instructables.com/Wooden-Try-Square/ Instructables step-by-step written guide] - [https://www.craftsmanspace.com/free-projects/try-square-plan.html Craftsmanspace step-by-step written guide with diagrams] f369db563842913924759aef788a98bc9db0e41b 119 118 2021-09-12T06:30:36Z Tariq 3 wikitext text/x-wiki This project is part of [[The Starter Toolbox]] journey. A try square is used for marking and checking 90° angles on pieces of wood. The ''square'' in the name refers to the 90° angle. To ''try'' a piece of wood is to check if the edges and faces are straight, flat, and square to one another. A try square is made of two key parts fixed together at 90° to form an 'L' shape. [[File:ExplodedTrySquare.png|thumb|Exploded image of wooden try square|390x390px]] === Key Terms === * Handle (also called the 'stock' or the 'post') * Blade (also called the 'beam' or 'tongue' or 'straight edge') *Notch (cut into handle for the blade to fit into) * Inside corner of square (90 degrees) * Outside of square * Dowel Pins === Techniques === * [[Bridle Joint]] * [[Fine Crosscut]] * [[Face Planing]] *[[Arrising]] === Tools & Materials === *Two different pieces of prepared wood - a thicker piece for the handle and a thinner one for the blade. *Pencil *Marking knife *Marking gauge *Tenon saw (a medium/large rip saw) * Carcass saw (a medium crosscut saw) *Coping saw (optional) * Chisel (same size as notch) * Block plane *Smoothing plane *Glue (slow-setting, e.g., PVA) *Dowel pins *Hand drill *Try square (optional) === Steps === * Step 1: Decide on the size of the try square (it can be useful to have multiple try squares of different sizes). * Step 2: Mark the lengths required on each piece of wood (the handle and blade) using the marking knife and pencil *Step 3: Cut handle and blade to their respective lengths using a [[Fine Crosscut]][[File:TrySquare handle blade layout.jpg|thumb|Example of a handle and blade cut to a selected size: Handle: 3/4" thick x 2" wide x 5" long; Blade: 1/4" thick x 2.5" wide x 10" long.|alt=Example of a handle and blade cut to a selected size: Handle: 3/4" thick x 2" wide x 5" long; Blade: 1/4" thick x 2.5" wide x 10" long.|200x200px|none]] *Step 4: Prepare the handle and blade for the [[Bridle Joint]]: ** 4a: Measure the notch for the bridle joint in the end of the handle (using the marking gauge to measure and mark two parallel lines into the end of the handle to the depth of 3/4th that of the blade width, and the same width as the thickness of the blade).[[File:TryPlace marking the notch.jpg|thumb|Example of a the notch marked out ready to cut in the end of a handle |200x200px|none]] ** 4b: Use the Tenon saw to cut each of the parallel lines previously marked into the handle. **4c: Using the Coping saw, cut just above the base of the middle section and remove the waste to leave the two forks of the notch. ** 4d: True the floor of the notch with the chisel (by carefully removing any remaining waste section with the chisel so that the floor of the notch is flat). ** **4e: Carefully test if the blade matches the size of the notch and, if needed, [[Face Planing|Face Plane]] the end of the blade until it can slip into the notch without bending the two forks.[[File:TrySquare V1 Teq JoinImage.jpg|alt=Image of wooden try plane angled to show the join|thumb|200x200px|Example of first-attempt of the join|none]] * Step 5: Join the handle and the blade by gluing the planed-end of the blade into the notch prepared in the handle (and immediately do step 6) *Step 6: ''Before the glue sets'', manipulate the blade and handle so that the inside corner of the square is a true 90 degree. If an existing square is not available, check if the square has a 90° angle by directly comparing the squared line drawn by the try square ''against itself''. To do this, work from a perfectly flat edge, and if there is no discrepancy between the squared line drawn with the try square used one way and then flipped over you have a perfect 90° angle. if there is a discrepancy, carefully plane the outside edge of the blade until there isn't.[[File:Testing a try square for accuracy commons.wikimedia.png|link=https://subversivewoodworking.co/wiki/index.php/File:Testing%20a%20try%20square%20for%20accuracy%20commons.wikimedia.png|alt=Image of testing a square for accuracy by working from a perfectly flat edge, and once there is no discrepancy between the squared line drawn with the try square used one way and then flipped over you have a perfect 90° angle|none|thumb|200x200px]] *Step 7: After the glue sets, insert dowel pins where the blade and handle intersect. ** 7a: Drill holes for the dowel pins **7b: Insert prepared dowel pins into the drilled hole **7c: Saw off the excess dowel from the pins **7d: Plane the pins smooth[[File:TrySquare Step InsertingDowelPins.jpg|link=https://subversivewoodworking.co/wiki/index.php/File:TrySquare%20Step%20InsertingDowelPins.jpg|alt=Image of dowels inserted into try plane joing|none|thumb|200x200px|Dowels inserted and ready for the excess to be cut off the example try-square]] *Step 8: Re-check the inside angle to ensure it is square, and check if the outside of the blade and handle are true (and carefully plane the relevant edges if not) *Step 9: Soften each of the edges of the square by running the block plane over them at a skewed angle to break the arris (see the [[Arrising]] technique for more detail) * === Finished Examples: === Share an image of your try square and help others on their [https://subversivewoodworking.co/wiki/index.php/Journeys Journeys][[File:Example TryPlane Teq 2021.jpg|alt=Image of an example wooden try plane by Tariq, 2021|thumb|400x400px|Example of wooden try plane by [https://subversivewoodworking.co/wiki/index.php/User:Tariq Tariq], 2021|none]] === Further resources: === - [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cxNpwOiF5zQ Wood by Wright instructional video] - [https://www.instructables.com/Wooden-Try-Square/ Instructables step-by-step written guide] - [https://www.craftsmanspace.com/free-projects/try-square-plan.html Craftsmanspace step-by-step written guide with diagrams] 549540f936441d504858eb26f9b8bbda30dea492 124 119 2021-09-13T08:23:22Z Tariq 3 wikitext text/x-wiki This project is part of [[The Starter Toolbox]] journey. A try square is used for marking and checking 90° angles on pieces of wood. The ''square'' in the name refers to the 90° angle. To ''try'' a piece of wood is to check if the edges and faces are straight, flat, and square to one another. A try square is made of two key parts fixed together at 90° to form an 'L' shape. [[File:ExplodedTrySquare.png|thumb|Exploded image of wooden try square|390x390px]] === Key Terms === * Handle (also called the 'stock' or the 'post') * Blade (also called the 'beam' or 'tongue' or 'straight edge') *Notch (cut into handle for the blade to fit into) * Inside corner of square (90 degrees) * Outside of square * Dowel Pins === Techniques === * [[Bridle Joint]] * [[Fine Crosscut]] * [[Face Planing]] *[[Arrising]] === Tools & Materials === *Two different pieces of prepared wood - a thicker piece for the handle and a thinner one for the blade. *Pencil *Marking knife *Marking gauge *Tenon saw (a medium/large rip saw) * Carcass saw (a medium crosscut saw) *Coping saw (optional) * Chisel (same size as notch) * Block plane *Smoothing plane *Glue (slow-setting, e.g., PVA) *Dowel pins *Hand drill *Try square (optional) === Steps === * Step 1: Decide on the size of the try square (it can be useful to have multiple try squares of different sizes). * Step 2: Mark the lengths required on each piece of wood (the handle and blade) using the marking knife and pencil *Step 3: Cut handle and blade to their respective lengths using a [[Fine Crosscut]][[File:TrySquare handle blade layout.jpg|thumb|Example of a handle and blade cut to a selected size: Handle: 3/4" thick x 2" wide x 5" long; Blade: 1/4" thick x 2.5" wide x 10" long.|alt=Example of a handle and blade cut to a selected size: Handle: 3/4" thick x 2" wide x 5" long; Blade: 1/4" thick x 2.5" wide x 10" long.|200x200px|none]] *Step 4: Prepare the handle and blade for the [[Bridle Joint]]: ** 4a: Measure the notch for the bridle joint in the end of the handle (using the marking gauge to measure and mark two parallel lines into the end of the handle to the depth of 3/4th that of the blade width, and the same width as the thickness of the blade).[[File:TryPlace marking the notch.jpg|thumb|Example of a the notch marked out ready to cut in the end of a handle |200x200px|none]] ** 4b: Use the Tenon saw to cut each of the parallel lines previously marked into the handle. **4c: Using the Coping saw, cut just above the base of the middle section and remove the waste to leave the two forks of the notch. ** 4d: True the floor of the notch with the chisel (by carefully removing any remaining waste section with the chisel so that the floor of the notch is flat). ** **4e: Carefully test if the blade matches the size of the notch and, if needed, [[Face Planing|Face Plane]] the end of the blade until it can slip into the notch without bending the two forks.[[File:TrySquare V1 Teq JoinImage.jpg|alt=Image of wooden try plane angled to show the join|thumb|200x200px|Example of first-attempt of the join|none]] * Step 5: Join the handle and the blade by gluing the planed-end of the blade into the notch prepared in the handle (and immediately do step 6) *Step 6: ''Before the glue sets'', manipulate the blade and handle so that the inside corner of the square is a true 90 degree. If an existing square is not available, check if the square has a 90° angle by directly comparing the squared line drawn by the try square ''against itself''. To do this, work from a perfectly flat edge, and if there is no discrepancy between the squared line drawn with the try square used one way and then flipped over you have a perfect 90° angle. [[File:Testing a try square for accuracy commons.wikimedia.png|link=https://subversivewoodworking.co/wiki/index.php/File:Testing%20a%20try%20square%20for%20accuracy%20commons.wikimedia.png|alt=Image of testing a square for accuracy by working from a perfectly flat edge, and once there is no discrepancy between the squared line drawn with the try square used one way and then flipped over you have a perfect 90° angle|none|thumb|200x200px]] *Step 7: After the glue sets, insert dowel pins where the blade and handle intersect. ** 7a: Drill holes for the dowel pins **7b: Insert prepared dowel pins into the drilled hole **7c: Saw off the excess dowel from the pins **7d: Plane the pins smooth[[File:TrySquare Step InsertingDowelPins.jpg|link=https://subversivewoodworking.co/wiki/index.php/File:TrySquare%20Step%20InsertingDowelPins.jpg|alt=Image of dowels inserted into try plane joing|none|thumb|200x200px|Dowels inserted and ready for the excess to be cut off the example try-square]] *Step 8: Re-check the inside angle to ensure it is square, and check if the outside of the blade and handle are true (and carefully plane the relevant edges if not) *Step 9: Soften each of the edges of the square by running the block plane over them at a skewed angle to break the arris (see the [[Arrising]] technique for more detail) * === Finished Examples: === Share an image of your try square and help others on their [https://subversivewoodworking.co/wiki/index.php/Journeys Journeys][[File:Example TryPlane Teq 2021.jpg|alt=Image of an example wooden try plane by Tariq, 2021|thumb|400x400px|Example of wooden try plane by [https://subversivewoodworking.co/wiki/index.php/User:Tariq Tariq], 2021|none]] === Further resources: === - [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cxNpwOiF5zQ Wood by Wright instructional video] - [https://www.instructables.com/Wooden-Try-Square/ Instructables step-by-step written guide] - [https://www.craftsmanspace.com/free-projects/try-square-plan.html Craftsmanspace step-by-step written guide with diagrams] 43c185f63abb3ce29b85b38356dc1f076b4b59af 128 124 2022-03-20T04:27:19Z Tariq 3 wikitext text/x-wiki This project is part of [[The Starter Toolbox]] journey. A try square is used for marking and checking 90° angles on pieces of wood. The ''square'' in the name refers to the 90° angle. To ''try'' a piece of wood is to check if the edges and faces are straight, flat, and square to one another. A try square is made of two key parts fixed together at 90° to form an 'L' shape. [[File:ExplodedTrySquare.png|thumb|Exploded image of wooden try square|390x390px]] === Key Terms === * Handle (also called the 'stock' or the 'post') * Blade (also called the 'beam' or 'tongue' or 'straight edge') *Notch (cut into handle for the blade to fit into) * Inside corner of square (90 degrees) * Outside of square * Pins (dowel) === Techniques === * [[Bridle Joint]] * [[Fine Crosscut]] * [[Face Planing]] *[[Arrising]] === Tools & Materials === *Two different pieces of prepared wood - a thicker piece for the handle and a thinner one for the blade. *Pencil *Marking knife *Marking gauge *Tenon saw (a medium/large rip saw) * Carcass saw (a medium crosscut saw) *Coping saw (optional) * Chisel (same size as notch) * Block plane *Smoothing plane *Glue (slow-setting, e.g., PVA) *Dowel pins *Hand drill *Try square (optional) === Steps === * Step 1: Decide on the size of the try square (it can be useful to have multiple try squares of different sizes). * Step 2: Mark the lengths required on each piece of wood (the handle and blade) using the marking knife and pencil *Step 3: Cut handle and blade to their respective lengths using a [[Fine Crosscut]][[File:TrySquare handle blade layout.jpg|thumb|Example of a handle and blade cut to a selected size: Handle: 3/4" thick x 2" wide x 5" long; Blade: 1/4" thick x 2.5" wide x 10" long.|alt=Example of a handle and blade cut to a selected size: Handle: 3/4" thick x 2" wide x 5" long; Blade: 1/4" thick x 2.5" wide x 10" long.|200x200px|none]] *Step 4: Prepare the handle and blade for the [[Bridle Joint]]: ** 4a: Measure the notch for the bridle joint in the end of the handle (using the marking gauge to measure and mark two parallel lines into the end of the handle to the depth of 3/4th that of the blade width, and the same width as the thickness of the blade).[[File:TryPlace marking the notch.jpg|thumb|Example of a the notch marked out ready to cut in the end of a handle |200x200px|none]] ** 4b: Use the Tenon saw to cut each of the parallel lines previously marked into the handle. **4c: Using the Coping saw, cut just above the base of the middle section and remove the waste to leave the two forks of the notch. ** 4d: True the floor of the notch with the chisel (by carefully removing any remaining waste section with the chisel so that the floor of the notch is flat). ** **4e: Carefully test if the blade matches the size of the notch and, if needed, [[Face Planing|Face Plane]] the end of the blade until it can slip into the notch without bending the two forks.[[File:TrySquare V1 Teq JoinImage.jpg|alt=Image of wooden try plane angled to show the join|thumb|200x200px|Example of first-attempt of the join|none]] * Step 5: Join the handle and the blade by gluing the planed-end of the blade into the notch prepared in the handle (and immediately do step 6) *Step 6: ''Before the glue sets'', manipulate the blade and handle so that the inside corner of the square is a true 90 degree. If an existing square is not available, check if the square has a 90° angle by directly comparing the squared line drawn by the try square ''against itself''. To do this, work from a perfectly flat edge, and if there is no discrepancy between the squared line drawn with the try square used one way and then flipped over you have a perfect 90° angle. [[File:Testing a try square for accuracy commons.wikimedia.png|link=https://subversivewoodworking.co/wiki/index.php/File:Testing%20a%20try%20square%20for%20accuracy%20commons.wikimedia.png|alt=Image of testing a square for accuracy by working from a perfectly flat edge, and once there is no discrepancy between the squared line drawn with the try square used one way and then flipped over you have a perfect 90° angle|none|thumb|200x200px]] *Step 7: After the glue sets, insert dowel pins where the blade and handle intersect. ** 7a: Drill holes for the dowel pins **7b: Insert prepared dowel pins into the drilled hole **7c: Saw off the excess dowel from the pins **7d: Plane the pins smooth[[File:TrySquare Step InsertingDowelPins.jpg|link=https://subversivewoodworking.co/wiki/index.php/File:TrySquare%20Step%20InsertingDowelPins.jpg|alt=Image of dowels inserted into try plane joing|none|thumb|200x200px|Dowels inserted and ready for the excess to be cut off the example try-square]] *Step 8: Re-check the inside angle to ensure it is square, and check if the outside of the blade and handle are true (and carefully plane the relevant edges if not) *Step 9: Soften each of the edges of the square by running the block plane over them at a skewed angle to break the arris (see the [[Arrising]] technique for more detail) * === Finished Examples: === Share an image of your try square and help others on their [https://subversivewoodworking.co/wiki/index.php/Journeys Journeys][[File:Example TryPlane Teq 2021.jpg|alt=Image of an example wooden try plane by Tariq, 2021|thumb|400x400px|Example of wooden try plane by [https://subversivewoodworking.co/wiki/index.php/User:Tariq Tariq], 2021|none]] === Further resources: === - [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cxNpwOiF5zQ Wood by Wright instructional video] - [https://www.instructables.com/Wooden-Try-Square/ Instructables step-by-step written guide] - [https://www.craftsmanspace.com/free-projects/try-square-plan.html Craftsmanspace step-by-step written guide with diagrams] b6499821e4475a2bf9e91730aaeea259e5655be8 129 128 2022-03-20T04:56:16Z Tariq 3 wikitext text/x-wiki This project is part of [[The Starter Toolbox]] journey. A try square is used for marking and checking 90° angles on pieces of wood. The ''square'' in the name refers to the 90° angle. To ''try'' a piece of wood is to check if the edges and faces are straight, flat, and square to one another. A try square is made of two key parts fixed together at 90° to form an 'L' shape. [[File:ExplodedTrySquare.png|thumb|Exploded image of wooden try square|390x390px]] === Key Terms === * Handle (also called the 'stock' or the 'post') * Blade (also called the 'beam' or 'tongue' or 'straight edge') *Notch (cut into handle for the blade to fit into) * Inside corner of square (90 degrees) * Outside of square * Pins (dowel or a piece of equivalent round wooden stock) === Techniques === * [[Bridle Joint]] * [[Fine Crosscut]] * [[Face Planing]] *[[Arrising]] === Tools & Materials === *Two different pieces of prepared wood - a thicker piece for the handle and a thinner one for the blade. *Pencil *Marking knife *Marking gauge *Tenon saw (a medium/large rip saw) * Carcass saw (a medium crosscut saw) *Coping saw (optional) * Chisel (same size as notch) * Block plane *Smoothing plane *Glue (slow-setting, e.g., PVA) *Dowel pins *Hand drill *Try square (optional) === Steps === * Step 1: Decide on the size of the try square (it can be useful to have multiple try squares of different sizes). * Step 2: Mark the lengths required on each piece of wood (the handle and blade) using the marking knife and pencil *Step 3: Cut handle and blade to their respective lengths using a [[Fine Crosscut]][[File:TrySquare handle blade layout.jpg|thumb|Example of a handle and blade cut to a selected size: Handle: 3/4" thick x 2" wide x 5" long; Blade: 1/4" thick x 2.5" wide x 10" long.|alt=Example of a handle and blade cut to a selected size: Handle: 3/4" thick x 2" wide x 5" long; Blade: 1/4" thick x 2.5" wide x 10" long.|200x200px|none]] *Step 4: Prepare the handle and blade for the [[Bridle Joint]]: ** 4a: Measure the notch for the bridle joint in the end of the handle (using the marking gauge to measure and mark two parallel lines into the end of the handle to the depth of 3/4th that of the blade width, and the same width as the thickness of the blade).[[File:TryPlace marking the notch.jpg|thumb|Example of a the notch marked out ready to cut in the end of a handle |200x200px|none]] ** 4b: Use the Tenon saw to cut each of the parallel lines previously marked into the handle. **4c: Using the Coping saw, cut just above the base of the middle section and remove the waste to leave the two forks of the notch. ** 4d: True the floor of the notch with the chisel (by carefully removing any remaining waste section with the chisel so that the floor of the notch is flat). ** **4e: Carefully test if the blade matches the size of the notch and, if needed, [[Face Planing|Face Plane]] the end of the blade until it can slip into the notch without bending the two forks.[[File:TrySquare V1 Teq JoinImage.jpg|alt=Image of wooden try plane angled to show the join|thumb|200x200px|Example of first-attempt of the join|none]] * Step 5: Join the handle and the blade by gluing the planed-end of the blade into the notch prepared in the handle (and immediately do step 6) *Step 6: ''Before the glue sets'', manipulate the blade and handle so that the inside corner of the square is a true 90 degree. If an existing square is not available, check if the square has a 90° angle by directly comparing the squared line drawn by the try square ''against itself''. To do this, work from a perfectly flat edge, and if there is no discrepancy between the squared line drawn with the try square used one way and then flipped over you have a perfect 90° angle. [[File:Testing a try square for accuracy commons.wikimedia.png|link=https://subversivewoodworking.co/wiki/index.php/File:Testing%20a%20try%20square%20for%20accuracy%20commons.wikimedia.png|alt=Image of testing a square for accuracy by working from a perfectly flat edge, and once there is no discrepancy between the squared line drawn with the try square used one way and then flipped over you have a perfect 90° angle|none|thumb|200x200px]] *Step 7: After the glue sets, insert dowel pins where the blade and handle intersect. ** 7a: Drill holes for the dowel pins **7b: Insert prepared dowel pins into the drilled hole **7c: Saw off the excess dowel from the pins **7d: Plane the pins smooth[[File:TrySquare Step InsertingDowelPins.jpg|link=https://subversivewoodworking.co/wiki/index.php/File:TrySquare%20Step%20InsertingDowelPins.jpg|alt=Image of dowels inserted into try plane joing|none|thumb|200x200px|Dowels inserted and ready for the excess to be cut off the example try-square]] *Step 8: Re-check the inside angle to ensure it is square, and check if the outside of the blade and handle are true (and carefully plane the relevant edges if not) *Step 9: Soften each of the edges of the square by running the block plane over them at a skewed angle to break the arris (see the [[Arrising]] technique for more detail) * === Finished Examples: === Share an image of your try square and help others on their [https://subversivewoodworking.co/wiki/index.php/Journeys Journeys][[File:Example TryPlane Teq 2021.jpg|alt=Image of an example wooden try plane by Tariq, 2021|thumb|400x400px|Example of wooden try plane by [https://subversivewoodworking.co/wiki/index.php/User:Tariq Tariq], 2021|none]] === Further resources: === - [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cxNpwOiF5zQ Wood by Wright instructional video] - [https://www.instructables.com/Wooden-Try-Square/ Instructables step-by-step written guide] - [https://www.craftsmanspace.com/free-projects/try-square-plan.html Craftsmanspace step-by-step written guide with diagrams] d6251d2ef550fde6bb0377e83a0cfe711a66fdf5 133 129 2022-03-20T08:12:01Z Tariq 3 wikitext text/x-wiki This project is part of [[The Starter Toolbox]] journey. A try square is used for marking and checking 90° angles on pieces of wood. The ''square'' in the name refers to the 90° angle. To ''try'' a piece of wood is to check if the edges and faces are straight, flat, and square to one another. A try square is made of two key parts fixed together at 90° to form an 'L' shape. [[File:ExplodedTrySquare.png|thumb|Exploded image of wooden try square|390x390px]] === Key Terms === * Handle (also called the 'stock' or the 'post') * Blade (also called the 'beam' or 'tongue' or 'straight edge') *Notch (cut into handle for the blade to fit into) * Inside corner of square (90 degrees) * Outside of square * Pins (dowel or a piece of equivalent round wooden stock) === Materials === *Two different pieces of prepared wood - a thicker piece for the handle and a thinner one for the blade. *Glue (slow-setting, e.g., PVA) *Dowel pins === Tools === *Pencil *Marking knife *Marking gauge *Tenon saw (a medium/large rip saw) * Carcass saw (a medium crosscut saw) *Coping saw (optional) * Chisel (same size as notch) * Block plane *Smoothing plane *Hand drill *Try square (optional === Techniques === * [[Bridle Joint]] * [[Fine Crosscut]] * [[Face Planing]] *[[Arrising]] === Steps === * Step 1: Decide on the size of the try square (it can be useful to have multiple try squares of different sizes). * Step 2: Mark the lengths required on each piece of wood (the handle and blade) using the marking knife and pencil *Step 3: Cut handle and blade to their respective lengths using a [[Fine Crosscut]][[File:TrySquare handle blade layout.jpg|thumb|Example of a handle and blade cut to a selected size: Handle: 3/4" thick x 2" wide x 5" long; Blade: 1/4" thick x 2.5" wide x 10" long.|alt=Example of a handle and blade cut to a selected size: Handle: 3/4" thick x 2" wide x 5" long; Blade: 1/4" thick x 2.5" wide x 10" long.|200x200px|none]] *Step 4: Prepare the handle and blade for the [[Bridle Joint]]: ** 4a: Measure the notch for the bridle joint in the end of the handle (using the marking gauge to measure and mark two parallel lines into the end of the handle to the depth of 3/4th that of the blade width, and the same width as the thickness of the blade).[[File:TryPlace marking the notch.jpg|thumb|Example of a the notch marked out ready to cut in the end of a handle |200x200px|none]] ** 4b: Use the Tenon saw to cut each of the parallel lines previously marked into the handle. **4c: Using the Coping saw, cut just above the base of the middle section and remove the waste to leave the two forks of the notch. ** 4d: True the floor of the notch with the chisel (by carefully removing any remaining waste section with the chisel so that the floor of the notch is flat). ** **4e: Carefully test if the blade matches the size of the notch and, if needed, [[Face Planing|Face Plane]] the end of the blade until it can slip into the notch without bending the two forks.[[File:TrySquare V1 Teq JoinImage.jpg|alt=Image of wooden try plane angled to show the join|thumb|200x200px|Example of first-attempt of the join|none]] * Step 5: Join the handle and the blade by gluing the planed-end of the blade into the notch prepared in the handle (and immediately do step 6) *Step 6: ''Before the glue sets'', manipulate the blade and handle so that the inside corner of the square is a true 90 degree. If an existing square is not available, check if the square has a 90° angle by directly comparing the squared line drawn by the try square ''against itself''. To do this, work from a perfectly flat edge, and if there is no discrepancy between the squared line drawn with the try square used one way and then flipped over you have a perfect 90° angle. [[File:Testing a try square for accuracy commons.wikimedia.png|link=https://subversivewoodworking.co/wiki/index.php/File:Testing%20a%20try%20square%20for%20accuracy%20commons.wikimedia.png|alt=Image of testing a square for accuracy by working from a perfectly flat edge, and once there is no discrepancy between the squared line drawn with the try square used one way and then flipped over you have a perfect 90° angle|none|thumb|200x200px]] *Step 7: After the glue sets, insert dowel pins where the blade and handle intersect. ** 7a: Drill holes for the dowel pins **7b: Insert prepared dowel pins into the drilled hole **7c: Saw off the excess dowel from the pins **7d: Plane the pins smooth[[File:TrySquare Step InsertingDowelPins.jpg|link=https://subversivewoodworking.co/wiki/index.php/File:TrySquare%20Step%20InsertingDowelPins.jpg|alt=Image of dowels inserted into try plane joing|none|thumb|200x200px|Dowels inserted and ready for the excess to be cut off the example try-square]] *Step 8: Re-check the inside angle to ensure it is square, and check if the outside of the blade and handle are true (and carefully plane the relevant edges if not) *Step 9: Soften each of the edges of the square by running the block plane over them at a skewed angle to break the arris (see the [[Arrising]] technique for more detail) * === Finished Examples: === Share an image of your try square and help others on their [https://subversivewoodworking.co/wiki/index.php/Journeys Journeys][[File:Example TryPlane Teq 2021.jpg|alt=Image of an example wooden try plane by Tariq, 2021|thumb|400x400px|Example of wooden try plane by [https://subversivewoodworking.co/wiki/index.php/User:Tariq Tariq], 2021|none]] === Further resources: === - [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cxNpwOiF5zQ Wood by Wright instructional video] - [https://www.instructables.com/Wooden-Try-Square/ Instructables step-by-step written guide] - [https://www.craftsmanspace.com/free-projects/try-square-plan.html Craftsmanspace step-by-step written guide with diagrams] 2b44f34682d83d498ccbcd813f0bdeb66c22c87c 138 133 2022-03-20T09:29:31Z Tariq 3 wikitext text/x-wiki This project is part of [[The Starter Toolbox]] journey. A try square is used for marking and checking 90° angles on pieces of wood. The ''square'' in the name refers to the 90° angle. To ''try'' a piece of wood is to check if the edges and faces are straight, flat, and square to one another. A try square is made of two key parts fixed together at 90° to form an 'L' shape. [[File:ExplodedTrySquare.png|thumb|Exploded image of wooden try square|390x390px]] === Key Terms === * Handle (also called the 'stock' or the 'post') * Blade (also called the 'beam' or 'tongue' or 'straight edge') *Notch (cut into handle for the blade to fit into) * Inside corner of square (90 degrees) * Outside of square * Pins (dowel or a piece of equivalent round wooden stock) === Materials === *Two different pieces of prepared wood - a thicker piece for the handle and a thinner one for the blade. *Glue (slow-setting, e.g., PVA) *Dowel pins === Tools === *Pencil *Marking knife *Marking gauge *Tenon saw (a medium/large rip saw) * Carcass saw (a medium crosscut saw) *Coping saw (optional) * Chisel (same size as notch) * Block plane *Smoothing plane *Hand drill *Try square (optional === Techniques === * [[Bridle Joint]] * [[Fine Crosscut]] * [[Face Planing]] *[[Arrising]] === Steps === * Step 1: Decide on the size of the try square (it can be useful to have multiple try squares of different sizes). * Step 2: Mark the lengths required on each piece of wood (the handle and blade) using the marking knife and pencil *Step 3: Cut handle and blade to their respective lengths using a [[Fine Crosscut]][[File:TrySquare handle blade layout.jpg|thumb|Example of a handle and blade cut to a selected size: Handle: 3/4" thick x 2" wide x 5" long; Blade: 1/4" thick x 2.5" wide x 10" long.|alt=Example of a handle and blade cut to a selected size: Handle: 3/4" thick x 2" wide x 5" long; Blade: 1/4" thick x 2.5" wide x 10" long.|200x200px|none]] *Step 4: Prepare the handle and blade for the [[Bridle Joint]]: ** 4a: Measure the notch for the bridle joint in the end of the handle (using the marking gauge to measure and mark two parallel lines into the end of the handle to the depth of 3/4th that of the blade width, and the same width as the thickness of the blade).[[File:TryPlace marking the notch.jpg|thumb|Example of a the notch marked out ready to cut in the end of a handle |200x200px|none]] ** 4b: Use the Tenon saw to cut each of the parallel lines previously marked into the handle. **4c: Using the Coping saw, cut just above the base of the middle section and remove the waste to leave the two forks of the notch. ** 4d: True the floor of the notch with the chisel (by carefully removing any remaining waste section with the chisel so that the floor of the notch is flat). ** **4e: Carefully test if the blade matches the size of the notch and, if needed, [[Face Planing|Face Plane]] the end of the blade until it can slip into the notch without bending the two forks.[[File:TrySquare V1 Teq JoinImage.jpg|alt=Image of wooden try plane angled to show the join|thumb|200x200px|Example of first-attempt of the join|none]] * Step 5: Join the handle and the blade by gluing the planed-end of the blade into the notch prepared in the handle (and immediately do step 6) *Step 6: ''Before the glue sets'', manipulate the blade and handle so that the inside corner of the square is a true 90 degree. If an existing square is not available, check if the square has a 90° angle by directly comparing the squared line drawn by the try square ''against itself''. To do this, work from a perfectly flat edge, and if there is no discrepancy between the squared line drawn with the try square used one way and then flipped over you have a perfect 90° angle. [[File:Testing a try square for accuracy commons.wikimedia.png|link=https://subversivewoodworking.co/wiki/index.php/File:Testing%20a%20try%20square%20for%20accuracy%20commons.wikimedia.png|alt=Image of testing a square for accuracy by working from a perfectly flat edge, and once there is no discrepancy between the squared line drawn with the try square used one way and then flipped over you have a perfect 90° angle|none|thumb|200x200px]] *Step 7: After the glue sets, insert dowel pins where the blade and handle intersect. ** 7a: Drill holes for the dowel pins **7b: Insert prepared dowel pins into the drilled hole **7c: Saw off the excess dowel from the pins **7d: Plane the pins smooth[[File:TrySquare Step InsertingDowelPins.jpg|link=https://subversivewoodworking.co/wiki/index.php/File:TrySquare%20Step%20InsertingDowelPins.jpg|alt=Image of dowels inserted into try plane joing|none|thumb|200x200px|Dowels inserted and ready for the excess to be cut off the example try-square]] *Step 8: Re-check the inside angle to ensure it is square, and check if the outside of the blade and handle are true (and carefully plane the relevant edges if not) *Step 9: Soften each of the edges of the square by running the block plane over them at a skewed angle to break the arris (see the [[Arrising]] technique for more detail) *Step 10: Wipe on boiled linseed oil (or equivalent) to finish. * === Finished Examples: === Share an image of your try square and help others on their [https://subversivewoodworking.co/wiki/index.php/Journeys Journeys][[File:Example TryPlane Teq 2021.jpg|alt=Image of an example wooden try plane by Tariq, 2021|thumb|400x400px|Example of wooden try plane by [https://subversivewoodworking.co/wiki/index.php/User:Tariq Tariq], 2021|none]] === Further resources: === - [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cxNpwOiF5zQ Wood by Wright instructional video] - [https://www.instructables.com/Wooden-Try-Square/ Instructables step-by-step written guide] - [https://www.craftsmanspace.com/free-projects/try-square-plan.html Craftsmanspace step-by-step written guide with diagrams] 20d343a22b4236201695a28d7c158ab2868bb1bc 6 32 104 2021-09-11T13:28:06Z Tariq 3 wikitext text/x-wiki Example of a first-attempt at the bridle joint db3052a2ad5846469c7f1ccf854b3efa02175a7c 6 33 106 2021-09-12T03:45:25Z Tariq 3 wikitext text/x-wiki Image of a test for square for a try square from https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Testing_a_try_square_for_accuracy.png 56830d21f1ad10e76bb41bf6d5ffaea7607d5f34 6 34 107 2021-09-12T03:57:55Z Tariq 3 wikitext text/x-wiki Image of dowels inserted and ready for the excess to be cut off the example try-square 5c0177c05a8c9f990e76ac77fbefb63cc3ff35a2 6 35 108 2021-09-12T04:02:52Z Tariq 3 wikitext text/x-wiki Image of an incomplete wooden try-square held against a metal square 5bd6318f929607023237098bebae777db082dbb1 0 2 116 76 2021-09-12T06:23:58Z Tariq 3 Add resource to technical terms link wikitext text/x-wiki === Stock Preparation === * Understanding Grain *[[Face Planing]] * [[Edge Planing]] * [[Reference Marks]] * [[Four-Square Stock]] * [[Shooting End-Grain]] * Wood Movement === Sawing === * [[Course Crosscut]] * Medium Crosscut * [[Fine Crosscut]] * Rip Cut * Re-saw === Carcass Joinery === * End-Grain Rebate (Chiselled) * Rebate (Planed) * Groove * [[Dado]] * Stopped Dado * Sliding Dovetail * Stopped Sliding Dovetail * Tapered Sliding Dovetail * Through Dovetail * Half-Blind Dovetail === Frame Joinery === * Mortise and Tenon * Through Tenon * [[Bridle Joint]] === Fastening === * [[Nailing with Cut Nails]] * [[Clinched Nailing]] * Skew Nailing * Screwing === Finishing === * [[Arrising]] *[[Linseed Oil Finish]] === Further Resources === * [https://www.beenatreewood.com/woodworking-23-technical-terms-used-in-woodwork/ A list of technical terms used in woodworking on the Been a Tree Blog] d3b95b30e8b2a472fb47634725000c6fbd64b0a2 132 116 2022-03-20T07:44:12Z Tariq 3 wikitext text/x-wiki === Stock Preparation === * Understanding Grain *[[Face Planing]] * [[Edge Planing]] * [[Reference Marks]] * [[Four-Square Stock]] * [[Shooting End-Grain]] * Wood Movement === Sawing === * [[Course Crosscut]] * Medium Crosscut * [[Fine Crosscut]] * [[Rip Cut]] * Re-saw === Carcass Joinery === * End-Grain Rebate (Chiselled) * Rebate (Planed) * Groove * [[Dado]] * Stopped Dado * Sliding Dovetail * Stopped Sliding Dovetail * Tapered Sliding Dovetail * Through Dovetail * Half-Blind Dovetail === Frame Joinery === * Mortise and Tenon * Through Tenon * [[Bridle Joint]] === Fastening === * [[Nailing with Cut Nails]] * [[Clinched Nailing]] * Skew Nailing * Screwing === Finishing === * [[Arrising]] *[[Linseed Oil Finish]] === Further Resources === * [https://www.beenatreewood.com/woodworking-23-technical-terms-used-in-woodwork/ A list of technical terms used in woodworking on the Been a Tree Blog] e90f355f5694032335404b4dd4b8cfc244da995a 140 132 2022-03-20T09:42:32Z Tariq 3 wikitext text/x-wiki === Stock Preparation === * Understanding Grain *[[Face Planing]] * [[Edge Planing]] * [[Reference Marks]] * [[Four-Square Stock]] * [[Shooting End-Grain]] * Wood Movement === Sawing === * [[Course Crosscut]] * Medium Crosscut * [[Fine Crosscut]] * [[Rip Cut]] * Re-saw === Carcass Joinery === * End-Grain Rebate (Chiselled) * Rebate (Planed) * Groove * [[Dado]] * Stopped Dado * Sliding Dovetail * Stopped Sliding Dovetail * Tapered Sliding Dovetail * Through Dovetail * Half-Blind Dovetail === Frame Joinery === * Mortise and Tenon * Through Tenon * [[Bridle Joint]] === Fastening === * [[Nailing with Cut Nails]] * [[Clinched Nailing]] * Skew Nailing * Screwing *Boring *[[Drilling]] === Finishing === * [[Arrising]] *Sanding *Smooth Planing *[[Linseed Oil Finish]] === Further Resources === * List of [[tools]] *[https://www.beenatreewood.com/woodworking-23-technical-terms-used-in-woodwork/ A list of technical terms used in woodworking on the Been a Tree Blog] e4284f181810185cad743b3c00e1bda74a0b3d75 145 140 2022-04-26T09:25:44Z Tariq 3 wikitext text/x-wiki === Stock Preparation === * Understanding Grain *[[Face Planing]] * [[Edge Planing]] * [[Reference Marks]] * [[Four-Square Stock]] * [[Shooting End-Grain]] * Wood Movement === Sawing === * [[Course Crosscut]] * Medium Crosscut * [[Fine Crosscut]] * [[Rip Cut]] * Re-saw === Carcass Joinery === * End-Grain Rebate (Chiselled) * [[Rebate (Planed)]] * Groove * [[Dado]] * Stopped Dado * Sliding Dovetail * Stopped Sliding Dovetail * Tapered Sliding Dovetail * Through Dovetail * Half-Blind Dovetail === Frame Joinery === * Mortise and Tenon * Through Tenon * [[Bridle Joint]] === Fastening === * [[Nailing with Cut Nails]] * [[Clinched Nailing]] * Skew Nailing * Screwing *Boring *[[Drilling]] === Finishing === * [[Arrising]] *Sanding *Smooth Planing *[[Linseed Oil Finish]] === Further Resources === * List of [[tools]] *[https://www.beenatreewood.com/woodworking-23-technical-terms-used-in-woodwork/ A list of technical terms used in woodworking on the Been a Tree Blog] 240daf449c926b2931476768ee8ff3431f02fe2c 0 36 117 2021-09-12T06:28:03Z Tariq 3 Started page with brief description wikitext text/x-wiki A term for the process of softening the edge of wood by running a plane over them at a skewed angle to break the arris (also referred to as 'breaking the arris' and 'softening the edges'). [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PMFRV98jBZk Tips for breaking edges] by the Woodworkers Journal dad39f2d9d1d16521a8b8ec6ada517d89084ebf5 120 117 2021-09-12T06:31:37Z Tariq 3 wikitext text/x-wiki A term for the process of softening the edge of wood by running a plane over them at a skewed angle to break the arris (also referred to as 'breaking the arris', 'softening the edges', and variations thereof). [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PMFRV98jBZk Tips for breaking edges] by the Woodworkers Journal 1620b1aeb7deba1c3f1eb073afd23373289b53d7 123 120 2021-09-12T06:54:52Z Tariq 3 wikitext text/x-wiki Arrising (to arris the edge) means to break or remove the arris (the sharp outside edge) of the timber. In hand woodworking, this process of softening the edge of wood can be done by running a plane over them at a skewed angle to break the arris edge or by using sandpaper and sandpaper block. The aris is usually removed to prevent the edge from damaging items that may rub up against and help prevent the paint, varnish, oil or sealer from splitting along the sharp edge. The process of arrising is also called breaking the arris', 'softening the edges', and variations thereof. [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PMFRV98jBZk Tips for breaking edges] by the Woodworkers Journal 94e4f6effe140b6ef2373cfd5e2d13f395b4e066 0 37 121 2021-09-12T06:39:45Z Tariq 3 Started page with brief description wikitext text/x-wiki A bridle joint is comprised of a tenon that has been cut on the end of one member and a mortise is cut into the other to accept it. ==== Resources: ==== [[wikipedia:Bridle_joint|Wiki on what is a bridle joint?]] ==== Examples in context: ==== [[Wooden Try Square]] project. 99923f304b98930c7885b04f2fe4bdf3385573cd 122 121 2021-09-12T06:43:43Z Tariq 3 wikitext text/x-wiki A bridle joint is comprised of a tenon that has been cut on the end of one member and a mortise is cut into the other to accept it. ==== Resources: ==== [[wikipedia:Bridle_joint|Wiki on what is a bridle joint?]] ==== Examples in context: ==== [[Wooden Try Square]] project. 182a27f7299b281d72b7f16563f3fd5a80d3efb1 0 12 125 83 2022-03-15T06:12:22Z Tariq 3 Changed link for 'commoning' to (in progress) concept summary page wikitext text/x-wiki <big>Welcome to Subversive Woodworking. This is an avenue for learning accessible woodworking techniques, as well as an invitation to participate in co-creating an inclusive process of [https://hackmd.io/8B29jq83SG-n5p23Tt_ljA commoning] that explicitly contributes to the political project of encouraging us to value the labour of our own hands over purchased commodities.</big> [[File:Subversive Woodworking Logo.png|frameless|center]]<big>Subversive Woodworking has several ways to help you [[Getting Started|Get Started]] with hand-tool woodworking, including a one-day class to see if you like it, and an ongoing supportive group, both currently in Brunswick, VIC, Australia.</big><blockquote> ''"With the gross failure of the intellectual class, it has fallen to the craftsman to expose the hidden power inequities of society. Subversive woodworking has to take the lead, helping people make a choice between mindless consumerism and conscious craftsmanship."'' Roy Underhill of The Woodwright's Shop</blockquote>'''<big>[https://mailchi.mp/6885f65191d4/subversive-woodworking Click here to sign up for updates on our volunteer-run classes]</big>''' == Our Values == [[File:Hand on bench.jpg|right|325x325px]] Subversive Woodworking takes an explicit position on values. We don't think that these values are needed for all woodworking, but there are plenty of other woodworking groups around if these don't resonate with you. ==== The Journey Matters ==== How an item gets made is part of it's beauty. Knowing that something is crafted with love and care by someone who enjoys the work and avoids exploitation and oppression can add to it's beauty. ==== Commoning over Self-Reliance ==== Making things isn't an individual act, we live in a society and we all benefit from helping each other as we go. In particular we aren't just building a static "commons", like a shared workshop, we are actively engaged in the process of "[https://hackmd.io/8B29jq83SG-n5p23Tt_ljA commoning]" which is a messy, human and ever-changing co-creation of shared resources, spaces, relationships and ways of living. ==== Inclusion and Accessibility ==== Experiencing the joy of making things should be available to everyone, and so we strive to create an inclusive environment by reducing barriers to participation. This includes explicitly addressing financial accessibility in recognition of the way that economic barriers to starting a new craft can disproportionately exclude people from groups that are marginalised within mainstream society (due to categorisations such as race, gender, sexuality, and ability). ==== Subverting Consumerism ==== When we buy mass-produced commodities, we are supporting a system that treats all labour as an interchangeable resource able to be exploited by those few owning the means of production. We promote joy in the process of creation in order to change our relationship with consumption.<blockquote>''“I want to live in a society where people are intoxicated with the joy of making things.”'' William S Coperthwaite</blockquote> == Our Craft == [[File:Moulding for chest.jpg|left|334x334px]] Our goal is to make things. Things which fill us with a sense of beauty and pride and which we enjoy having in our lives, gifting to our loved ones, or trading in our communities. ==== Projects, Tools and Techniques ==== You can make anything you want, but to get you started this site includes a library of [[Projects]]. Each woodworking project is made up of [[Techniques]] which take practice to master, and require specific [[Tools]]. You can follow your own path through these, or learn using our curated [[Journeys]] which take you through some foundational techniques and projects. ==== Entry Points ==== If you're new to woodwork, you may want to read about [[Getting Started]]. 191b418240b88e6c9a2a15ab61c8a1c4864e5de4 0 5 126 16 2022-03-20T03:39:30Z Tariq 3 wikitext text/x-wiki == Joinery & Furniture Making == === Foundational Projects === * [[Chopping Board]] *[[Marking Knife]] *[[Wooden Try Square]] *[[Wooden Sliding Bevel]] 74ddab3e486e8017f394f3582f12e109ef4f3251 0 19 127 59 2022-03-20T03:45:04Z Tariq 3 wikitext text/x-wiki [[File:Mikov-marking-knife-taylor-toolworks.png|alt=A spear-pointed marking knife blade, fitted between two pieces of wood to provide a handle.|thumb|Spear pointed Mikov marking knife with wooden handle, example provided by Taylor Toolworks]]This project is part of [[The Starter Toolbox]] journey. === Key Terms === === Techniques === === Tools & Materials === * Blade - For example [https://taytools.com/products/mikov-unhandled-thin-blade-dual-bevel-marking-knife-kit-with-finger-indents-0-060-thick-blade?pr_prod_strat=copurchase&pr_rec_pid=4483038117975&pr_ref_pid=4623287550039&pr_seq=uniform this Mikov blade.] * Brass Pins * Two-part epoxy glue * Wood of your choice === Steps === === Finished Examples === === Further Resources === 754ed313aa142a29b47e2b6cb479e42e7a5bb3e9 130 127 2022-03-20T04:58:41Z Tariq 3 wikitext text/x-wiki [[File:Mikov-marking-knife-taylor-toolworks.png|alt=A spear-pointed marking knife blade, fitted between two pieces of wood to provide a handle.|thumb|Spear pointed Mikov marking knife with wooden handle, example provided by Taylor Toolworks]]This project is part of [[The Starter Toolbox]] journey. === Key Terms === * Handle * Pins (a piece of round stock in brass, steel, or equivalent). === Techniques === === Tools & Materials === * Blade - For example [https://taytools.com/products/mikov-unhandled-thin-blade-dual-bevel-marking-knife-kit-with-finger-indents-0-060-thick-blade?pr_prod_strat=copurchase&pr_rec_pid=4483038117975&pr_ref_pid=4623287550039&pr_seq=uniform this Mikov blade.] * Brass Pins * Two-part epoxy glue * Wood of your choice === Steps === === Finished Examples === === Further Resources === * Wood By Wright, [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WUXtkh5msBg How to Make a Marking Knife Video] * Lee Valley, [https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/discover/woodworking-projects/2020/may/make-your-own-marking-knife Make Your Own Marking Knife] written instructions with example plan. * Instructables Workshop [https://www.instructables.com/Making-a-Woodworking-Marking-Knife/ Making a Woodworking Marking Knife] written step-by-step. 9d1109553097d9124cdf2233b5c7ea2a5d203561 131 130 2022-03-20T05:31:41Z Tariq 3 wikitext text/x-wiki [[File:Mikov-marking-knife-taylor-toolworks.png|alt=A spear-pointed marking knife blade, fitted between two pieces of wood to provide a handle.|thumb|Spear pointed Mikov marking knife with wooden handle, example provided by Taylor Toolworks]]This project is part of [[The Starter Toolbox]] journey. A marking knife is used to produce crisp, well-defined marks on wood when laying out precision joinery or transferring measurements. === Key Terms === * Handle * Scale for inside face (of handle) * Scale for outside face (of handle) * Blade (also called 'knife') * Pins (brass, or equivalent round piece of metal) === Techniques === * === Tools & Materials === * Blade (for example [https://taytools.com/products/mikov-unhandled-thin-blade-dual-bevel-marking-knife-kit-with-finger-indents-0-060-thick-blade?pr_prod_strat=copurchase&pr_rec_pid=4483038117975&pr_ref_pid=4623287550039&pr_seq=uniform this stainless steel Mikov blade], with dimensions: length 5-7/8”, thickness: 0.060”, and width: 1/2”) * Pins (often supplied with the blade) * Hardwood from scrap bin cut into paired strips (grain running in the same direction). Example dimensions: 1/4" x 1/2" x 5" *Two-part epoxy glue === Steps === === Finished Examples === === Further Resources === * [https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0091/2169/3747/files/Adding_Scales_to_a_Mikov_Marking_Knife.pdf?v=1606838986 PDF of handle-making instructions to go with the Mikov blade] *Wood By Wright, [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WUXtkh5msBg How to Make a Marking Knife Video] * Lee Valley, [https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/discover/woodworking-projects/2020/may/make-your-own-marking-knife Make Your Own Marking Knife] written instructions with example plan. * Instructables Workshop [https://www.instructables.com/Making-a-Woodworking-Marking-Knife/ Making a Woodworking Marking Knife] written step-by-step 0d90904ee3c72f26bfd00ceb822ba3120b78db18 136 131 2022-03-20T08:26:32Z Tariq 3 Tools wikitext text/x-wiki [[File:Mikov-marking-knife-taylor-toolworks.png|alt=A spear-pointed marking knife blade, fitted between two pieces of wood to provide a handle.|thumb|Spear pointed Mikov marking knife with wooden handle, example provided by Taylor Toolworks]]This project is part of [[The Starter Toolbox]] journey. A marking knife is used to produce crisp, well-defined marks on wood when laying out precision joinery or transferring measurements. === Key Terms === * Stock (wooden stock, for the handle) * Scales (the cut pieces of wood used for each face of the handle) * Knife blade * Pins (brass, or equivalent round piece of metal) * === Materials === * Blade (for example [https://taytools.com/products/mikov-unhandled-thin-blade-dual-bevel-marking-knife-kit-with-finger-indents-0-060-thick-blade?pr_prod_strat=copurchase&pr_rec_pid=4483038117975&pr_ref_pid=4623287550039&pr_seq=uniform this stainless steel Mikov blade], with dimensions: length 5-7/8”, thickness: 0.060”, and width: 1/2”) * Pins (often supplied with the blade) * Hardwood from scrap bin cut into paired strips (grain running in the same direction). Example dimensions: 1/4" x 1/2" x 5" *Two-part epoxy glue === Tools === * Saw (rip) * Drill * Sandpaper === Techniques === * [[Rip Cut]] * [[Drilling]] * Sanding === Steps === === Finished Examples === === Further Resources === * [https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0091/2169/3747/files/Adding_Scales_to_a_Mikov_Marking_Knife.pdf?v=1606838986 PDF of handle-making instructions to go with the Mikov blade] *Wood By Wright, [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WUXtkh5msBg How to Make a Marking Knife Video] * Lee Valley, [https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/discover/woodworking-projects/2020/may/make-your-own-marking-knife Make Your Own Marking Knife] written instructions with example plan. * Instructables Workshop [https://www.instructables.com/Making-a-Woodworking-Marking-Knife/ Making a Woodworking Marking Knife] written step-by-step 42fd43a7c15dcfcf39df4f7f6cf5153ae75e522c 137 136 2022-03-20T09:18:44Z Tariq 3 Steps (day 1) wikitext text/x-wiki [[File:Mikov-marking-knife-taylor-toolworks.png|alt=A spear-pointed marking knife blade, fitted between two pieces of wood to provide a handle.|thumb|Spear pointed Mikov marking knife with wooden handle, example provided by Taylor Toolworks]]This project is part of [[The Starter Toolbox]] journey. A marking knife is used to produce crisp, well-defined marks on wood when laying out precision joinery or transferring measurements. === Key Terms === * Stock (wooden stock, for the handle) * Scales (the cut pieces of wood used for each face of the handle) * Knife blade * Pins (brass, or equivalent round piece of metal) * === Materials === * Blade blank (for example [https://taytools.com/products/mikov-unhandled-thin-blade-dual-bevel-marking-knife-kit-with-finger-indents-0-060-thick-blade?pr_prod_strat=copurchase&pr_rec_pid=4483038117975&pr_ref_pid=4623287550039&pr_seq=uniform this stainless steel Mikov blade], with dimensions: length 15 - 22mm; thickness: 1.52mm; and width: 12.7mm) * Pins (often supplied with the blade) * Hardwood from scrap bin cut into paired strips (grain running in the same direction). *Sticky tape (double sided) *Two-part epoxy glue *Denatured alcohol (if using oily wood) === Tools === * Saw (rip) * Drill * Sandpaper *Clamps *Hacksaw === Techniques === * [[Rip Cut]] * [[Drilling]] * Sanding === Steps === Day 1: * Step 1: Select a piece of scrap hardwood for the handle stock (suggested size: 14mm wide and 100mm long) * Step 2: Determine the best thickness for the scales of the handle (example thickness: 4.24mm. Guide: subtract the thickness of your blade from 10mm and divide by 2). * Step 3: Saw the stock into two pieces (for the handle scales) * Step 4 (optional): on the outside face of each scale, bevel one end so that it tapers towards where the knife will fit between the two scales. * Step 5: Apply double-sided sticky tape to the inside face of both scales * Step 6: Stick one scale to the blade blank and center, allowing wood to overhang both sides and the end of the blade. * Step 7: Drill through the hole in the blank and first wood scale (using a backer board to prevent blow out). * Step 8: Stick the other scale to the blank being careful to line up at the knife-blade end. * Step 9: Drill through the existing hole in the wood scale and then through the entire assembly. * Step 10: Separate the pieces and mark each of them to ensure proper reassembly. * Step 11: If needed, wipe down each glue surface to remove surface oils (with denatured alcohol) * Step 11: Using slow drying epoxy, glue and '''clamp''' the assembly together. * Step 13: Before the glue sets, insert the pins through the holes. * Step 14: Clean any excess epoxy from the blade before it dries. * Step 15: Let blank fully dry for 24 hours. Day 2: * Step 16: Once the glue is fully dry, use a hack saw trim the excess off the brass pins. * Step 17: === Finished Examples === === Further Resources === * [https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0091/2169/3747/files/Adding_Scales_to_a_Mikov_Marking_Knife.pdf?v=1606838986 PDF of handle-making instructions to go with the Mikov blade] *Wood By Wright, [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WUXtkh5msBg How to Make a Marking Knife Video] * Lee Valley, [https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/discover/woodworking-projects/2020/may/make-your-own-marking-knife Make Your Own Marking Knife] written instructions with example plan. * Instructables Workshop [https://www.instructables.com/Making-a-Woodworking-Marking-Knife/ Making a Woodworking Marking Knife] written step-by-step ca1df8d145ccd3d85dd096f82b7f8f160c081b21 139 137 2022-03-20T09:41:43Z Tariq 3 Steps (day 2) wikitext text/x-wiki [[File:Mikov-marking-knife-taylor-toolworks.png|alt=A spear-pointed marking knife blade, fitted between two pieces of wood to provide a handle.|thumb|Spear pointed Mikov marking knife with wooden handle, example provided by Taylor Toolworks]]This project is part of [[The Starter Toolbox]] journey. A marking knife is used to produce crisp, well-defined marks on wood when laying out precision joinery or transferring measurements. === Key Terms === * Stock (wooden stock, for the handle) * Scales (the cut pieces of wood used for each face of the handle) * Knife blade * Pins (brass, or equivalent round piece of metal) * === Materials === * Blade blank (for example [https://taytools.com/products/mikov-unhandled-thin-blade-dual-bevel-marking-knife-kit-with-finger-indents-0-060-thick-blade?pr_prod_strat=copurchase&pr_rec_pid=4483038117975&pr_ref_pid=4623287550039&pr_seq=uniform this stainless steel Mikov blade], with dimensions: length 15 - 22mm; thickness: 1.52mm; and width: 12.7mm) * Pins (often supplied with the blade) * Hardwood from scrap bin cut into paired strips (grain running in the same direction). *Sticky tape (double sided) *Two-part epoxy glue *Denatured alcohol (if using oily wood) === Tools === * Saw (rip) * Drill * Sandpaper *Clamps *Hacksaw === Techniques === * [[Rip Cut]] * [[Drilling]] * Sanding *[[Arrising]] === Steps === Day 1: * Step 1: Select a piece of scrap hardwood for the handle stock (suggested size: 14mm wide and 100mm long) * Step 2: Determine the best thickness for the scales of the handle (example thickness: 4.24mm. Guide: subtract the thickness of your blade from 10mm and divide by 2). * Step 3: Saw the stock into two pieces (for the handle scales) *Step 4: Sand the front face of each scale. Optionally: on the outside face of each scale, soften one end so that it tapers towards where the knife will fit between the two scales. (Note: once the scales are attached you wont have access to the front of the scales so can not do this later). * Step 5: Apply double-sided sticky tape to the inside face of both scales * Step 6: Stick one scale to the blade blank and center, allowing wood to overhang both sides and the end of the blade. * Step 7: Drill through the hole in the blank and first wood scale (using a backer board to prevent blow out). * Step 8: Stick the other scale to the blank being careful to line up at the knife-blade end. * Step 9: Drill through the existing hole in the wood scale and then through the entire assembly. * Step 10: Separate the pieces and mark each of them to ensure proper reassembly. * Step 11: If needed, wipe down each glue surface to remove surface oils (with denatured alcohol) * Step 11: Using slow drying epoxy, glue and '''clamp''' the assembly together. * Step 13: Before the glue sets, insert the pins through the holes. * Step 14: Clean any excess epoxy from the blade before it dries. * Step 15: Let blank fully dry for 24 hours. Day 2: * Step 16: Once the glue is fully dry, use a hack saw trim the excess off the brass pins. * Step 17: Sand down the sides and faces of the handle. *Step 18: Soften all sharp corners as desired (arising). *Step 19: Wipe on boiled linseed oil (or equivalent) to finish. === Finished Examples === === Further Resources === * [https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0091/2169/3747/files/Adding_Scales_to_a_Mikov_Marking_Knife.pdf?v=1606838986 PDF of handle-making instructions to go with the Mikov blade] using power tools. *Wood By Wright, [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WUXtkh5msBg How to make a marking knife from scratch (video)] * Lee Valley, [https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/discover/woodworking-projects/2020/may/make-your-own-marking-knife Make your own marking knife from a Stanley blade] written instructions, with example plan. * Instructables Workshop [https://www.instructables.com/Making-a-Woodworking-Marking-Knife/ Making a Woodworking Marking Knife from found resources] written step-by-step d02e8faaeb7b8c303b477b5594b49acf14cd34f9 141 139 2022-03-20T10:12:19Z Tariq 3 wikitext text/x-wiki [[File:Mikov-marking-knife-taylor-toolworks.png|alt=A spear-pointed marking knife blade, fitted between two pieces of wood to provide a handle.|thumb|Spear pointed Mikov marking knife with wooden handle, example provided by Taylor Toolworks]]This project is part of [[The Starter Toolbox]] journey. A marking knife is used to produce crisp, well-defined marks on wood when laying out precision joinery or transferring measurements. === Key Terms === * Stock (wooden stock, for the handle) * Scales (the cut pieces of wood used for each face of the handle) * Knife blade * Pins (brass, or equivalent round piece of metal) * === Materials === * Blade blank (for example [https://taytools.com/products/mikov-unhandled-thin-blade-dual-bevel-marking-knife-kit-with-finger-indents-0-060-thick-blade?pr_prod_strat=copurchase&pr_rec_pid=4483038117975&pr_ref_pid=4623287550039&pr_seq=uniform this stainless steel Mikov blade], with dimensions: length 15 - 22mm; thickness: 1.52mm; and width: 12.7mm) * Pins (often supplied with the blade) * Hardwood (one small piece of scrap wood that can be cut into matched pieces lengthwise, with the grain running in the same direction. Example size: 14mm wide and 100mm long). *Sticky tape (double sided) *Two-part epoxy glue *Denatured alcohol (if using oily wood) === Tools === * Saw (rip) * Drill * Sandpaper *Clamps *Hacksaw === Techniques === * [[Rip Cut]] * [[Drilling]] * Sanding *[[Arrising]] === Steps === Day 1: * Step 1: Select a piece of scrap hardwood for the handle stock (example size: 14mm wide and 100mm long) * Step 2: Determine the best thickness for the scales of the handle (example thickness: 4.24mm. Guide: subtract the thickness of your blade from 10mm and divide by 2). * Step 3: Saw the stock into two pieces (for the handle scales) *Step 4: Sand the front face of each scale. Optionally: on the outside face of each scale, soften one end so that it tapers towards where the knife will fit between the two scales. (Note: once the scales are attached you wont have access to the front of the scales so can not do this later). * Step 5: Apply double-sided sticky tape to the inside face of both scales * Step 6: Stick one scale to the blade blank and center, allowing wood to overhang both sides and the end of the blade. * Step 7: Drill through the hole in the blank and first wood scale (using a backer board to prevent blow out). * Step 8: Stick the other scale to the blank being careful to line up at the knife-blade end. * Step 9: Drill through the existing hole in the wood scale and then through the entire assembly. * Step 10: Separate the pieces and mark each of them to ensure proper reassembly. * Step 11: If needed, wipe down each glue surface to remove surface oils (with denatured alcohol) * Step 11: Using slow drying epoxy, glue and '''clamp''' the assembly together. * Step 13: Before the glue sets, insert the pins through the holes. * Step 14: Clean any excess epoxy from the blade before it dries. * Step 15: Let blank fully dry for 24 hours. Day 2: * Step 16: Once the glue is fully dry, use a hack saw trim the excess off the brass pins. * Step 17: Sand down the sides and faces of the handle. *Step 18: Soften all sharp corners as desired (arising). *Step 19: Wipe on boiled linseed oil (or equivalent) to finish. === Finished Examples === === Further Resources === * [https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0091/2169/3747/files/Adding_Scales_to_a_Mikov_Marking_Knife.pdf?v=1606838986 PDF of handle-making instructions to go with the Mikov blade] using power tools. *Wood By Wright, [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WUXtkh5msBg How to make a marking knife from scratch (video)] * Lee Valley, [https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/discover/woodworking-projects/2020/may/make-your-own-marking-knife Make your own marking knife from a Stanley blade] written instructions, with example plan. * Instructables Workshop [https://www.instructables.com/Making-a-Woodworking-Marking-Knife/ Making a Woodworking Marking Knife from found resources] written step-by-step 109655861e6d10c3ac425e86ebd3a5e8fd6c22ca 142 141 2022-03-20T10:13:18Z Tariq 3 wikitext text/x-wiki [[File:Mikov-marking-knife-taylor-toolworks.png|alt=A spear-pointed marking knife blade, fitted between two pieces of wood to provide a handle.|thumb|Spear pointed Mikov marking knife with wooden handle, example provided by Taylor Toolworks]]This project is part of [[The Starter Toolbox]] journey. A marking knife is used to produce crisp, well-defined marks on wood when laying out precision joinery or transferring measurements. === Key Terms === * Stock (wooden stock, for the handle) * Scales (the cut pieces of wood used for each face of the handle) * Knife blade * Pins (brass, or equivalent round piece of metal) * === Materials === * Blade blank (for example [https://taytools.com/products/mikov-unhandled-thin-blade-dual-bevel-marking-knife-kit-with-finger-indents-0-060-thick-blade?pr_prod_strat=copurchase&pr_rec_pid=4483038117975&pr_ref_pid=4623287550039&pr_seq=uniform this stainless steel Mikov blade], with dimensions: length 15 - 22mm; thickness: 1.52mm; and width: 12.7mm) * Pins (often supplied with the blade) * Hardwood (one small piece of scrap wood that can be cut into matched pieces lengthwise, with the grain running in the same direction. Example size: 14mm wide and 100mm long). *Sticky tape (double sided) *Two-part epoxy glue *Denatured alcohol (if using oily wood) === Tools === * Saw (rip) * Drill * Sandpaper *Clamps *Hacksaw === Techniques === * [[Rip Cut]] * [[Drilling]] * Sanding *[[Arrising]] === Steps === Day 1: * Step 1: Select a piece of scrap hardwood for the handle stock (example size: 14mm wide and 100mm long) * Step 2: Determine the best thickness for the scales of the handle (example thickness: 4.24mm. Guide: subtract the thickness of your blade from 10mm and divide by 2). * Step 3: Saw the stock into two pieces (for the handle scales) *Step 4: Sand the front face of each scale. Optionally: on the outside face of each scale, soften one end so that it tapers towards where the knife will fit between the two scales. (Note: once the scales are attached you wont have access to the front of the scales so can not do this later). * Step 5: Apply double-sided sticky tape to the inside face of both scales * Step 6: Stick one scale to the blade blank and center, allowing wood to overhang both sides and the end of the blade. * Step 7: Drill through the hole in the blank and first wood scale (using a backer board to prevent blow out). * Step 8: Stick the other scale to the blank being careful to line up at the knife-blade end. * Step 9: Drill through the existing hole in the wood scale and then through the entire assembly. * Step 10: Separate the pieces and mark each of them to ensure proper reassembly. * Step 11: If needed, wipe down each glue surface to remove surface oils (with denatured alcohol). * Step 11: Using slow drying epoxy, glue and '''clamp''' the assembly together. * Step 13: Before the glue sets, insert the pins through the holes. * Step 14: Clean any excess epoxy from the blade before it dries. * Step 15: Let blank fully dry for 24 hours. Day 2: * Step 16: Once the glue is fully dry, use a hack saw trim the excess off the brass pins. * Step 17: Sand down the sides and faces of the handle. *Step 18: Soften all sharp corners as desired (arising). *Step 19: Wipe on boiled linseed oil (or equivalent) to finish. === Finished Examples === === Further Resources === * [https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0091/2169/3747/files/Adding_Scales_to_a_Mikov_Marking_Knife.pdf?v=1606838986 PDF of handle-making instructions to go with the Mikov blade] using power tools. *Wood By Wright, [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WUXtkh5msBg How to make a marking knife from scratch (video)] * Lee Valley, [https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/discover/woodworking-projects/2020/may/make-your-own-marking-knife Make your own marking knife from a Stanley blade] written instructions, with example plan. * Instructables Workshop [https://www.instructables.com/Making-a-Woodworking-Marking-Knife/ Making a Woodworking Marking Knife from found resources] written step-by-step 2a71f1cf0637d5529bdc00f3a5eff242de6ebf47 143 142 2022-03-20T10:21:10Z Tariq 3 Summarise steps into 4 sections wikitext text/x-wiki [[File:Mikov-marking-knife-taylor-toolworks.png|alt=A spear-pointed marking knife blade, fitted between two pieces of wood to provide a handle.|thumb|Spear pointed Mikov marking knife with wooden handle, example provided by Taylor Toolworks]]This project is part of [[The Starter Toolbox]] journey. A marking knife is used to produce crisp, well-defined marks on wood when laying out precision joinery or transferring measurements. === Key Terms === * Stock (wooden stock, for the handle) * Scales (the cut pieces of wood used for each face of the handle) * Knife blade * Pins (brass, or equivalent round piece of metal) * === Materials === * Blade blank (for example [https://taytools.com/products/mikov-unhandled-thin-blade-dual-bevel-marking-knife-kit-with-finger-indents-0-060-thick-blade?pr_prod_strat=copurchase&pr_rec_pid=4483038117975&pr_ref_pid=4623287550039&pr_seq=uniform this stainless steel Mikov blade], with dimensions: length 15 - 22mm; thickness: 1.52mm; and width: 12.7mm) * Pins (often supplied with the blade) * Hardwood (one small piece of scrap wood that can be cut into matched pieces lengthwise, with the grain running in the same direction. Example size: 14mm wide and 100mm long). *Sticky tape (double sided) *Two-part epoxy glue *Denatured alcohol (if using oily wood) === Tools === * Saw (rip) * Drill * Sandpaper *Clamps *Hacksaw === Techniques === * [[Rip Cut]] * [[Drilling]] * Sanding *[[Arrising]] === Steps === ===== Step 1: Prepare two pieces of hardwood for the handle scales ===== * Select a piece of scrap hardwood for the handle stock (example size: 14mm wide and 100mm long) * Determine the best thickness for the scales of the handle (example thickness: 4.24mm. Guide: subtract the thickness of your blade from 10mm and divide by 2). * Saw the stock into two pieces (for the handle scales) *Sand the front face of each scale. Optionally: on the outside face of each scale, soften one end so that it tapers towards where the knife will fit between the two scales. (Note: once the scales are attached you wont have access to the front of the scales so can not do this later). ===== Step 2: Drill holes for pins in both scales ===== * Apply double-sided sticky tape to the inside face of both scales * Stick one scale to the blade blank and center, allowing wood to overhang both sides and the end of the blade. * Drill through the hole in the blank and first wood scale (using a backer board to prevent blow out). * Stick the other scale to the blank being careful to line up at the knife-blade end. * Drill through the existing hole in the wood scale and then through the entire assembly. ===== Step 3: Assemble wooden scales, knife blade, and pins - glue together. ===== *Separate the pieces and mark each of them to ensure proper reassembly. * If needed, wipe down each glue surface to remove surface oils (with denatured alcohol). * Using slow drying epoxy, glue and '''clamp''' the assembly together. * Before the glue sets, insert the pins through the holes. * Clean any excess epoxy from the blade before it dries. * Let blank fully dry for 24 hours. Step 4: Finishing * Once the glue is fully dry, use a hack saw trim the excess off the brass pins. * Sand down the sides and faces of the handle. *Soften all sharp corners as desired (arising). *Wipe on boiled linseed oil (or equivalent) to finish. === Finished Examples === === Further Resources === * [https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0091/2169/3747/files/Adding_Scales_to_a_Mikov_Marking_Knife.pdf?v=1606838986 PDF of handle-making instructions to go with the Mikov blade] using power tools. *Wood By Wright, [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WUXtkh5msBg How to make a marking knife from scratch (video)] * Lee Valley, [https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/discover/woodworking-projects/2020/may/make-your-own-marking-knife Make your own marking knife from a Stanley blade] written instructions, with example plan. * Instructables Workshop [https://www.instructables.com/Making-a-Woodworking-Marking-Knife/ Making a Woodworking Marking Knife from found resources] written step-by-step b2f7fe1b7a572050be8df2380bca7901b8eae97f 144 143 2022-03-20T10:24:56Z Tariq 3 wikitext text/x-wiki [[File:Mikov-marking-knife-taylor-toolworks.png|alt=A spear-pointed marking knife blade, fitted between two pieces of wood to provide a handle.|thumb|Spear pointed Mikov marking knife with wooden handle, example provided by Taylor Toolworks]]This project is part of [[The Starter Toolbox]] journey. A marking knife is used to produce crisp, well-defined marks on wood when laying out precision joinery or transferring measurements. === Key Terms === * Stock (wooden stock, for the handle) * Scales (the cut pieces of wood used for each face of the handle) * Knife blade * Pins (brass, or equivalent round piece of metal) * === Materials === * Blade blank (for example [https://taytools.com/products/mikov-unhandled-thin-blade-dual-bevel-marking-knife-kit-with-finger-indents-0-060-thick-blade?pr_prod_strat=copurchase&pr_rec_pid=4483038117975&pr_ref_pid=4623287550039&pr_seq=uniform this stainless steel Mikov blade], with dimensions: length 15 - 22mm; thickness: 1.52mm; and width: 12.7mm) * Pins (often supplied with the blade) * Hardwood (one small piece of scrap wooden stock, that can be cut into matched pieces lengthwise, with the grain running in the same direction. Example size: 14mm wide and 100mm long). *Sticky tape (double sided) *Two-part epoxy glue *Denatured alcohol (if using oily wood) === Tools === * Saw (rip) * Drill * Sandpaper *Clamps *Hacksaw === Techniques === * [[Rip Cut]] * [[Drilling]] * Sanding *[[Arrising]] === Steps === ===== Step 1: Prepare two pieces of hardwood for the handle scales ===== * Select a piece of scrap hardwood for the handle stock (example size: 14mm wide and 100mm long) * Determine the best thickness for the scales of the handle (example thickness: 4.24mm. Guide: subtract the thickness of your blade from 10mm and divide by 2). * Saw the stock into two pieces (for the handle scales) *Sand the front face of each scale. Optionally: on the outside face of each scale, soften one end so that it tapers towards where the knife will fit between the two scales. (Note: once the scales are attached you wont have access to the front of the scales so can not do this later). ===== Step 2: Drill holes for pins in both scales ===== * Apply double-sided sticky tape to the inside face of both scales * Stick one scale to the blade blank and center, allowing wood to overhang both sides and the end of the blade. * Drill through the hole in the blank and first wood scale (using a backer board to prevent blow out). * Stick the other scale to the blank being careful to line up at the knife-blade end. * Drill through the existing hole in the wood scale and then through the entire assembly. ===== Step 3: Assemble wooden scales, knife blade, and pins - glue together. ===== *Separate the pieces and mark each of them to ensure proper reassembly. * If needed, wipe down each glue surface to remove surface oils (with denatured alcohol). * Using slow drying epoxy, glue and '''clamp''' the assembly together. * Before the glue sets, insert the pins through the holes. * Clean any excess epoxy from the blade before it dries. * Let blank fully dry for 24 hours. Step 4: Finishing * Once the glue is fully dry, use a hack saw trim the excess off the brass pins. * Sand down the sides and faces of the handle. *Soften all sharp corners as desired (arising). *Wipe on boiled linseed oil (or equivalent) to finish. === Finished Examples === === Further Resources === * [https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0091/2169/3747/files/Adding_Scales_to_a_Mikov_Marking_Knife.pdf?v=1606838986 PDF of handle-making instructions to go with the Mikov blade] using power tools. *Wood By Wright, [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WUXtkh5msBg How to make a marking knife from scratch (video)] * Lee Valley, [https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/discover/woodworking-projects/2020/may/make-your-own-marking-knife Make your own marking knife from a Stanley blade] written instructions, with example plan. * Instructables Workshop [https://www.instructables.com/Making-a-Woodworking-Marking-Knife/ Making a Woodworking Marking Knife from found resources] written step-by-step 757e6652eaabd0050a8ea4f6154f846bd9922f92 0 3 134 98 2022-03-20T08:22:27Z Tariq 3 /* Saws */ wikitext text/x-wiki === Laying out tools === * Marking knife * Marking gauge *Try square *Sliding bevel === Saws === Hand Saws * Hand Saw (Rip) * Hand Saw (Crosscut) Panel Saws * Panel Saw (Crosscut) Backsaws * Dovetail Saw (Rip) * Carcass Saw (Crosscut) * Tenon Saw (Rip) Frame Saws * Fretsaw * Coping Saw * Frame Saw (Turning, Crosscut or Rip) Specialty Saws * Flush-Cut Saw * Keyhole Saw Japanese Saws * Dozuki * Ryoba === Planes === * Fore plane * Try plane *Smoothing plane === Chisels & cutting === * * === Holding tools === * Vice * Holdfast *Surface clamp * Bench stop === Driving tools === * Mallet === Drilling & Boring === * Hand drill * Brace === Sharpening === * Sharpening stones === Systems of tool classification === * [http://handtoollist.com/#section-first-tools A list of woodworking hand tools that can be filtered by the the source-of-advice (expert /book) compiled in 2014] *[https://archive.org/details/prevocationalind00woodrich/page/n9/mode/2up A classification of hand woodworking tools from 1919 by Harry Wood and James H Smith] === Further Resources === * The Hand Tool Preservation Association of Australia (HTPAA) has [https://www.htpaa.org.au/hand-tools/australian-tools-makers a set of resources on Australian tool makers and information relating to individual tools]. aedf194f7660b408ef46908575d7e9f81d5831ee 135 134 2022-03-20T08:24:08Z Tariq 3 wikitext text/x-wiki === Laying out tools === * Marking knife * Marking gauge *Try square *Sliding bevel === Saws === Hand Saws * Hand Saw (rip) * Hand Saw (crosscut) Panel Saws * Panel Saw (crosscut) Backsaws * Dovetail Saw (rip) * Carcass Saw (crosscut) * Tenon Saw (rip) Frame Saws * Fretsaw * Coping Saw * Frame Saw (turning, crosscut or rip) Specialty Saws * Flush-Cut Saw * Keyhole Saw Japanese Saws * Dozuki * Ryoba === Planes === * Fore plane * Try plane *Smoothing plane === Chisels & cutting === * * === Holding tools === * Vice * Holdfast *Surface clamp * Bench stop === Driving tools === * Mallet === Drilling & Boring === * Hand drill * Brace === Sharpening === * Sharpening stones === Systems of tool classification === * [http://handtoollist.com/#section-first-tools A list of woodworking hand tools that can be filtered by the the source-of-advice (expert /book) compiled in 2014] *[https://archive.org/details/prevocationalind00woodrich/page/n9/mode/2up A classification of hand woodworking tools from 1919 by Harry Wood and James H Smith] === Further Resources === * The Hand Tool Preservation Association of Australia (HTPAA) has [https://www.htpaa.org.au/hand-tools/australian-tools-makers a set of resources on Australian tool makers and information relating to individual tools]. 851992c8f73f15b595ff22193157cfbecf24378e 148 135 2022-04-26T09:29:35Z Tariq 3 wikitext text/x-wiki === Laying out tools === * Marking knife * Marking gauge *Try square *Sliding bevel === Saws === Hand Saws * Hand Saw (rip) * Hand Saw (crosscut) Panel Saws * Panel Saw (crosscut) Backsaws * Dovetail Saw (rip) * Carcass Saw (crosscut) * Tenon Saw (rip) Frame Saws * Fretsaw * Coping Saw * Frame Saw (turning, crosscut or rip) Specialty Saws * Flush-Cut Saw * Keyhole Saw Japanese Saws * Dozuki * Ryoba === Planes === * Fore plane * Try plane *Smoothing plane *[[wikipedia:Rebate_plane|Rebate plane]] === Chisels & cutting === * * === Holding tools === * Vice * Holdfast *Surface clamp * Bench stop === Driving tools === * Mallet === Drilling & Boring === * Hand drill * Brace === Sharpening === * Sharpening stones === Systems of tool classification === * [http://handtoollist.com/#section-first-tools A list of woodworking hand tools that can be filtered by the the source-of-advice (expert /book) compiled in 2014] *[https://archive.org/details/prevocationalind00woodrich/page/n9/mode/2up A classification of hand woodworking tools from 1919 by Harry Wood and James H Smith] === Further Resources === * The Hand Tool Preservation Association of Australia (HTPAA) has [https://www.htpaa.org.au/hand-tools/australian-tools-makers a set of resources on Australian tool makers and information relating to individual tools]. f2db2927af1f68320d86cd78f261a45c21a7b174 149 148 2022-04-26T09:32:39Z Tariq 3 wikitext text/x-wiki === Laying out tools === * Marking knife * Marking gauge *Try square *Sliding bevel === Saws === Hand Saws * Hand Saw (rip) * Hand Saw (crosscut) Panel Saws * Panel Saw (crosscut) Backsaws * Dovetail Saw (rip) * Carcass Saw (crosscut) * Tenon Saw (rip) Frame Saws * Fretsaw * Coping Saw * Frame Saw (turning, crosscut or rip) Specialty Saws * Flush-Cut Saw * Keyhole Saw Japanese Saws * Dozuki * Ryoba === Planes === * Fore plane * Try plane *Smoothing plane *[[wikipedia:Rebate_plane|Rebate plane]] (for long grain cutting) === Chisels & cutting === * * === Holding tools === * Vice * Holdfast *Surface clamp * Bench stop === Driving tools === * Mallet === Drilling & Boring === * Hand drill * Brace === Sharpening === * Sharpening stones === Systems of tool classification === * [http://handtoollist.com/#section-first-tools A list of woodworking hand tools that can be filtered by the the source-of-advice (expert /book) compiled in 2014] *[https://archive.org/details/prevocationalind00woodrich/page/n9/mode/2up A classification of hand woodworking tools from 1919 by Harry Wood and James H Smith] === Further Resources === * The Hand Tool Preservation Association of Australia (HTPAA) has [https://www.htpaa.org.au/hand-tools/australian-tools-makers a set of resources on Australian tool makers and information relating to individual tools]. 99d754f6a1988964223d40b76d4b01472acb8af1 150 149 2022-04-26T09:41:27Z Tariq 3 wikitext text/x-wiki === Laying out tools === * Marking knife * Marking gauge *Try square *Sliding bevel === Saws === Hand Saws * Hand Saw (rip) * Hand Saw (crosscut) Panel Saws * Panel Saw (crosscut) Backsaws * Dovetail Saw (rip) * Carcass Saw (crosscut) * Tenon Saw (rip) Frame Saws * Fretsaw * Coping Saw * Frame Saw (turning, crosscut or rip) Specialty Saws * Flush-Cut Saw * Keyhole Saw Japanese Saws * Dozuki * Ryoba === Planes === * Fore plane * Try plane *Smoothing plane *[[wikipedia:Rebate_plane|Rebate plane]] === Chisels & cutting === * * === Holding tools === * Vice * Holdfast *Surface clamp * Bench stop === Driving tools === * Mallet === Drilling & Boring === * Hand drill * Brace === Sharpening === * Sharpening stones === Systems of tool classification === * [http://handtoollist.com/#section-first-tools A list of woodworking hand tools that can be filtered by the the source-of-advice (expert /book) compiled in 2014] *[https://archive.org/details/prevocationalind00woodrich/page/n9/mode/2up A classification of hand woodworking tools from 1919 by Harry Wood and James H Smith] === Further Resources === * The Hand Tool Preservation Association of Australia (HTPAA) has [https://www.htpaa.org.au/hand-tools/australian-tools-makers a set of resources on Australian tool makers and information relating to individual tools]. a2fbfdb30418e4a75de41d1d84a20566fdb1f676 0 38 146 2022-04-26T09:28:02Z Tariq 3 Created page with "A rebate is created with a rebate plane or a chisel." wikitext text/x-wiki A rebate is created with a rebate plane or a chisel. 698702224c8b9f08b5b27ea6ed854da6ab1838a4 147 146 2022-04-26T09:28:22Z Tariq 3 wikitext text/x-wiki A rebate is a groove created with a rebate plane or a chisel. ba322cdcc3d633866e751ffbd44070c02f944ba8 0 38 151 147 2022-04-26T09:43:51Z Tariq 3 Blanked the page wikitext text/x-wiki da39a3ee5e6b4b0d3255bfef95601890afd80709 0 2 152 145 2022-04-26T09:46:35Z Tariq 3 wikitext text/x-wiki === Stock Preparation === * Understanding Grain *[[Face Planing]] * [[Edge Planing]] * [[Reference Marks]] * [[Four-Square Stock]] * [[Shooting End-Grain]] * Wood Movement === Sawing === * [[Course Crosscut]] * Medium Crosscut * [[Fine Crosscut]] * [[Rip Cut]] * Re-saw === Carcass Joinery === * End-Grain Rebate * Long-Grain Rebate * Groove (cut along the grain) * [[Dado]] (cut across the grain) ** Stopped Dado * Dovetail **Sliding Dovetail ** Stopped Sliding Dovetail ** Tapered Sliding Dovetail ** Through Dovetail ** Half-Blind Dovetail === Frame Joinery === * Mortise and Tenon * Through Tenon * [[Bridle Joint]] === Fastening === * [[Nailing with Cut Nails]] * [[Clinched Nailing]] * Skew Nailing * Screwing *Boring *[[Drilling]] === Finishing === * [[Arrising]] *Sanding *Smooth Planing *[[Linseed Oil Finish]] === Further Resources === * List of [[tools]] *[https://www.beenatreewood.com/woodworking-23-technical-terms-used-in-woodwork/ A list of technical terms used in woodworking on the Been a Tree Blog] ea12e7805661aff3e86a3541ccde81e5e31a59b4 157 152 2022-04-28T03:17:40Z Tariq 3 wikitext text/x-wiki === Stock Preparation === * Understanding Grain *[[Face Planing]] * [[Edge Planing]] * [[Reference Marks]] * [[Four-Square Stock]] * [[Shooting End-Grain]] * Wood Movement === Sawing === * [[Course Crosscut]] * Medium Crosscut * [[Fine Crosscut]] * [[Rip Cut]] * Re-saw === Carcass Joinery === * End-Grain Rebate * [[Long-Grain Rebate]] * Groove (cut along the grain) * [[Dado]] (cut across the grain) ** Stopped Dado * Dovetail **Sliding Dovetail ** Stopped Sliding Dovetail ** Tapered Sliding Dovetail ** Through Dovetail ** Half-Blind Dovetail === Frame Joinery === * Mortise and Tenon * Through Tenon * [[Bridle Joint]] === Fastening === * [[Nailing with Cut Nails]] * [[Clinched Nailing]] * Skew Nailing * Screwing *Boring *[[Drilling]] === Finishing === * [[Arrising]] *Sanding *Smooth Planing *[[Linseed Oil Finish]] === Further Resources === * List of [[tools]] *[https://www.beenatreewood.com/woodworking-23-technical-terms-used-in-woodwork/ A list of technical terms used in woodworking on the Been a Tree Blog] 29ec8470ed9eb47f5b272b79fcc7bcb9364d66be 0 39 153 2022-04-26T09:54:56Z Tariq 3 Created page with "A long-grain rebate is a groove that has been cut along the grain. These can be cut using a specialised plane (e.g., rebate/rabbet planes, fillisters, shoulder planes) or a ch..." wikitext text/x-wiki A long-grain rebate is a groove that has been cut along the grain. These can be cut using a specialised plane (e.g., rebate/rabbet planes, fillisters, shoulder planes) or a chisel. === Resources === [https://blog.lostartpress.com/2022/01/04/rabbets-rabbet-planes/ Rabbets & Rabbet Planes] by Lost Arts Press [https://www.finewoodworking.com/project-guides/handplanes/three-planes-for-cutting-rabbets Three Planes for Cutting Rabbets] by Fine Woodworking 1e0ed9456accebe32db81317f48605446e80770c 154 153 2022-04-26T09:57:47Z Tariq 3 wikitext text/x-wiki A long-grain rebate is a groove that has been cut along the grain. These can be cut using a specialised plane (e.g., rebate/rabbet planes, fillisters, shoulder planes) or a chisel. === Resources === [https://blog.lostartpress.com/2022/01/04/rabbets-rabbet-planes/ Rabbets & Rabbet Planes] by fitz for Lost Arts Press (2022) [https://www.finewoodworking.com/project-guides/handplanes/three-planes-for-cutting-rabbets Three Planes for Cutting Rabbets] by By Megan Fitzpatrick for Fine Woodworking (2021) [https://www.theenglishwoodworker.com/hand-cutting-rebates-back-to-basics-approach-video/ Hand Cutting Rebates – Back To Basics Approach VIDEO] by Richard Maguire for the English Woodworker (2013) aa78190cd4ebea2631ab31084d49b2cce3d53f58 155 154 2022-04-26T10:02:27Z Tariq 3 wikitext text/x-wiki A long-grain rebate (also called rabbet) is a groove that has been cut along the grain (in order to create a ledge or groove with which to join another piece of wood). There are many ways to execute a rebate, including using a chisel or a specialised plane (e.g., rebate/rabbet planes, fillisters, shoulder planes). === Resources === [https://blog.lostartpress.com/2022/01/04/rabbets-rabbet-planes/ Rabbets & Rabbet Planes] by fitz for Lost Arts Press (2022) [https://www.finewoodworking.com/project-guides/handplanes/three-planes-for-cutting-rabbets Three Planes for Cutting Rabbets] by By Megan Fitzpatrick for Fine Woodworking (2021) [https://www.theenglishwoodworker.com/hand-cutting-rebates-back-to-basics-approach-video/ Hand Cutting Rebates – Back To Basics Approach VIDEO] by Richard Maguire for the English Woodworker (2013) [https://www.theunpluggedwoodshop.com/6-ways-to-cut-a-rabbet.html Six ways to cut a Rabbet] by Tom at the Unplugged Woodshop (2013) d4b9f83c6b6b8b966f153d05025d996fbc4557c8 156 155 2022-04-26T10:10:35Z Tariq 3 wikitext text/x-wiki A long-grain rebate (also called rabbet) is a shelf/ledge that has been cut along the grain (in order to create a ledge or groove with which to join another piece of wood). There are many ways to execute a rebate, including using a chisel or a specialised plane (e.g., rebate/rabbet planes, fillisters, shoulder planes). === Resources === [https://blog.lostartpress.com/2022/01/04/rabbets-rabbet-planes/ Rabbets & Rabbet Planes] by fitz for Lost Arts Press (2022) [https://www.finewoodworking.com/project-guides/handplanes/three-planes-for-cutting-rabbets Three Planes for Cutting Rabbets] by By Megan Fitzpatrick for Fine Woodworking (2021) [https://www.theenglishwoodworker.com/hand-cutting-rebates-back-to-basics-approach-video/ Hand Cutting Rebates – Back To Basics Approach VIDEO] by Richard Maguire for the English Woodworker (2013) [https://www.theunpluggedwoodshop.com/6-ways-to-cut-a-rabbet.html Six ways to cut a Rabbet] by Tom at the Unplugged Woodshop (2013) 242021ee7687e29153c9b122a7d435c3f04940c4 0 5 158 126 2022-04-28T03:17:53Z Tariq 3 wikitext text/x-wiki == Joinery & Furniture Making == === Foundational Projects === * [[Project storage box]] *[[Chopping Board]] *[[Marking Knife]] *[[Wooden Try Square]] *[[Wooden Sliding Bevel]] 93ddaa3b55e8352cd7b2dba045a6ae8f0f06c6d0 0 40 159 2022-04-28T03:18:20Z Tariq 3 Created page with "A project storage box is a wooden container for storing small projects while in progress, and building on from pre-cut stock can provide a good introductory project. === Ke..." wikitext text/x-wiki A project storage box is a wooden container for storing small projects while in progress, and building on from pre-cut stock can provide a good introductory project. === Key Terms === * Groove (runs along the grain) * === Materials === * 2 pieces of pre-prepared wood for the long-sides of the box (L600mm X W190mm) * 2 pieces of pre-prepared wood for the short-side of the box (L300mm X W190mm) * 1 piece or pre-prepared wood for the bottom (L600mm X W300mm) * Nails === Tools === * [[Marking Knife]] * Chisel * Hammer * [[wikipedia:Rebate_plane|Rebate plane]] * === Techniques === * Long-Grain Rebate === Steps === bb478a09a41cdf637f1ce8ab1e6ac8529e8298d8